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Thread: Handles need work

  1. #1

    Handles need work

    Well I thought I would try again. As far as I can tell I still don't like the handles. Tonights was harder than yesterday. I think I had to much pressure with the tail stock. Had a lot of bounce to it like it went out of round. The next one or two I make I am going to try making them as 2 piece wands to see if it makes it easier. This one is a piece of Red Oak also about 15 1/2 long with a quick coat of Mylands.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    ABQ NM
    I like the looks of this wand, Dennis. I agree it sounds like you might have had too much tailstock pressure on the blank. Sometimes you can also get the whipping effect if your tools are a bit dull and you end up pushing them into the wood harder than need be. I'm sure you'll get it dialed in as you do more of them.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
    Very pretty. But, it MUST have a separate handle or there won't be any magic in it. And, there must be some tail hair of the unicorn or feather of the Phoenix bird. Don't use too much though or the power might be hard to control.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Oceanside, So. Calif. 5 mi. to the ocean
    OOhhh that's a good one!!!

    You might make a steady rest. I did a thread on it.

    Due to a comedy of errors two threads got mixed up together. You can still figure it out but you will have to work at it.

    I did the original thread and Vaughn said that we should set it aside in the tutorials. I responded by saying something like, "Let me make a better one if it is going to be a tutorial." Anyway the two threads got married and became a bit difficult to get along with.

    I keep saying to myself that I should start all over and do a new tutorial.

    Anyway, the steady rest stops all of the vibration on thin turnings. It costs less than five bucks to make and works like a charm. If you have any questions give me a PM.



    I went back and looked at the thread. Bless Vaughn. He went through and cleaned up the merger mess. I don't think that guy ever sleeps.

    The thread is "Shopmade Steady Rest Parts #1 and #2 - JB"

    Do realize: If you are going to work only with small turnings a smaller opening is desirable. A smaller opening means that the vertical piece is in your way less. It also means shorter "arms" and that means more stability. Where the wheels ride is are going to compress your wood very slightly. You will want to do a little bit more sanding in that area after you finish turning.
    After the steady rest is removed the pressure you put on the spindle with the sandpaper will be minimal AND you can feel if any vibration starts.

    Oh yes---another edit. Remember, the smaller the wheels, the smaller piece of wood (diameter) you can use the steady rest on. As you move the wheels towards the center to steady a small diameter spindle, every thing is fine until the wheels hit each other and the center gap is still larger than your work piece.

    Last edited by Jim C Bradley; 06-18-2011 at 04:27 AM. Reason: clarification and thanks to Vaughn
    First of all you have to be smarter than the machine.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Reno, Nv
    Well...I'm going to the otherside. I really like it!
    Your Respiratory Therapist wears Combat boots

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