Alex Reid
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Love the joinery on the legs. Wonderful job.
New Roubo Style Bench
- Thread starter Stuart Ablett
- Start date
Sawstop
I have a saw exactly like yours looks like one of the first one they made . The dealer tells me the professional saw has a better saw dust shroud just below the table much closer to the blade . They make a new better replacement shroud to catch the saw dust better . But it is not as good as the Professional saw . He also said the tube from the shroud to the outlet is to long to shorten it tilt the saw to 45% then cut out the excess just leave a gentle curve . He said the professional will shoot the saw dust straight out the back without a dust collector . If I can download some pictures of mine will do . Here is http://www.sawstop.com/documents/ICS Front Dust Shroud Replacement Guide V1.1 4-8-10.pdf just copy and paste Gene
After some time with the workbench/SawStop set up I built a while back, I've decided that it just don't work.
Here you can see the old set up.....
I thought this was a good idea at the time, I was wrong, it does not work well.
It is too big, it takes up too much space, and I can only work from one side of the workbench, and each time I want to use the saw, I have to clear the whole thing off, don't work well...
I decided that I want the saw turned so the cutting direction is on the long axis of the workshop and I want a separate workbench.
I trimmed the rails down to 162cm/63" this should be an OK width, I had to cut down the extension table with the router insert as well.
One of the other reasons I was doing this was the DC on the SawStop just did not work well, I figured with a direct shot to the saw from the 6" hose it would work better, I'm sure it will, as this is what I found in the 4" DC pipe next to the saw.....
Yep, that pile of dust
No wonder the DC sucked on the saw
I have the SawStop basically done, now I need to buy the wood to make my workbench.
I'm going to make a Roubu or French workbench as described by Christopher Schwarz in his "The Workbench Book", like this......
He recommends Southern Yellow Pine, but I cannot find it here, to make a truly heavy duty bench out of say Maple here would cost me a lot, a WHOLE lot.
One wood that is close to SYP is Douglas Fir, and I found some!!
These are meant to be ridge beams, the top ones in this stack are 4" x 6" by 13' long and cost about $50 each, I think my workbench should be about 24" wide, so 4 of these beams laid side by side will be close to that, and a squared off piece for each leg, I should be good to go!
Should be quite the bench......
I have a saw exactly like yours looks like one of the first one they made . The dealer tells me the professional saw has a better saw dust shroud just below the table much closer to the blade . They make a new better replacement shroud to catch the saw dust better . But it is not as good as the Professional saw . He also said the tube from the shroud to the outlet is to long to shorten it tilt the saw to 45% then cut out the excess just leave a gentle curve . He said the professional will shoot the saw dust straight out the back without a dust collector . If I can download some pictures of mine will do . Here is http://www.sawstop.com/documents/ICS Front Dust Shroud Replacement Guide V1.1 4-8-10.pdf just copy and paste Gene
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You did fine Gene. Great post and good advice.
The thread is still under Stu's name, but your name was showing up as the most recent person to post in the thread.
The thread is still under Stu's name, but your name was showing up as the most recent person to post in the thread.
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Oh, And welcome aboard!
Bob Gibson
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Welcome Gene !!!!
Stuart Ablett
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Welcome Gene, and thanks for the tip on the dust shroud, I did not know that, I'll look into getting the replacement parts!
Cheers!
Cheers!
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Welcome aboard, Gene. Your post is just fine. I think what caught you by surprise is that Stu's post was included (or 'Quoted') in your post. That's because you clicked the "Quote" button at the bottom of Stu's original post. If you want to comment without including another person's text and pictures, click the "Reply" button instead. 
I think what caught you by surprise is that Stu's post was included (or 'Quoted') in your post. That's because you clicked the "Quote" button at the bottom of Stu's original post. If you want to comment without including another person's text and pictures, click the "Reply" button instead. 
Roy Bauman
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- 206
Great job on this, Stu. The jointery looks fantastic.
Hi Stu your bench looks good . How are you doing with your chair projects ?
