G&G Inspired Chest of Drawers - Build Thread

[glenn bradley]

glenn i see you have some triangles that you use for square checking,, how did you make sure they were square. measurment?? and if so what was the size you made them? looks like something that would help out many of us on panel glue ups to make sure they are right before they are set up in the clamps

Those were made on my sled once it was aligned using the 5 cut method to within .001" over 12". I have a half dozen of the large at about 12" on the 90* legs and 4 of the small at about 6" on the 90* legs. The 45* side was not taken into account as they are (as you noticed) clamping squares. Very handy for large carcasses but, as shown I also use them just to double check or to "assist" things into square. I have used them on large piston-fit drawers and have come to trust them despite their humble appearance .

Glenn I am glad you returned to the table saw because i thought thats how i would do it and i dont see the merits of the jig.

The jig was touted as a good solution for tenoning or lapping long boards that would be unwieldy on the table or bandsaw. As I sometimes do, I became enamoured with the idea and tried to use it for something other than the solution it is. Maybe this "fiddling gene" is what slows my progress on my pieces to some degree . The dado stack and sled was the clear winner with the web frame pieces (they were under 36"). If I were lapping an 8 footer, . . . maybe.

[allen levine]

And to think I was going to make a smarmy remark about how I cannot match the Rennie / Allen pace and beg folks to take it easy on me

.

pace or no pace, there will never be a day when my work could hold a candle next to your work or Rennie's work.
I do have fun though.

[Toni Ciuraneta]

Thanks a lot Glenn for posting the whole process. At times I feel like I need a table saw, and you and your posts have a lot to do with it.

Unfortunately the prices of good table saws here are prohibitive. the rest are pure junk.

Look forward to see the development of this project

[Rennie Heuer]

pace or no pace, there will never be a day when my work could hold a candle next to your work or Rennie's work.
I do have fun though.

Hey! Don't lump me in with Glenn! My work only looks good because I take the pictures and don't show the mistakes, dents, finishing mistakes and poor joinery!

Glenn's an artist!

[glenn bradley]

Thanks a lot Glenn for posting the whole process. At times I feel like I need a table saw, and you and your posts have a lot to do with it

We'll see how you all feel in a month or so when I am still posting about the same piece .

Many folks make many fine pieces without a tablesaw in sight. It just happens to be how I learned. I always enjoy learning new things but, giving up my tablesaw might not be a lesson I would rush to learn .

Hey! Don't lump me in with Glenn! My work only looks good because I take the pictures and don't show the mistakes, dents, finishing mistakes and poor joinery!:

Shhh, quiet Rennie. You're going to give away the secrets to our 'success' .

[glenn bradley]

Four of the corner pieces are 7-7/8" wide. I like to leave a little more fat than that when sizing parts so the planer sled got dug out of the wall rack and put to work.



Ahh, a good bit oversize and nary a sign of the snipe monster.



Some of the other boards I want 3/4" pieces out of are only about 25/32" to start. I will have to percolate for awhile on whether to use them or re-saw into this fat boy.



I may have to work on the Garrett Hack wall cabinet door tomorrow whilst I ponder this . . . .

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[larry merlau]

glenn, in the old furniture they would quite often have rough surfaces inside a area that wasnt seen, so that could make use of your thinner than wanted lumber..you really dont want to cut up a nice piece of 8/4 for some thinner boards..and if you dont like the rough surface idea you can just alter your thickness to accept the thinner boards after clean up..no one will know they are thinner but you

[glenn bradley]

Larry's words have inspired me to move ahead. I have been under the weather for 2 days and so have done nothing except for the last couple hours of today. I know, excuses, excuses. I use 1/4" MDF for templates and faired the cloudlift curve for the side stiles. I cut close with my little 10" bandsaw and then use files, shaves and such to pull the curve to where I want it.



This is a little hard to explain but, there are cloud lifts on the side stiles rotated 90* (so the lift is actually a widening of the opening). The end result is an open space that echos a tsuba shape and will be filled by a split floating panel assembly (I should just be quiet, my explanation is more confusing than pure silence).

At any rate, there will be a large stopped rabbet on each stile to accept the panel which will be locked in by the web frames and so forth from behind. I swear it will make more sense a few posts from now.



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[glenn bradley]

I'm still swinging . . . I square out the ends of the stopped rabbet and set up the router table to cut the through rabbet that will accept the second piece of the corner stile.



This seam has to be pretty clean to achieve that vanishing effect that makes the corner stiles appear to be one piece. I use the router table to set up the marking gauge and use it to run a score along the cut line.



I use the small bandsaw to rough cut the cloud lift. Double stick the template to the blank and have at it.



This gives you a general idea of the floating panel appearance. None of the softening of the curves has been done at this point. The ever-handy medium shoulder plane makes for a nice fit.



I clamp it well and go inside to post on the forum . . .



oh wait, I'm already here . Anyway, by the time I have another blank ready to clamp up this one should be set enough to place off to the side.

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[Rennie Heuer]

I am sooooo enjoying this thread.