A new turner's attempt....C and C please

Dom DiCara

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I have been turning for about a month now and wanted to show y'all some stuff I did.

Being that I am an extreme novice, I used Oak firewood for every item. This way if I messed up too bad, it would go into the fireplace anyway:D

Please feel free to comment and criticize the work.

Also....what do you use for finish and how far down do you sand?

I have been going down to 800 paper and using sanding wax. Then clear varnish with CA glue for a finish. I want to try utilizing the new buffer now that I have one. So do most of you folks use Danish oil and then buff?

Thanks in advance
 

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Dom,

I'm "novicer" than you by two weeks and not really qualified to say yea or nay. But to me, they're beautiful! Keep it up.:thumb: All I've done so far is a few pens from kits that came with my midi. Not even photo worthy yet. But, hey, I'm getting there....only 500 to go.

Joe
 
Dom,

I'm "novicer" than you by two weeks and not really qualified to say yea or nay. But to me, they're beautiful! Keep it up.:thumb: All I've done so far is a few pens from kits that came with my midi. Not even photo worthy yet. But, hey, I'm getting there....only 500 to go.

Joe

Joe.....what special attachments do you need to do pens?
 
Dom i think your first are a lot better than my first, by far. As far as finishes i think you are gonna get a lot of different answers on this. What i do is sand to 400 don't skip grits. then i'll ether use danish oil, shellac, or blo. just depends on what i have left in the shop.:rofl: next after it dries, i'll spray it with rattle can gloss lacquar. I'll put at least 4 to 6 coats on,let dry then knock down with steel wool. let sit for a week or so then wax and buff. Hope this helped a little.:wave:
 
Dom, you must be of the "serious" class of newby woodturners; the kind that gets out there and turns - a lot. Shoot ... you have already matched or exceeded what I usually turn out in a year!

Overall I think you're doing great, and you're right where you should be on the learning curve. Still, you asked for C&C, so here's my take. Remember, it's only one man's opinion....

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Pic 1
====
Nice design, and pretty ambitious
icon_cool.gif
for an early piece. I assume that the piece on the left is the lid/cap for the piece on the right. (Can you post a pic with the pieces put together?)

As you move along that learning curve, you'll probably find yourself turning pieces like this with somewhat thinner walls. It's a funny thing about oak though; thicker-than-usual walls seem to work somehow.

The upper lip on the bottom piece seems a little taller than necessary.

The "waist" on the bottom piece seems a little thin (or maybe too "abrupt" the way it goes in and back out, with no real stem) but seeing the two pieces assembled together would give a better perspective.

I'm not sure about this, but perhaps the base should equal the max diameter of the shape above it? Again, it will be easier to "decide" when the two pieces are assembled, but my impression is that it will "feel" a little top-heavy or tippy.


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Pic 2
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I really like this one. The thick walls seem to work just fine. Perhaps the upper "lip" could be shortened a tad, but it's not bad. Good job!


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Pics 3 & 4
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What a great little "sphere"! :thumb:

If this piece is meant to hold something flammable like a tea light or candle, it should probably sit on a wider base ... like the left-side items in pics 5 and 6. It could just be the angle of the photo, but it seems almost too spherical to keep from tipping

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

Keep on turning Dom; you're doing great! :wave:
 
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I've been turning for ten years. MY first tries were on where no where as good as these.

I applaud you use of OAK. It is not the easiest wood to turn.Cudos.

The only problem I see is in the last picture - left side. The form seems a little dumpy.

Shortening the form, might balance it.

Just my opinion, not necessarly a law.

Bruce
 
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Dom i think your first are a lot better than my first, by far. As far as finishes i think you are gonna get a lot of different answers on this. What i do is sand to 400 don't skip grits. then i'll ether use danish oil, shellac, or blo. just depends on what i have left in the shop.:rofl: next after it dries, i'll spray it with rattle can gloss lacquar. I'll put at least 4 to 6 coats on,let dry then knock down with steel wool. let sit for a week or so then wax and buff. Hope this helped a little.:wave:

Thanks Stephen...that helps a lot:thumb:
 
Dom, you must be of the "serious" class of newby woodturners; the kind that gets out there and turns - a lot. Shoot ... you have already matched or exceeded what I usually turn out in a year!

Overall I think you're doing great, and you're right where you should be on the learning curve. Still, you asked for C&C, so here's my take. Remember, it's only one man's opinion....

