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Thread: Sharpening question

  1. #1
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    Sharpening question

    Well due to many of you neanders here I have been hit with the plane bug (mainly blaming Larry as I see his all the time and drool) so in the last month or so I have acquired 4 new to me stanley planes, #3C, #4C, #5C and a #6C Still want a 5 1/2C, 8C, and if I happen upon an affordable #2 I will jump on one. (yes pics to come soon) SO to my question, 1st I have a work sharp 3000 (thanks Vaughn) which works well for sharpening chisels and narrow plane blades but #2 I want to set up a scary sharp system for my plane blades. I already have the glass for attaching the sandpaper (2" thick 24" x 30" bullet proof glass from an old bank) Just need to know what grits of paper I need to use for sharpening.

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
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    Tom,
    start with 100-150, then 220, 320 and 400.

    If you want to go all the way with scary sharp, you can then go 800, 1500 or 2000, and then some of the mylar films in microns, or the green LV 0.5 micron honing compound on a piece of MDF.

    I do my flattening with the grits above, then after 800 go to a stone, water or oil.

    Glad to hear the bug bit you. If you are thinking of getting a #2, consider a used LN if you can find one, it'll cost about the same as a Stanley 2. Honestly though, it's not a very useful plane.

  3. #3
    Ken.....how do you attach the paper to the glass?

    Does the glass have any special quality or thickness? If I got a piece of say 3/8" glass from a local glass dealer would it work?
    Ken
    ------



  4. #4
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    Thanks Ken since I am such a total rookie at this, how far is it necessary to go? past 800 really necessary or totally necessary? and I really didn't think a #2 is a must but they are sooo cute

  5. #5
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    I use 3M spray adhesive, I think it's No. 77. I use 3/8" glass I bought from a local glass shop, they had some leftovers, with rounded polished edges [important for safety] and about 5" x 12". They cost, IIRC about $5 each. Some of the best money I ever spent. Just call around and see if any place has some scraps. You can also use a piece of granite leftover from a kitchen counter fabricator, should be able to get that cheap too.

  6. #6
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    What about the granite tile at the borg? They are pretty inexpensive and seem to be polished to be able to give a pretty uniform reflection.
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
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  7. #7
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    Yes you need to go well past 800. But remember Tom that I am a fanatic. I finish with either a black ark oilstone or an 8K waterstone, then may or may not strop.

    Brent thanks for bringing up the tile, yes you can do that too. They are smooth on one side, rough on the other. With glass, you can put sandpaper on both sides.

  8. #8
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    3M No 75 is a removable adhesive and 3M No 77 is a permanent adhesive which is best (we use it at work for many applications) cleans off glass easy with a razor blade and alcohol

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken werner View Post
    Yes you need to go well past 800. But remember Tom that I am a fanatic. I finish with either a black ark oilstone or an 8K waterstone, then may or may not strop.
    Thanks Ken, more stuff to buy

  10. #10
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    Tom, I've used the No. 77 adhesive, but it's a pain to get off my granite tile. (From the Borg. Score one for Brent.) ;D It might come off glass easier, though. I think I'll try the No. 75 when I get a chance to see if it's better, or if it introduces other problems.

    When I first got set up to do the scary sharp thing, I bought a combo pack of fine to superfine abrasive sheets from somewhere on the web. As I recall, it started at 1200 and went to something ridiculous like 0.5 microns. On the finest one, it's hard to tell which side of the Mylar film has the abrasives on it. That's probably overkill, but like Ken said, you'll want to go finer than 800 grit. I also like the green Lee Valley honing compound...Ken got me started on that stuff.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
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