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Thread: How to cut a bevel on a transition strip with a tablesaw

  1. #1

    How to cut a bevel on a transition strip with a tablesaw

    I need to cut a bevel on an oak transition strip(6').....It will be greater than 45 degrees..

    I think that this would be best accomplished with some form of a jig.

    I would like to do this with a tablesaw....

    Would really appreciate your input/help....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    ABQ NM
    Sam, if I'm understanding you correctly, the bevel cut can be done by running the board through on edge. With the saw set up like this:

    The cut would go something like this:

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tilted Tablesaw1 800.jpg   Tilted Tablesaw2 800.jpg  
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Vancouver Island, Courtenay/Comox Valley, British Columbia
    Vaughn, can't you make that cut with the board flat instead of standing?
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Plainwell, Michigan
    Quote Originally Posted by Cynthia White View Post
    Vaughn, can't you make that cut with the board flat instead of standing?
    That is more than a 45 degree angle (max of most table saws) when flat Cynthia thus it needs to be standing in edge

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    No, not all of SoCal is Los Angeles!
    I prefer to do these types of things on the jointer if you have one. Otherwise, it's on edge which can be made safer with tall featherboards.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Decatur, Alabama
    I think I know what you mean, like a transition between tile and hardwood? If so I made some of these a couple years ago with a jig on a planer.

    For the jig I cut a short board that was 1-1/2" thick, 4" wide and about 3' long. I put the blade on the table saw at full height and about 10 degrees off straight up and down and ran the board through cutting most of the way through it. Then I laid the flat side down, lowered the blade and took a wedge out of it with that cut. I waxed the 3' piece, clamped it into the planer, and ran the tranistion pieces over the top of it at an angle and used the planer to cut the angle on the transition, turned it around and cut the other side of the transition.

    The transition piece I was cutting were only about 1/4" thick, so I didn't feel like it was safe to cut on a table saw. I tried cutting a 3/4" board on all 4 corners then resawing, but the surface had some burns in it, and generally the wood not being perfectly flat over the 9' lengths make a inconsistant cut. With the planer, you can feed 1/4" strip in that's not perfectly flat and it does just fine with a very consistant cut. I'm not sure that's all clear, I struggle to describe things without pictures.. If anyone wants a picture, just msg me and I'll try and post one when I get home.

    You can do it on a table saw, especially if it's a thicker piece, but this method worked well for a thin/not perfectly flat piece of wood.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    new york city burbs
    I made 3 transitions for my sons basement and bathroom last week.
    I cut it like Vaughns picture, edge side on blade, then ran it through the planer upside down, taking off what I wanted from bottom, then flipped it again and ran a dado (on one side of the transition)slightly higher than the 1/8th thickness of the laminate through the table saw.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Tokyo Japan
    A sharp hand plane and a little elbow grease and you would be golden!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  9. #9
    Jeb, would appreciate your posting pictures of your method....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Cape Cod, Ma.
    If the piece is too narrow or you dont feel comfortable running it through on edge consider attaching it to another board to give you a thicker piece to run against the fence. Like a taller auxiliary fence with a couple of clamps on it. That is the fastest way to do it then just sand out your saw marks.

    The other way which takes a bit longer but is just as easy is as Jeb said to make a sled for your planer and run the stock through in several passes to get it down to what you need.
    Just picture a piece of plywood shimmed up on one side with a block screwed to one end that hooks over the end of your infeed table to keep it from being pulled through and a small fence on the down slope side to keep your stock running true

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