====
Pic 1
====
Nice design, and pretty ambitious
icon_cool.gif
for an early piece. I assume that the piece on the left is the lid/cap for the piece on the right. (Can you post a pic with the pieces put together?)

Will Do. That was my first attemp at a hollow out design. I had a real hard time getting a clean cut. Then I realized that my lathe speed was too low, and the gouge needed to be sharpened.



As you move along that learning curve, you'll probably find yourself turning pieces like this with somewhat thinner walls. It's a funny thing about oak though; thicker-than-usual walls seem to work somehow.

The upper lip on the bottom piece seems a little taller than necessary. How tall do you think it should be?
The "waist" on the bottom piece seems a little thin (or maybe too "abrupt" the way it goes in and back out, with no real stem) but seeing the two pieces assembled together would give a better perspective.

I'm not sure about this, but perhaps the base should equal the max diameter of the shape above it? Again, it will be easier to "decide" when the two pieces are assembled, but my impression is that it will "feel" a little top-heavy or tippy.


====
Pic 2
====
I really like this one. The thick walls seem to work just fine. Perhaps the upper "lip" could be shortened a tad, but it's not bad. Good job!


========
Pics 3 & 4
========
What a great little "sphere"! :thumb:

If this piece is meant to hold something flammable like a tea light or candle, it should probably sit on a wider base ... like the left-side items in pics 5 and 6. It could just be the angle of the photo, but it seems almost too spherical to keep from tipping

The LOML said the exaxctly the same thing! Great minds................. and yes, I sized it to hold a tea light
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

Keep on turning Dom; you're doing great! :wave:


Thanks buddy...this really helps a lot
 

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I've been turning for ten years. MY first tries were on where no where as good as these.

I applaud you use of OAK. It is not the easiest wood to turn.Cudos.

The only problem I see is in the last picture - left side. The form seems a little dumpy.

Shortening the form, might balance it.

Just my opinion, not necessarly a law.

Bruce

That piece actually got a severe gouge on it. Hence the short height. I figured I would use it for change, car keys, etc.

What finish do you usually use for oak? I really want to get a mittor finish on it.

Thanks in Advance
 
I bought a mini lathe about a year and a half ago. I was really interested in turning pens and some bowls.

I turned a few bowls that looked no where near as good as yours. They look pretty darn good to me. :thumb:

I just can't seem to get away from flatwork but I still have the urge from time to time to turn something. When that happens Larry pm's and slaps me behind the head :rofl:
 
I bought a mini lathe about a year and a half ago. I was really interested in turning pens and some bowls.

I turned a few bowls that looked no where near as good as yours. They look pretty darn good to me. :thumb:

I just can't seem to get away from flatwork but I still have the urge from time to time to turn something. When that happens Larry pm's and slaps me behind the head :rofl:

Bob

I got this Grizzly Lathe the same time I got the Grizzly Bandsaw off of craigslist. It was my birthday, so the LOML bought them for me.

When the guys and gals here found out I had a Lathe, they all warned me about the addictive nature of woodturning...(turn to the dark side etc.) Man they were right about woodturning being addictive. It is a load of fun and the good part of it is, if you mess up, throw it in the firewood stack out back!:D

Thanks for the compliment as well. I learned about 75% reading the forums here.

I have to get away from flatwork, as much as it hurts, due to health reasons. Small and light projects are no problem, but items like the 6 foot dresser I made are just too much. Hard to concentrate when your back is killing you.

I am starting on maple and oak from firewood right now, but once I get more comfortable. I will branch out into the more expensive woods. Sharpening was a big skill I had to learn, and Cap'n Eddie was a huge help there. And getting a riser kit on my Grizzly BS was an ordeal to get it lined up. Robs thread on Band Saw tuning was a big help there.

Amazing how many skills are needed to do woodturning. I think a lot more then Flatwork.



But it sure is a whole lot of fun.

Thaks for responding and for the compliment
 
Bob

I am starting on maple and oak from firewood right now, but once I get more comfortable. I will branch out into the more expensive woods. Sharpening was a big skill I had to learn, and Cap'n Eddie was a huge help there. And getting a riser kit on my Grizzly BS was an ordeal to get it lined up. Robs thread on Band Saw tuning was a big help there.

Amazing how many skills are needed to do woodturning. I think a lot more then Flatwork.



But it sure is a whole lot of fun.

