Question for Dave

Rich Soby

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Cape Cod, Ma.
I had to piece in the wood floor on the kitchen I am renovating. The house has white pine flooring which on first inspection looked like typical 1x stock that had been stained and then i later found out what seemed like "bartop" applied the varnish was so thick.... 12 50 grit belts and 40 discs of 60 grit later....

Anyway, the new floor is that nice bright white of fresh cut pine. The old floor looks like it is older than the approximately 30 years it has been down. It is darker white with some brownish and reddish shading.
I can get you a better picture of the new pine but this is what the old looks like.
I have a coat of shellac and a coat of the enduro var on right now and before I do my final coats I wanted to tone down the whiteness of the new floor. I know I wont get an exact match and so does the homeowner. Spraying isnt an option I have to brush. I was thinking of adding a little red/brown tint in a thinned down mix like toner and brushing it on. What are your thoughts or do you have an easier fix?
Thanks in advance!

Drifmeyerkitchen071111007.jpg
 
What if there's more than one Dave? Maybe you should have PM'd him instead.



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im tired its been a long day! give me a break! :D:rofl::eek::doh:

I guess I should have done that or just made it a general question. Dave was the first person who's name came to me when I was scratching my head trying to figure out what to do....... I certainly hope I didnt hurt any feelings....definitely not my intent.:doh:
 
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I would have toned the new floor with a vingar steel wood wash to get a match before you put on anything. Now you have found a good salution but you should try Burnt Umber 1st and then tweak it if you need to. Are you useing an acrylic finish?
 
ya , not much about 5% at 1st, you can always add toner. You may go up to 20% max But I don't see it seeing how light the floors are. Unless your talking about the difference of color tone in the hallway, I don't see enough difference of tone in the kitchen to warent using a toner. It will change over time and after a couple weeks living with it it will not be noticeable. Or do you have a better picture.
 
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Knew I forgot to do something when I was there today.... :doh:
I will get you a better pic tomorrow when I go back. The difference is very distinct and I much as I wish it were so I dont think it will darken enough...
 
Here are some better pics showing the disparity.

drifmeyerfloor071711001.jpg


drifmeyerfloor071711002.jpg


drifmeyerfloor071711003.jpg


I took them from different angles as the sun was blasting through the window and there was a lot of shadow...... only one window in the room so the lighting is a nightmare sometimes
 
12 hours of steel wool sitting in vinegar I knew you would have had a perfect match. 4 glaze I would probly use hickory a little bit of cherry mix. that should give you a color tone you need. Let me know if you need any help
 
Thank you Dave.
Just my luck.....
Would I be better off sanding the new areas down to the bare wood again and using the steel wool and vinegar? Or is it too late. I have a spitcoat of shellac and 1 coat of enduro var. (not that I want to sand again.....)
Or should I, at this point just plunge forward and try to tint it?
Thanks again.

If I go the steel wool route, just on pad and a qt of white vinegar, filter it into another container, then apply the rusty vinegar like I would a stain?

If I go the glaze route what dye would be the equivilent of the hickory? Dark walnut/Van Dyke brown? I usually use trans tint but I am not averse to trying dry powders either.
 
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If it would be quicker then matching Then do so. But I thinkatchimg the color would be faster. With sanding and wash ypu will get the varitions of tone tjat you will not get with color toning.
 
All done! I used Dave's suggestion of the steel wool and vinegar. It brought out the reds and aged the pine a bit. Then after the first coat of varnish I tinted the second coat with GF puritan pine stain to get the gold hue. I left it a little lighter than the old floor because the endurovar will amber as it cures and I had no way of measuring that factor but the old floor already had cured finish on it. Keeping my fingers crossed that the ambering will give me the final blend that I am looking for.
Thanks again for the tip Dave! (and your patience with me while I tried to get my head around it.....:) )

floor080611006.jpg

the flooring that runs the width of the island are the new boards the old floor is to either side
floor080611004.jpg


thte two boards on the left are the new floor.
 
WOW that came out Nice ! You did good. It was my pleasure helping you out. I love it when I can share what I know and others can learn from what I've learned over the Years. Again great Job :thumb::thumb:
 
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