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Thread: question about attaching raised panel sections to wall

  1. #1
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    question about attaching raised panel sections to wall

    After I glue up a handrail and strip the back door paint this week(hopefully), Im going to take off the wainscote panels(that are looking cruddy these days) off the built in window bench/seat in my den. I want to build 2 color raised panel frames, walnut frames, maple panels to match my coffee table, and redo the thing.
    The base section Im changing from lift off lid storage, to raised panels cabinet doors in front.(accessing the storage was always crud because you had to remove all the cushions, the padding, then lift out a plywood lid) I will be able to attach the frame to them directly to the 2x4 frame underneath it, or add some pieces to frame out what I need to attach the walnut frame from the back. the seatback panels, which go under the windows to the seat/bench, are against the wall. How would I attach the walnut panels to the wall without any hardware showing. I dont think liquid glue is my answer.You really dont see the back panels since they are covered with pillows, but Id like to do it right if I can.

    I didnt want to, but if I had no choice Id add a small piece of walnut round over moulding where I put the red dotted lines. Id screw the panels to the wall, then pin nail the small moulding over the screw heads. I dont know why Im stuck on this, brain freeze or something, I just want to know where Im going before I start cutting lumber.

    25 years ago on a small budget it worked for us, same cruddy house, but Id like to try to make it look better. I could always nail back some panelling if I mess up. The white floor molding was a disaster the day we put it in, tried to match all the other white base molding, but I knew its coming out so I left it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bed 489 (Medium).jpg   bed 490 (Medium).jpg  
    Last edited by allen levine; 06-09-2011 at 06:43 PM.

  2. #2
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    I've used "liquid nails" for stuff like that never had a problem.
    "Thereís a lot of work being done today that doesnít have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesnít have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
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  3. #3
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    Polyseam Seal is also another good product for that. Pop a brad or two in it until the glue sets.
    If you don't take pride in your work, life get's pretty boring.

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  4. #4
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    +1 on liquid nails.

    I did the wainscoting in my bathroom and used it along with a few brads. No problems.
    Faith, Hope & Charity

  5. #5
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    If you aare going with solid wood panels they need to float or they may split.
    You may consider building them like you would a cabinet door or passage door. then you can glue the stiles and rails to the wall allowing the panels free movement

    One thing I have done, when I couldnt nail or clamp something, was to use construction adhesive like the liquid nails or pl premium polyurethane adhesive (my choice) Apply the adhesive but leave spaces scattered around the surface to be glued then put krazy glue (you will need a couple of bottles) on the clean spots, press and hold the piece to the wall till the krazy glue sets and it will hold your pieces in place till your adhesive sets up.

  6. #6
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    the panels will float, and I guess its a liquid nails to attach to walls if no molding is used.

  7. #7
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    Use french cleats.
    I once heard that cats and women will do darn well what they please and that men and dogs would do well to accept it and just go on.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hager View Post
    Use french cleats.
    Along the same lines as a wooden French cleat, but made of aluminum, is Z-bar. It has a thinner profile, so the panel would only stand out 1/4" from the wall:

    http://www.123frame.net/cahacl.html

    We use it fairly often to install heavy mirrors and artwork. Used it on an 80 pound round mirror (in a wood frame) just yesterday.
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  9. #9
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    the panel has to sit flat against the wall. the paneling there now is nailed over the sheetrock.
    Im not really sure a french cleat would work here for zero gap.
    I think the liquid nail stuff will do with a pin right under the sill and at the bottom below the cushion line where it wont be seen. Pins to secure it until the liquid adhesive sets.

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