Thaks for responding and for the compliment

No pun intended right?! :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Great work Dom! Looks like some high quality firewood you got there to turn with!
Those pieces really came out nice!
 
====
Pic 1
====
[...]
The upper lip on the bottom piece seems a little taller than necessary.

How tall do you think it should be?

You kinda have to think about it from two directions:
1) How much of a lip is needed to keep the top on securely?

2) What is the "end user" going to expect when they pull up on the lid? It may be too short (or loose) if the top comes right off with the slightest touch. On the other hand, if they have to lift the lid too much before it will swing off to the side, it may be too tall.​
To my eye, you could cut it down by half.

I've never turned anything like the piece in your first pic, but maybe a sorta-similar example will help. I don't know if you saw my [Double-Take Keepsake Box] thread. That box has the lip in the lid instead of the base, but here is an extra pic that I didn't post at the time:

A590_2067_SouthwesternVesselBox_SeparateParts_UpsideDown.jpg


I think your taller lid deserves a more substantial lip to hold it in place, but you may find that people who go to look inside will knock the base over because they start swinging the lid free before it has cleared the base.

Make sense?
 
No pun intended right?! :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Great work Dom! Looks like some high quality firewood you got there to turn with!
Those pieces really came out nice!

Thanks Rich. It was just regular firewood delivered by a guy off of craigslist. We are kind of restricted to wood species down here in Florida. So most of the firewood here is maple of oak. Pretty cheap as well. This load was $125 for a full cord, delivered and stacked believe it or not.
 
You kinda have to think about it from two directions:
1) How much of a lip is needed to keep the top on securely?

2) What is the "end user" going to expect when they pull up on the lid? It may be too short (or loose) if the top comes right off with the slightest touch. On the other hand, if they have to lift the lid too much before it will swing off to the side, it may be too tall.​
To my eye, you could cut it down by half.

I've never turned anything like the piece in your first pic, but maybe a sorta-similar example will help. I don't know if you saw my [Double-Take Keepsake Box] thread. That box has the lip in the lid instead of the base, but here is an extra pic that I didn't post at the time:

A590_2067_SouthwesternVesselBox_SeparateParts_UpsideDown.jpg


I think your taller lid deserves a more substantial lip to hold it in place, but you may find that people who go to look inside will knock the base over because they start swinging the lid free before it has cleared the base.

Make sense?

100% clear. I did read your thread. What struck my on you box was the way you disguised the gap where the lid meets the box. Looking at it, it was next to impossible to spot any gap whatsoever.

Next piece I turn will have your design where the lip is on the lid. I think that will give me a tighter fit when the 2 pieces are put together.

I really appreciate the response!:thumb:
 
Dom, you have done real good, for a beginner.

Wait til you get to segmented turning. It is a vortex within a vortex. Kind of like the movie Inception where there were dreams within dreams.
 
You're off to a great start, Dom. :thumb: As has been said, oak is not a real cooperative wood on a lathe, especially for a beginner. I think you'll find you like maple much better.

Critique-wise, you're still at a point where you're experimenting with tool techniques and form ideas, so I'm not going to worry about some of the finer points. In general, I'd suggest working on trying to make your curves continuous from one transition to another. For example, on the first piece you showed, the curves between the finial at the top and the stem at the base have some flat spots to them. In contrast, the second piece has more flowing curves, especially in the body of the piece. (You can see a slight break in the curve in the collar on that second piece, though.)

The little bowl in the next two pictures has a very nice curve...your best of the bunch here. The last two pieces go the other way and show unevenness in the curves from top to bottom.

As you get more experience and look at the work other turners do, you'll get a better feel for spotting things like broken curves or uneven transitions. Once you can see them, you can begin to chase them away from your own pieces. :thumb:

All that said, you're off to a great start. Carry on! :D
 
I'm sure someone will be starting a pen blank swap soon. Be sure to sign up for it.

In the meantime is you want to try your hand at it I'd be happy to send you a bunch of blanks.

Thanks Bob for the offer. That is really neat that you would do that. Before I ask. Let me get all of the other hardware and tool accessories first.

Thanks again Bob:thumb:
 
Dom, you have done real good, for a beginner.

Wait til you get to segmented turning. It is a vortex within a vortex. Kind of like the movie Inception where there were dreams within dreams.

You guys were not kidding when you said "When you start turning you get sucked into the vortex :)"

Thanks for the compliment...I will keep working at it
 
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