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Thread: Red comes to Nampa - Freud, that is

  1. #1
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    Red comes to Nampa - Freud, that is

    Based on what many of you have said regarding the Freud rip cut blades I went to Woodcraft today, using my $10 off coupon, and got me one! I have the WWII, but I've been disappointed with it when it comes to ripping tough stock. I ripped some 6/4 WO the other day and got burning even if I just slowed down the feed rate. It's a great blade for many things, but I'm about to rip some 8/4 cherry for a table commission and I just did not want to bother with the burn marks.

    I trust you all and your reviews of this blade are great. So, wish me luck! (Oh, I also picked up some shims because I'm so tired of dealing with the flimsy plastic ones.)
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rennie Heuer View Post
    Based on what many of you have said regarding the Freud rip cut blades I went to Woodcraft today, using my $10 off coupon, and got me one! I have the WWII, but I've been disappointed with it when it comes to ripping tough stock. I ripped some 6/4 WO the other day and got burning even if I just slowed down the feed rate. It's a great blade for many things, but I'm about to rip some 8/4 cherry for a table commission and I just did not want to bother with the burn marks.

    I trust you all and your reviews of this blade are great. So, wish me luck! (Oh, I also picked up some shims because I'm so tired of dealing with the flimsy plastic ones.)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Been using one of those for some years now and love it, but your post reminds me that it's maybe time for a replacement... or at least a resharpening.

  3. #3
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    rennie if it starts to burn on you after awhile just clean it.. that wil give you more cutting time before a resharpening is needed..and i dont know how much you have worked with cherry but it likes to burn easy..so sometimes it will pay to get close and recut..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  4. #4
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    Rennie,
    I've had one of those blades for several years now, and it's my "go to" blade for ripping. The 24 tooth blade feeds faster, but doesn't give the cut quality of the glue-line. I still use the 24 tooth blade for roughing cuts, but the 30 tooth is the Cadillac of the bunch.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  5. #5
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    YUP what jim said..i always used to use a combo blade for ripping didnt think it was worth my time to change it out but now its the first thing that gets done and i even have done some cross cuttin with it because i was coming back to rip soon.. they are one frueds better ideas for sure!!
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    rennie if it starts to burn on you after awhile just clean it.. that wil give you more cutting time before a resharpening is needed..and i dont know how much you have worked with cherry but it likes to burn easy..so sometimes it will pay to get close and recut..
    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Kimbrell View Post
    Been using one of those for some years now and love it, but your post reminds me that it's maybe time for a replacement... or at least a resharpening.
    The WWII has been out to NJ's Forrest plant twice for sharpening in the 8 or so years I've had it - might not seem like a lot, but I really don't put a lot of wood past it in a year. Also, I just cleaned it prior to the WO burn.

    I have to agree with you guys, it's just a matter of the right tool for the job.

    I just finished milling up 3 boards for a table top and it did a fantastic job. Smooth and fast.
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  7. #7
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    I had the same situation as you Rennie with the forrest. I've been using the freud glue line rip blade for a month or so and I love it, It breezed through 3" maple bed posts. I use the stabilizers as well.

    My TS is dead on and I couldn't get the forrest blade to perform. I gave it to Larry and it works how it's advertised must be the guy who pushes it thru the wood I guess
    Faith, Hope & Charity

  8. #8
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    Welcome to Club Red, Rennie. I've been very happy with my Freud rip and crosscut blades. Both are thin kerf, and I haven't felt a need for stabilizers on either of them. I think the rip blade is the 24 tooth, and the crosscut is 60 tooth. Only takes a minute or two to swap out the blades on my saw, so I don't mind switching them when necessary. (Although I will use the rip blade for a rough crosscut or two.)
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
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  9. #9
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    Rennie - Freud suggests using their 30T GLR for materials up to 1". The GLR's use a very tight side clearance to give a more polished edge from a lower tooth count blade, which actually makes them more prone to burning in thicker materials, so you'll need to keep on eye things....feed rate, flatness, moisture content, etc. Keeping the blade clean is always a good idea, and raising it higher might help some too. Good luck.
    Got Wood?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott spencer View Post
    Rennie - Freud suggests using their 30T GLR for materials up to 1". The GLR's use a very tight side clearance to give a more polished edge from a lower tooth count blade, which actually makes them more prone to burning in thicker materials, so you'll need to keep on eye things....feed rate, flatness, moisture content, etc. Keeping the blade clean is always a good idea, and raising it higher might help some too. Good luck.
    Thanks Scott. It did great on the 4/4 stock but I did notice a bit of binding on the 8/4 - as would be expected given the design. Even so, it did a great job there too. I knew it was intended for thinner stock (I actually read the package info ) but, since I don't get into thick stock that often, figured it would be OK for the occasional thick cut.
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