How do I put a picture on here I want to show you what my saw looks like , I wanted to be able to put a movable bench there at the back so I wanted to move the tube from the back to out the side . My shop is small not quite as small as yours but if I can show you a picture I ran the hose over to the side and out of my cabinet and up the wall over head . As of yet I have not shortened my hose under my saw . I will try to add some pictures later . I cannot do much work right now I have been dealing with an infected bursa sack on my elbow . But I have more time to do this on computer .
How do I put a picture on here I want to show you what my saw looks like , I wanted to be able to put a movable bench there at the back so I wanted to move the tube from the back to out the side . My shop is small not quite as small as yours but if I can show you a picture I ran the hose over to the side and out of my cabinet and up the wall over head . As of yet I have not shortened my hose under my saw . I will try to add some pictures later . I cannot do much work right now I have been dealing with an infected bursa sack on my elbow . But I have more time to do this on computer .
Stuart Ablett
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Hi Gene!
Sorry to hear about your elbow, take it easy and heal fast!
Thanks for the comments on my bench, Roy, thank you as well!
I'm really enjoying using it, I cannot imagine working on all these chairs without a good bench, it is so easy and quick to get a hold of each chair so do the sanding, scraping and repairing needed.
To post pics, go and see the tutorial that Vaughn put up >> HERE << click on that link and it will take you to the page.
Cheers!
Sorry to hear about your elbow, take it easy and heal fast!
Thanks for the comments on my bench, Roy, thank you as well!
I'm really enjoying using it, I cannot imagine working on all these chairs without a good bench, it is so easy and quick to get a hold of each chair so do the sanding, scraping and repairing needed.
To post pics, go and see the tutorial that Vaughn put up >> HERE << click on that link and it will take you to the page.
Cheers!
You did fine Gene. Great post and good advice.
The thread is still under Stu's name, but your name was showing up as the most recent person to post in the thread.
Hi guys
Here is some pictures of my SAWSTOP and a couple of projects . I have a router set in the table on the right then to the right of the router I have a small table saw set in there . I need a 7 1/4 in. blade with real thin blade . You cannot put that on sawstop . I should have had it cleaned off to see the blade . And your shop looks so clean compared to mine . I guess I need to clean up a little . But then if you use it and make something it is going to get dirty . But i have had so much trouble to get these pics on here . Finally figured it out .
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Stuart Ablett
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Thanks Gene!
Very interesting, and that is a nice Pie Safe!
Very interesting, and that is a nice Pie Safe!
Bob Gibson
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Nice shop Gene
Stuart Ablett
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- Tokyo Japan
I built this bench to use it for the chair job, boy was it useful, I don't think I could have done that job without it, but I was in a hurry, so I only slapped one quick coat of Watco oil on it. It took a beating, especially from all the sharpening I did, the slurry that I was constantly slopping around made a real mess, and my poor bench looked lousy.
as you can see it looks dirty, not happy with how it looks at all.
I decided to fix this, first I planed the top flat again, and got rid of the awful mess, then I applied four nice wet soaking coats of Watco and let it dry, in between each coat I would lightly sand with a green scrubby pad. When that was all dry I then put a sheet of #240 grit sandpaper on my ROS and slopped some more Watco onto the surface and sanded it for a while, this made a nice mess, but left a very nice surface, smooth but not shinny or slippery.
I hope after four coats and one more sanded in that this surface is much more resistant to staining, but I'm wondering if I need to add some beeswax to my mix?
Cheers!
as you can see it looks dirty, not happy with how it looks at all.
I decided to fix this, first I planed the top flat again, and got rid of the awful mess, then I applied four nice wet soaking coats of Watco and let it dry, in between each coat I would lightly sand with a green scrubby pad. When that was all dry I then put a sheet of #240 grit sandpaper on my ROS and slopped some more Watco onto the surface and sanded it for a while, this made a nice mess, but left a very nice surface, smooth but not shinny or slippery.
I hope after four coats and one more sanded in that this surface is much more resistant to staining, but I'm wondering if I need to add some beeswax to my mix?
Cheers!