Is something like this available?

Sandy Navas

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Messages
52
Location
St. Joseph, MO
I am not a total newbie to turning - first turned on (and probably ruined) my Dad's lathe when I had to pull up a Pepsi case to reach the on/off switch. I've been turning spinning tops recently and would really like to find a chuck similar to a drill press chuck that would screw onto the headstock (approximately 1/2 inch opening only).

Before I begin a fruitless search, has anyone ever seen something like this? I have a regular drill chuck but need the tailstock in place to use it on the headstock.:dunno: :bonkers:
 
Hi Sandy, Welcome!:wave:

I find the drill chuck on a #2MT is a VERY useful addition to the lathe, there are a lot of things you can do with it. One point of caution, when you use it on the headstock of the lathe, in use it can and will come out of the headstock (as it slides into the MT as the drive center does).

You need a draw bar to use the drill chuck on the headstock safely.

What this is (in my case anyway) is just a long threaded rod (we used to call in "Ready-Rod") that threads into the back of the drill chuck and then has a nut or knob on the outside of the headstock, the back side of the head stock, I guess.

Make sense? :rolleyes: :D

here is a pic I found online

drill_chuck_drawbar.jpg

That was from here

http://www.peterchild.co.uk/accs.htm

You say something about a drill chuck "Screwing onto the headstock"

Well I'm not sure what you mean, but a normal lathe chuck screws on, but the drill chucks that I've seen, they go onto a shaft that has a MT#2 on it and slide into the taper on the headstock end or the tailstock.

If you have a drill chuck on your drill press that is a MT#2, and you have a MT#2 on your lathe, you can just use the same drill chuck for both.

Hope this help, if you need more of an explanation, ask, and I'll take some pics to help with my poor description! :rolleyes:

Cheers!
 
As everyone is showing you, they are there and not too expensive. Most all of them will diclaimer to use on the tailstock only... But I have used mine in the headstock as well... Not yet harmed or dead from the experience but I guess it is a safety thingy but I don't know why. :dunno:

Stuart is right, they are designed for a #1 or #2 Morris Taper and fit in the tapered hole of the Spindle or the Tailstock (inplace of the cup center or the spur center. Depends on the lathe manufacturer. I have mine on a #1 Taper because my lathe takes #1. Sears has them to fit #1 Rockler, WWers Supply, & WoodCraft all have #2 I think Grizzly has both(?)
 
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Drill Chucks

Appreciate everyone's comments. I have two separate chucks (drill type) that fit on a Morse taper. However, you have to have the tailstock in place to be able to use them on the headstock. I'm really looking for some kind small chuck that will screw onto the headstock and will hold something as small as 1/2". My Nova chuck, for instance, will only close to about a 2" diameter.

For the application I'm doing, a center on the tailstock will help hold the drill chuck on the Morse taper in place, however I need a bit more freedom and space than this will allow.

Thanks everyone - I'll keep pondering and searching.
 
Stuart - your suggestion is close to what I had in mind. However, it appears that the chuck is just slid onto the Morse taper . . . the screw rod holds the Morse taper in place. The chuck, then, could still come lose (and probably would) unless the chuck was permanently secured to the Morse taper. I may just need to get out my welding equipment and fabricate my own! :thumb:
 
Appreciate everyone's comments. I have two separate chucks (drill type) that fit on a Morse taper. However, you have to have the tailstock in place to be able to use them on the headstock. I'm really looking for some kind small chuck that will screw onto the headstock and will hold something as small as 1/2". My Nova chuck, for instance, will only close to about a 2" diameter.

For the application I'm doing, a center on the tailstock will help hold the drill chuck on the Morse taper in place, however I need a bit more freedom and space than this will allow.

Thanks everyone - I'll keep pondering and searching.

Do you have a Morse taper in your headstock? What kind of lathe do you have?
If you do have the MT, what has been suggested is probably your best way to go. But, do read product descriptions carefully. There are Jacobs-type chucks which are best at holding steel, as with drill bits. Then there are Jacobs-type whice are designed for holding round wood. The shape of the jaws is the difference.
 
Sandy, what kind of lathe do you have?

OK, here you go, this is what I have/use.........

drawbar_and_chuck.jpg
Here is is assembled like it would be in the lathe

drawbar_and_chuck_close.jpg
A closer look at the parts

drawbar.jpg
This is the draw-bar, there is a thick piece of plywood as a spacer, or washer, and then two knobs. The knob on the end is for tightening the draw-bar into the threaded hole in the MT#2 attachment.
The second knob is for tightening the draw bar against the wooden block, this pulls the MT#2 attachment, which holds the drill chuck, into the headstock of the lathe

drawbar_drill_chuck_mt2.jpg
Here is the drill chuck, with the MT#2 attachment

drawbar_drill_chuck_mt2_apart.jpg
Here is the MT#2 attachment removed from the drill chuck

drawbar_and_chuck_not_tightened_down.jpg
Here the draw-bar is threaded into the MT#2 but the 2nd knob is not tightend up yet.

drawbar_and_chuck_tightened_down.jpg
Here it is, the 2nd knob is tightened against the plywood block, drawing the MT#2 attachment, to which the drill chuck is attached, into the headstock.

Used like this, I think it is very save.

If you want to grip smaller stuff, and you have a Nova chuck, you could get the "Pin Jaws" for the chuck, these will hold small stuff.


pin_jaws.jpg
A set of Pin Jaws for the Nova Chucks.........

