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Is something like this available?

Stuart:
Depending what you are doing Frank, you might not have a problem, but if you are doing some cut, say on the back side of the piece, so pressure is directed towards the tailstock, the potential for the MT coming out is there.
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Oftentimes the Jacobs chuck is attached to the Morris Tapered shaft by another Taper on the other end. So how would the draw bar prevent that taper from coming loose, should you apply back pressure as you discribe.

I have one where the shaft is threaded on the chuck but not all do. So, I would say it is best to make sure what you have , etc. Perhaps there is a reason the manufacturers disclaimer on the use for "tailstock only" Although we seldom read those small details.

Bart:
If you have a Morse taper take some very fine grit sand paper & clean it out & the same for the chuck taper & then place the Morse taper of the chuck into the head stock taper & give it a rap with a wooden mallet it should stay in the taper with no problem.
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I was always taught NEVER to use fine (or otherwise) paper to clean a Morris taper as you reduce the surface contact, and it is the surface tension that holds the taper in place. Clean only with solvents. The tapered hole as well as the tapered shaft must be cleaned (with solvent) and when the two surfaces are jammed together surface friction takes over. A sharp rap will break free but not constant pressure (If installed correctly)

Interesting string of resposes, I Just wanted to Nose in with some thoughts on some interesting comments. Leave it to a turner to get himself into a situation where he has to be inginuitive and creative to make "just one more little cut" Seems like every time I try to be creative in some design, I end up pondering and scheming to come up with a way to make that detail. when it is finished and some one sees it never realizing how much trouble it was (or fun it was in the process) to make a "simple" detail.
 
Ken Fitzgerald said:
Sandy....I bought my jacobs chuck at Woodcraft and the chuck is attached to the #2 Morse taper. In the end of the taper is a threaded hole. IIRC..1/4-20. I bought IIRC a 6"0r maybe 8" 1/4-20 bolt and reversed a wingnut on it and a washer. I can tell you that I tried turning bottle stoppers without having it captured and the thing would come out of the headstock. I pretty sure the jacobs chuck is threaded onto the #2 Morse taper.

I'll post a Link from Woodcraft if I can find it on their site.

About the middle of the page....it is the one I bought......http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3975
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Those pictured all are Morse taper. Any MT tool can come out under certain circumstances. They are made within tolerances and sometimes the fit isn't exactly the optimum. But, I get the impression you are over complex-cating a simple issue. ;) In fact, I have lost track of what your problem is. :eek:
 
Frank Fusco said:
Those pictured all are Morse taper. Any MT tool can come out under certain circumstances. They are made within tolerances and sometimes the fit isn't exactly the optimum. But, I get the impression you are over complex-cating a simple issue. ;) In fact, I have lost track of what your problem is. :eek:
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I think what he is referring to : How the MT shaft is affixed to the Jacobs chuck. Some (few) are built into the chuck body. Some have a threaded end to the MT shaft that screws into the chuck, some have another tapered shaft (#4MT I believe?) that fit into a tapered hole in the Jacobs chuck.

The Threaded chucks are usually manufactured for Hand drill motors and such, and some manufacturer has taken that chuck and adapted a MT shank to fit. The Tapered Chucks are generally manufactured for the Drill Press and some manufacturer has taken that chuck and adapted a MT shank to fit. The solid shaft chuck is manufactured only for that application ( I have seen these for use with Verticle Milling machines).
 
Just real curious if Bill and Frank missed Gary's post <- :D :wave:

drawbar_drill_chuck_mt_2_apart.jpg
This is my Jacobs drill chuck disassembled.

Note the two tapers, the short one, the Jacobs Taper, goes into the drill chuck, the long one the Morse Taper #2 goes into the lathe, either in the headstock or the tail stock.

These two tapers are VERY different and how they hold is also VERY different.

The MT is DESIGNED to be removed and installed easily, and often, the JT is NOT, it is HARD to remove, and would not easily come out under normal wood turning. The MT taper is DESIGNED to be held into the matching taper on the machine (be it a lathe, milling machine or drill press) by friction and by pressure applied to it, but with an easy tap on the tail of the taper it comes right out.


spindle_mount_jt.jpg
The JT has to be removed by driving wedges between the chuck body and drill press, or tool.


arbor_mount_jt.jpg
In the case of the arbor mount (like in my picture above) the arbor must be removed from the drill chuck by driving wedges between the arbor and the dill chuck, or by pressing, or striking the arbor through the drill chuck (see the arrow on the right illustration).


pressure_direction.JPG
In use on the headstock of a wood turning lathe, a drill chuck mounted on an arbor, with a MT#2 that goes into the head stock of the lathe will come out of the head stock EASILY if pressure is applied to the back side of the turning in the direction of the tailstock from the head stock.

