Need help - Table leg design/wood chalenges

Rennie Heuer

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I've just received a commission to produce an end table, probably in walnut, that looks "just like this but without the shelf".

4310002_WO0026.jpg4310002_WO0026a.jpgend_table.jpg

Can anyone point me to a tutorial or magazine article that explains the best way to make these legs?:huh::huh:

Also, a design query - Should we go with nothing in place of the shelf, or, do you think the design will require stretchers?:dunno:
 
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I'd have to find a tutorial, but basically you'll cut the curves on the bandsaw. Save the cut-offs as you'll need to tape them back onto the legs to keep them square for cutting the other sides of the legs.

Here's a video, same idea as cutting cabriole legs, this guy uses hot glue instead of tape:

http://www.mefeedia.com/video/28294559
 
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WOW, that was fast. I kind of expected they might cut similar to a cabriole leg.

Now, on to the second question - stretcher or no stretcher? Or does it matter?
 
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Depending on the joinery at the top, wouldn't think you'd have to have a stretcher, but depends on what the client wants and how it's going to be used. If it's going to hold a marble sculpture or a delicate piece (that could fall if wobbly), it may be warranted. For an end table that holds a lamp and a cup of coffee once in a while, it looks like it would look good without any.
 
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darren beat me to it but i fully agree with his thoughts rennie..and even if it held a heavy weight good mortise and tenons will hold alot more than most realize..
 
If you do a stretcher are you gonna do a diagonal one? In other words front right to back left and front left to back right.
 
Rennie thats a nice shaped leg in my view. personally i would like it without any shelf or stretcher.

When you do make it, how about drawing the pattern on sketchup. I would love to give it a go and try making a leg with that shape. Seems to me there are three cuts involved if i am understanding the picture. its kinda like a leg with pointed foot at each corner with the calf going up the rear towards the middle.

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I'm starting on this table this week. The first challenge was shaping the leg. Good advice here has lead me to purchase a book and I think I'll be drawing it freehand. I spent a couple of hours with SU and editing curves is eluding me.:(

The second challenge is the wood. I have a stack of 5year old, locally harvested, air dried walnut that I will be using. Problem is, when I had it sawn I did not think to have any 2" thick pieces cut. So, I will give a try to gluing up a 2 x 2 square from the 1" thick stock I have and give it a whirl. I'm hoping that if I rip a board with relatively quiet grain into two 2" strips and fold it over on itself and face glue it, the seam should be near invisible.

Has anyone tried this? Am I wasting my time? Do I need to drive to Michigan and get real 2" thick stock?:dunno::dunno:
 
I'm starting on this table this week. The first challenge was shaping the leg. Good advice here has lead me to purchase a book and I think I'll be drawing it freehand. I spent a couple of hours with SU and editing curves is eluding me.:(

The second challenge is the wood. I have a stack of 5year old, locally harvested, air dried walnut that I will be using. Problem is, when I had it sawn I did not think to have any 2" thick pieces cut. So, I will give a try to gluing up a 2 x 2 square from the 1" thick stock I have and give it a whirl. I'm hoping that if I rip a board with relatively quiet grain into two 2" strips and fold it over on itself and face glue it, the seam should be near invisible.

Has anyone tried this? Am I wasting my time? Do I need to drive to Michigan and get real 2" thick stock?:dunno::dunno:

Regardless, a trip to see the great bearded one is always great. :thumb:

i would glue it up rennie. try to find the board that was cut right after the one you have in your hand in the group another words put your log back together,, that way your grain will match as close as possible..
as far as coming over to my world ..anytime rennie and steve you should practice what you preach in this travel idea:):rofl::rofl:
 
Like Larry said, If you can match up your flitches you should be in great shape.
The next best thing is as you said ripping and folding back on itself.
 
One problem with legs is that the quartersawn side (with the fine grain) looks great, and the flat sawn side (with the cathedrals) looks ugly. I sometimes cut a veneer from the quartersawn side and glue it to the flatsawn side to make the leg prettier. It sounds like you have a great opportunity to solve the grain problem when you glue up the blank for the leg.

With big aprons like that, I don't believe you will need stretchers.
 
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