I hope this helps.

Cheers!
 
Sandy........I use a jacobs chuck/dp chuck on my Jet Mini. The chuck is attached to a #2 Morse taper. I put it into the headstock and as Stu recommended insert a piece of allthread or a long 1/4-20 bolt through the hole in the hand wheel and headstock and screw it into the Morse taper. I have a washer and wingnut on the bolt. I then tighten the wing nut up against the washer which is next to the handwheel. This captures the #2 Morse taper and thus the chuck to the headstock and it can't come out.

I don't remember how much I paid for the chuck, the Morse taper and the bolt, wingnut and washer...but it wasn't much as turning tools go
 
If you have a Morse taper take some very fine grit sand paper & clean it out & the same for the chuck taper & then place the Morse taper of the chuck into the head stock taper & give it a rap with a wooden mallet it should stay in the taper with no problem. You should have to use a rod through the head stock from the back side & tap on the end of the rod to remove the chuck.
 
If you have a Morse taper take some very fine grit sand paper & clean it out & the same for the chuck taper & then place the Morse taper of the chuck into the head stock taper & give it a rap with a wooden mallet it should stay in the taper with no problem. You should have to use a rod through the head stock from the back side & tap on the end of the rod to remove the chuck.

Sandy still hasn't said what kind of chuck he (she?) has. It is possible there is no Morse taper in the headstock. I know some have said to "always" use a drawbar with a MT chuck. I use your mallet and (gentle) rap technique and don't have a problem with the chuck coming out.
 
Sandy still hasn't said what kind of chuck he (she?) has. It is possible there is no Morse taper in the headstock. I know some have said to "always" use a drawbar with a MT chuck. I use your mallet and (gentle) rap technique and don't have a problem with the chuck coming out.


Depending what you are doing Frank, you might not have a problem, but if you are doing some cut, say on the back side of the piece, so pressure is directed towards the tailstock, the potential for the MT coming out is there.

If the mallet method works so well, why do modern wood lathes not have MT#4 and mount the chucks onto it? Easier than fooling with threads and stuff............ right?

The draw bar costs next to nothing, took me 10 minutes to make, and about 3 minutes to install.

I know I'm worth it, and I think you are too Frank;) :D

Sandy, still waiting on your response.

Cheers!
 
Thanks guys for all the input. I've got a Jet 1642 lathe and it does have the Morse taper on both the head and tailstock. I have a One-Way chuck and have discovered that they make spigot jaws as a replacement - they will suit this project to a "T".

I like Stu's rigged up method though. Never tried tapping the taper in further but that would probably work equally well and save me a few dollars - now I can get that new HF gouge!!:rolleyes:
 
This captures the #2 Morse taper and thus the chuck to the headstock and it can't come out.

Ken - and Stu, too,

I understand everything about screwing the Morse taper onto the draw-rod, but what would keep the chuck from coming off the taper during use if there is no pressure from the tailstock?

Thanks, everyone!!
 
Ken - and Stu, too,

I understand everything about screwing the Morse taper onto the draw-rod, but what would keep the chuck from coming off the taper during use if there is no pressure from the tailstock?

Thanks, everyone!!


The back end of the rod is threaded also. You put a plate or large washer over the hole then a nut on the rod and draw it tight. I understand the concept but have never felt (felt ? ) :eek: the need.
 
The back end of the rod is threaded also. You put a plate or large washer over the hole then a nut on the rod and draw it tight. I understand the concept but have never felt (felt ? ) :eek: the need.

I get all that part. However, the drill chuck still must be 'slipped' onto the Morse taper not screwed on. Therefore, without a live center pushing from the tailstock there is still the chance that the chuck will slip off the Morse taper. I can swing a bucket of water over my head without spilling a drop, but I don't think centrifugal force would necessarily be reliable in this case - at least not with my luck.:wave:
 
Sandy

No the chuck is slipped onto the Jacobs taper and this isn't a self releasing taper. I think you are worried about the chuck coming off the arbor while everyone is explaning how to hold the arbor to the lathe. A chuck properly placed on an arbor should never let go with out the use of wedges.

And if you are really worried about it there are chucks available that have the MT built in but they usually have a tang on the end of them instead of a threaded hole. I have cut these tangs off and drilled and tapped for a drawbar.


Garry
 
Sandy....I bought my jacobs chuck at Woodcraft and the chuck is attached to the #2 Morse taper. In the end of the taper is a threaded hole. IIRC..1/4-20. I bought IIRC a 6"0r maybe 8" 1/4-20 bolt and reversed a wingnut on it and a washer. I can tell you that I tried turning bottle stoppers without having it captured and the thing would come out of the headstock. I pretty sure the jacobs chuck is threaded onto the #2 Morse taper.

I'll post a Link from Woodcraft if I can find it on their site.

About the middle of the page....it is the one I bought......http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3975
 
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Sandy, I'm sure you will find the Spigot jaws a great addition to your arsenal of tools! :thumb:


Garry has nailed the reason the chuck don't come off the arbor, it is NOT self releasing. To get it off the arbor for the pic I took, I had to use a brass drift punch, and a 2 1/2 pound sledge and really DRIVE it off over my vice. The MT releases with just a tap of the knock out bar, the JT, well, like I said, a good heavy pounding, or a wedge, like Garry said (looks very similar to a ball joint tool for cars).

Glad we could help you spend some money on more lathe tools!! :D

Cheers!
 
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