If the arbor is secured by a draw bar, through the headstock of the lathe, the chances of the JT letting go are really, really small. I know that I have to use a 2 1/2 pound sledge and a good drift punch with the arbor and drill chuck well supported to remove my arbor with the JT from the drill chuck, I cannot see anything I'm working on, mounted in the drill chuck, on the lathe, exerting that much force.

Bill, it is true that a set up where the arbor is threaded onto the drill chuck is better, and a one piece unit even beats that, but, both would still need a draw bar through the headstock, or the MT will let loose.

This idea of rapping the drill chuck with a mallet is not a bad one, but relying on that, and not a draw bar, is a false sense of security, in my opinion, and I cannot recommend it.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers!
 
i`d feel safe spinning a jacobs taper in excess of all wood laths top speed....the morse taper requires a drawbar to be secure....if anybody`s still worried wessel out of germany makes some very good 4- jaw scroll chucks that can be addapted to any lathe......here`s pics..tod

MVC-273S.JPG

MVC-274S.JPG
 
An alternative to using a jacobs chuck when you need to chuck up something with a small diameter is to make a bushing. I keep wood dowels around up too an inch in dia. I simply cut off a 2" long piece or whatever length I need and clamp it in my nova chuck. Then drill a hole through using a jacobs chuck in the tailstock. I then remove the dowel piece and saw most of the way through lengthwise, first from one end and then from the other end @ 90 degrees to the first cut. This allows me to chuck any small dia. I am on the lookout for some nylon or similar material so I can make some more permanant bushings.

I use these bushings to chuck up turkey striker rods (5/16 dia.) after they are glued into the body wood.
 
Stuart Ablett said:
Just real curious if Bill and Frank missed Gary's post <- :D :wave:


If the arbor is secured by a draw bar, through the headstock of the lathe, the chances of the JT letting go are really, really small.
Hope this makes sense.

Cheers!
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Stuart, you may have already mentioned this in a previous post in this thread, but I've missed it some way. Where did you get your draw bar? Is this something available on the market or did you fabricate it?

Thanks so much,

Sandy
 
Michael Robertson said:
Hi Sandy!

I think a collet chuck set might be what you need. Woodcraft sells the set for ~ $79.00.

Mike
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This would be the perfect solution, to allow the use of very small tenons.

But HOW do you keep the Morse taper in place? Do you still need to use the draw bar that Stuart showed earlier? As highlighted by someone, the Morse taper by itself just will not stay in place unless supported by something in the tail stock.


.
 
But HOW do you keep the Morse taper in place? Do you still need to use the draw bar that Stuart showed earlier? As highlighted by someone, the Morse taper by itself just will not stay in place unless supported by something in the tail stock.
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Do you recon there is a reason that the chuck manufacturers put a disclaimer in the package, stating "For Tailstock Use Only" Far be it for me to suggest we follow some sort of safet rule here.... :dunno:

Okay! I know it is a moot statement :rofl: Turners following the RULES!!!

We live in our own lil' world, perhaps it is inhaling dust or fumes that make us that way, or is it a fixation on spinning things and an attemt to do the impossible. Guilty as charged but it only hurts for a little while :wave:
 
Sandy Navas said:
Stuart, you may have already mentioned this in a previous post in this thread, but I've missed it some way. Where did you get your draw bar? Is this something available on the market or did you fabricate it?

Thanks so much,

Sandy
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Yes Sandy, I just fabricated it, nothing to it, a piece of plywood rounded, with a hole in the middle, and two knobs, the "Draw Bar" is a length of threaded rod (we used to call it "Redi-rod").

Simple, took ten minutes to make.

Cheers!
 
Sandy, I use one of these on my Delta Midi. Looks like I need to order another for my Mustard Monster since it's 1 1/4" instead of 1", but I already have a full collet set so life is good. These are great for anything that has a diameter or tenon up to 3/4".
 
A special thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I'm in hawg heaven now - I bought my rod to fit the Morse taper, have the necessary hardware, and even tried everything out yesterday and proved you CAN sharpen a pencil on the lathe. Great fun.

I also was lucky enough to go to Des Moines on Thursday, visited the Woodsmith store, August Home Publishers, and the Meredith Corporation (WOOD Magazine). Everyone was fantastic and our Guild members sure enjoyed the tours and special shopping at Woodsmith.

I came home with a new bowl steady, Jumbo Jaws, and Spigot Jaws for my Oneway Chuck. Guess I need to invest in a couple more chucks though, since I've traded things out several times already. It's sure made life on the lathe a whole lot easier.

Look out everyone, chips are flying!! The floor is covered with curlies.:D :thumb:
 
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