Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Clear coating Pine tongue and groove walls

  1. #1

    Clear coating Pine tongue and groove walls

    Friends-I found this site today after looking at many other sites in an attempt to answer a couple of questions I have. I thought to toss them out and hoped to pick up any free good advice on how to tackle the below:

    1. Over the winter I built the project in the pictures and now I want to clear coat the walls and ceiling (sorry no ceiling pics).

    2. I plan to clear coat the tongue and groove pine and was curious if I should use a roller or spray gun.

    3. I plan to only sand this once and then clear coat the walls and ceiling.

    4. Recommendations on what clear coat to use for spraying?

    As you can see I am new at this hence the couple of incorrect lines comming together on the walls. But it works for me. (thank god for 1 inch trim.)I had to resize the images so you cant see the entire picture. The area I have to cover is 16*32 and is a two stories with a catherdal ceiling.

    This is a living area I built until I can save up for my cabin. Its on 22 acres in Romney West Va and I go up there on the weekends from daily grind in Vienna, Va.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC01472.JPG   DSC01474.JPG   DSC01500.JPG  
    Last edited by Roy Cooper; 06-05-2011 at 08:25 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Cape Cod, Ma.
    Posts
    1,439
    Hi Roy, Welcome

    A couple of things... If you can seal off the room spraying is definitely the way to go but, if you have never used spray equipment I would suggest practicing on some sheets of cardboard or plywood set up vertically. If you aren't carefull and get too much material on the wall you will have a lot of runs.... I would say to put 3 light coats on using this method, with a light sanding after the first coat to get rid of any nubs or raised grain.

    Rolling is probably not going to work well for you because of the vee groove. You would need a thick nap roller to get into the vee's and that would put far too much material on the flats, resulting, again in runs.

    Waterborne products are going to be the safest to work with and probably the "friendliest" as well. An HVLP or LVLP pressure feed spray set up would be the way to go if you go that route.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    3,648
    I am going with brush and use this http://www.myperfectcolor.com/en/pro...urethane-Quart
    You can spray that stuff but if your not experienced with spraying these walls are not the place to learn.
    It could be worse You could be on fire.
    Stupid hurts.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Outside the beltway
    Posts
    4,127
    Natural pine, I'd either let it go natural or a good coat of wax. Waxing is a great way to go on wood boards.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    1,047
    I, too, recommend spraying a water base clear finish - specifically Target EM6000 acrylic lacquer. See my web page on it - www.solowoodworker.com/wood/lacquer.html - I have no interest in selling it, but I have used a lot of it, and really like it.

    If you haven't sprayed before, see www.solowoodworker.com/wood/spraying.html
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •