Compound Mitre Saw

After reading some of the other posts, maybe I need to upgrade! :D:highfive::crossed::bounce::bliss:
View attachment 59056
Rennie not to pick on Dewalt but I have not found one yet that cuts true enough for trim work. For framing sure but trim and siding not so much especially when you have to change the angle a lot. As for the deflection I would put that all on the blade. Too dull and too many teeth and speed of cut to fast.
I would say if your thinking about upgrading to go and use as many different kinds as you can. Don't get stuck in the brand name game or the that guy said this saw is the best. Check feel of the slide. Does it wobble/ is it smooth? make several cuts with it are they true? change the angle cut a piece is it true? Put it back to zero and cut one is it true? Do that a few times back and forth to different angles and zero. Does it cut true on every stop in the table? Is it comfortable to use? Can you see the cut clearly? Is the table to big or to small? Can you see the adjustments clearly? How hard is it to lock/unlock the tilt? Can you reach it and see the gauge? Both ways?
 
Good posts Chuck and I agree with both.
Just for the record I had a 12" Dewalt CMS and I loved the handle on it but after replacing the fence 3 times due to it bending and also the pivot pin almost coming out I got rid it. Will never buy a Dewalt saw again. I would be willing to bet that 98% of the fences on the Dewalts are not straight and they bend when you cut something that is not setting against the fence flat and when you make your cut the board snaps back against the fence after just a few times it bends the cast aluminum one piece fence. Then you chase the saw trying to make square cuts that will never happen.:huh::huh:
 
Good posts Chuck and I agree with both.
Just for the record I had a 12" Dewalt CMS and I loved the handle on it but after replacing the fence 3 times due to it bending and also the pivot pin almost coming out I got rid it. Will never buy a Dewalt saw again. I would be willing to bet that 98% of the fences on the Dewalts are not straight and they bend when you cut something that is not setting against the fence flat and when you make your cut the board snaps back against the fence after just a few times it bends the cast aluminum one piece fence. Then you chase the saw trying to make square cuts that will never happen.:huh::huh:

I have that same problem with my Hitachi:thumb::doh:
 
I use my CMS quite a bit. I use it to cut a square end off a board, to exact length, or to cut miters.

The problem with using the table saw is the set up time, I have my table saw set up for ripping. If I want to crosscut, I have to remove the fence, put on my sled and make the cut. Then tear it down and go back to the rip set up.

I don't use a miter gauge on my table saw so all my angle cuts are made on my CMS, or with a jig using a sled on my table saw (for long cuts).

Summary, the CMS is one of the most used tools in my shop, probably equal in use to my table saw.

Mike

read his post, it is exactly how I feel.

and most of the lumber I buy is 8 feet or longer.
Its a pleasure to lay a board down on the mitre and cut to rough length before I even do any processing of the piece.
And when I need multiple boards same size, I find it simple to do.
 
Last edited:
Good posts Chuck and I agree with both.
Just for the record I had a 12" Dewalt CMS and I loved the handle on it but after replacing the fence 3 times due to it bending and also the pivot pin almost coming out I got rid it. Will never buy a Dewalt saw again. I would be willing to bet that 98% of the fences on the Dewalts are not straight and they bend when you cut something that is not setting against the fence flat and when you make your cut the board snaps back against the fence after just a few times it bends the cast aluminum one piece fence. Then you chase the saw trying to make square cuts that will never happen.:huh::huh:

Good point Jay and that reminds me of a few more things one should do. Check the fence for straight If it's not straight at the store new it never is going to be. What is the fence made out of? Is it one piece? How does it adjust? If the fence looks flimsy it is and will probably bend under the force of the saw cutting a board.Look at the safety guard is it in the way? How hard is it to move out of the way to change the blade? Does it have a lot of plastic part that it counts on to work (Some Makitas Have plastic nubs that it counts on to operate. It does not take long for those nubs to wear out and break) (About a year right Allen) What is the angle stop? What locks the angle?
Sorry to get off track Rob:thumb:
 
I've got an old Delta 10" with the same problem...weak fence! I have to cut my work on the long side, then trim to final with the work only against one side of the fence...don't know if that made sense... I'll try again...if the work piece doesn't 'straddle' the fence on both sides of the blade, I'm good to go. I've got an RAS and TS jigs, but still wouldn't give up my/any CMS!
Remember "He who dies with the most toy's wins!" :thumb::D
 
