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Thread: Which glue?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Indianola, Ia about 12 miles south of Des Moines
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    440

    Which glue?

    I went out today a purchased wood to build a cedar chest of some friends. They want it biult from cherry and then stained to match their bedroom set.I will line it with cedar panel liner. The chest will be stained fairly dark. Should I use liquid hide glue or the yellow wood glue? I will try to post pics of the progress. I am a bit nervous as this is the first paying job that is not of a simple to me build.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Indianapolis area
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    1,697
    I tend to use TBII for just about everything. It's available in a dark (walnut) color formula. Should do the trick if the color is a concern. If not, just use yellow TBII.
    ________

    Ron

    "Individual commitment to a group effort--that is what makes a team work, a company work, a society work, a civilization work."
    Vince Lombardi

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Oceanside, So. Calif. 5 mi. to the ocean
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    4,944
    I use the Original TB. It sure holds things together. It goes on easily. I spread it with an old credit card like thing.

    If you use it, you have to work fast. It is slippery as an air puck and then you cannot move it with a crowbar. If there is glue-out I do one of two things. 1) Wipe it down very soon with a damp cloth. 2) Wait until it changes. I'm not quite sure how to describe it---you just get a feel that it is rubbery all of the way through (usually 20 to 35 minutes). At that time it will peel off neat as can be.

    In spite of all of the semi-scientific advise---remember Glenn probably uses 20 times the glue I do. So, the above advice is worth every cent you spent for it.

    Enjoy,

    Jim
    First of all you have to be smarter than the machine.
    VOTING MEMBER

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Amherst, New Hampshire
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    10,604
    I use TBII for just about everything. If you wipe, scrape and sand the joints it won't be a problem.
    Faith, Hope & Charity

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Cape Cod, Ma.
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    1,553
    I would use TB1. I have used 1 2 and 3 with good results. I have on occassion had problems with TB2 creeping.
    The piece has been dry for more than 24 hours, in some cases several days before getting to put finish on. All properly sanded and after the finish hits it some of the gluejoints have raised up and not gone back down. Just a very hairthin line but enough that it glares at you in the right light and you can feel the ridge. I would stick with tb1. I have never had that problem and unless this is going to be getting wet from time to time there is no need for the tb2 anyway.
    Also, keep your joints good and tight and your boards matched up and glue lines wont be an issue.
    Good luck! sounds like a great project!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    So. Florida
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    That's a good question especially if you aren't familiar with certain woods and glues to use. I love Cherry, and try not to ever stain it. But, it's your project, so I'll get off my little wood soapbox.

    Actually you can use just about any white glue (PVA), or yellow glues (aliphatic resin). Those are the least expensive and easy to use. Those glues can be tinted if necessary, but you gotta work fast. I would suggest doing any dry fitting to make sure all is OK. Then have all you need laid out and easy to reach, like glue, rags, clamps, and any props you might need.

    It's a PITA in the middle of a glue up, to go running around the shop looking for parts or a clamp or three.




    .

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
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    17,472
    rex to further exemplify mikes statement is the dry fit first and if there is any way to glue up in sections to make the glue up simpler do that.. any of us that have made anything with more than one joint has ran across the where is this and then have a aw shucks moment..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Indianola, Ia about 12 miles south of Des Moines
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    440
    Mike, I tend to agree with you on the stain. Cherry is a beautiful wood without staining it dark so that you can't see the grain. Thanks for all the replies. I had picked up some liquid hide glue because I had read that it had a longer tack time. I have to glue up panels and then glue the mitered cornors. I got boards long enough to have the grain follow from the sides and front. The back will be different boards. I am in the process now of makeing them straight.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Austin, Texas
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    I have been disappointed with the pre-mixed liquid Hide glue. I am another vote for original Titebond, or Elmer's carpenter glue (the same thing).

    End grain has almost no glue strength; a mitered corner is largely end grain, so you should look at ways to strengthen the mitered corners. That is why dovetails are so popular (despite the pain). Lacking that, look into splines or other reinforcement.
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Indianola, Ia about 12 miles south of Des Moines
    Posts
    440
    Well it looks like it will be TB then. As far as the miters I have been using biscuts and have had very good luck with them. I think that the dovetails would be much stronger, but 1 my dovetail jig isn't that wide, 2 I don't do hand cut dovetails, 3 I think that they may stand out where there are no other pieces of furniture that has them in the room.

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