I cant argue with the safety blade guard issue.

the stability of the arm and accuracy of the saw seems top notch.

a gear broke in my powermatic bandsaw, and the motor on my new ridgid tablesaw had a loose nut on the fan that needed repair, and my jet mortiser had a slight dent on the vent that needed to be replaced.I totally trashed my 735 planer by dropping it several times, and now it works better than ever, go figure.
and as far as machine part failures, the convertible arm on my finely tuned german made auto failed a couple of weeks ago. I just put 350 miles on the car the past 2 days at constant speeds exceeding, well, I dont want to admit I broke the law, but I was cooking, and I never felt unsafe.

I dont think one part of any tool is a good way to rate the tools overall performance or dependability.

Im just a mechanical moron so I get frustrated easily when I have a part failure.

The slider for me, is a very handy machine, accurate enough for me, my joints are tight, and gets more use or as much use as any machine in my garage.
 
I cant argue with the safety blade guard issue.

the stability of the arm and accuracy of the saw seems top notch.

a gear broke in my powermatic bandsaw, and the motor on my new ridgid tablesaw had a loose nut on the fan that needed repair, and my jet mortiser had a slight dent on the vent that needed to be replaced.I totally trashed my 735 planer by dropping it several times, and now it works better than ever, go figure.
and as far as machine part failures, the convertible arm on my finely tuned german made auto failed a couple of weeks ago. I just put 350 miles on the car the past 2 days at constant speeds exceeding, well, I dont want to admit I broke the law, but I was cooking, and I never felt unsafe.

I dont think one part of any tool is a good way to rate the tools overall performance or dependability.

Im just a mechanical moron so I get frustrated easily when I have a part failure.

The slider for me, is a very handy machine, accurate enough for me, my joints are tight, and gets more use or as much use as any machine in my garage.

Not saying look at just one part of the tool Allen. You look the whole thing over and when your done you will know the good and the bad of each tool you look at and be able to make an informed purchase. No tool is 100% perfict so once you look them over you will know what you are willing to deal with and what you just can;t settle for.
 
Well this has been a most interesting post. Chuck you aint off topic you bang on.

You make very good points. When i bought the saw i will admit to being a total idiot. What i knew about a CMS was minimum. So I bought the biggest most flexible version of a dewalt 12 inch slider that was around.

Its not a bad saw. But like you say Chuck you gotta check it all out and tune it up etc. I put a real nice freud blade on it and even put a zci into the center bar.

I think as a construction saw this would be tops.

But if i want a piece of mahogany trimmed square for the purposes of shoulders on the edge of tennons then i think my table saw is best.

Allen you must either be very heavy on your tools or you had a total run of bad luck with mechanical stuff. Touch wood i dont have these issues.....yet. But to be fair i think you get to use you machines a whole bunch more.

Thanks Chuck for taking the time on the detailed input.

Getting through the marketing hoopla is the difficult part. I aint come across a single store where i can test machines before i buy.

I have often thought these machine stores dont know what the heck they doing.

A while back i went to a LN road show held at a local lumber yard. Well you could pick up and use and cut samples of wood with a workbench being handy with vice and all and not just one but several. All the LN tools were there and they could not write up the orders fast enough there was a line up. If that does not say something about letting people like us try out the tools before we make a purchase and having someone knowledgable around to help out.

The thing is when you a hybrid DIY, hobbiest, furniture wanna be maker the range of applications you want to use the saw for ends up making you choose flexibility as opposed to fit for purpose.

Sometimes it really does make sense to rent a tool for a specific purpose.
Then buy a version of the same for a more dedicated frequent specific purpose.

The real good thing is with having access to the pool of resource here we can cut through the marketing hoopla when needed. :thumb::thumb:
 
I use my Makita CMS in conjunction with the tablesaw all the time. Any time angle or compound angle cuts are involved the CMS is the go to saw. For breaking down long boards or cutting many pieces of the same length again I find this tool ideal. I have spent the energy to adjust the Makita dead on and this ensures repeatable accuracy----My 2 cents worth
 
Top