Glenn said, Do a Thread on That

Hi,

Lowe’s Ducting (to my Griz BS)

I mentioned to Glenn that the hard DC ducting to my Grizzly BS was from Lowe’s. (This Excludes the 6in ducting going to the DC, blast gate and a piece of “stay put” flexable ducting). The stay put duct exits from a small box I made that fits under the table, right next to the blade. This 2.5in duct terminates in a wye going into 4in ducting that ends in the six inch going to the DC itself.

Anyway, Glenn thought some members might be interested. So here are the pics and a brief description.

The first pic is an overall view from the operator’s side of the saw. This shows the 4 inch duct terminating into the six inch main duct.

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Second: This is under the table on the backside (away from the operator). The 15 inches of stay put ducting comes from a box I made. It is just under the table and held in place with magnets. Glenn saw this idea someplace and modified it for his Grizzly. I had to do it a bit differently since my Griz is slightly different than Glenn’s. It is amazing how well it works.

The stay put feeds into a wye. The wye consist of 4 in flow straight through with the 2.5 in feeding into the main air stream at a 45 degree angle.

View attachment 60279

Third: This shows the 2.5 inch duct into 4 inch wye, the blast gate and two 45 degree els. The two els make a 90 degree turn. Notice on the BS, just to the left of the motor, there is a 4 in opening coming out of the saw. This is to attach another hose. With this system it does not need another hose. In fact it is not even closed.

View attachment 60280

Fourth: This is an “aside” slightly off of the topic. This is a pic inside of the lower wheel cover. The sawdust in there has NOT been cleaned out. What is there is all that is there since the DC was attached to the BS several months ago.

View attachment 60281

Fifth: Meanwhile back at the Dust Collection Plumbing from Lowe’s. (Understand that any big box hardware/home store will have the same. So will places that sell to plumbers, landscape workers and others. I just happened to purchase it at Lowe’s).

This is the non-operator side of the saw and the ducting. Notice the standard 4 inch plumbing pipe and els. To attach a piece of 4 inch flex to 4 inch plumbing els, tees, wyes, etc. cut off a four inch piece of pipe and fit one end into the el. Two inches of the regular pipe fits into the fittings for 4 inch plumbing. The 4 inch flex will stretch enough to slowly fit it over the pipe extending out of the el. I doubt that it will work if it is cold.

View attachment 60282

Tomorrow night (hopefully) I will show pics of the small box that fits under the table next to the blade. I think the pics are good enough that most 17 inch Griz BS owners can make one. I say most owners because the design of the saw has been improving over the years. I made a mock up using cardboard from a box, blue tape, razor knife, scissors and a bit of patience. (the last phrase in that sentence will come as a surprise to Glenn and Myrna) If you need help PM me.

View attachment 60360

OK I added a pic. However you have to lay down to view it properly. Notice the piece of 1/8 inch thick plywood that was added just after the blade enters the lower wheel well. This is a Zero Clearance Insert so to speak. The dust carried down by the blade now goes through a small compartment and is moved out into the 4 inch duct. There is also a brush that wipes the inside of the blade in this compartment.

View attachment 60361

If you look at the thread "Glenn n JimB BS Total Dust Collection Solution" (or a name very similar to that) you will see what feeds the 2.5 duct just above that 4 incher.



Good night.

Enjoy,
JimB
 
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Looks real good, Jim! :thumb:

When I added permanent DC to my G0513, I used the top and bottom ports on the machine. I get excellent dust pickup, with the exception of a little bit in the area directly under the table. I like the way you adapted the 2.5" tubing to take care of that. I can see a modification in my future!
 

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help me out here jim??? how does the side hole catch so much of your dust that you dont need the bottom hole and why is it still open? to me your not getting as much suction with that open:huh::huh::huh:
 
Wow, Jim, pretty slick.

One thing... that is all fixed tubing, isn't it? So there is no moving that bandsaw? I just struck me funny that you've got a mobile base, but with the ducting you really can't move the saw.

I also have the "stock" two 4" ports hooked up on my Griz 5013. I'll have to open the lower door and check out how much dust is missed!
...art
 
help me out here jim??? how does the side hole catch so much of your dust that you dont need the bottom hole and why is it still open? to me your not getting as much suction with that open:huh::huh::huh:
If you look at Jim's photo of the lower door open, you can see a deflector at the upper port through which the blade runs. That makes the upper port more efficient. I hooked up my lower port because it's there, so there's never any dust in the bottom compartment.
 
Looks great dad.

P.s. No one doing a search on Bandsaw Dust Collection will ever find this thread. I would add some tags or add something to the title that will help others find this thread when searching in the future ;-)
 
If you look at Jim's photo of the lower door open, you can see a deflector at the upper port through which the blade runs. That makes the upper port more efficient. I hooked up my lower port because it's there, so there's never any dust in the bottom compartment.

Quite true. I did that on my saw and added it for dad during a visit. I get about a teaspoon of dust per year in the lower compartment. I sealed off the lower port.
 
Quite true. I did that on my saw and added it for dad during a visit. I get about a teaspoon of dust per year in the lower compartment. I sealed off the lower port.
My G0513 came with the deflector and a small brush that the blade touches lightly. I know I'm gonna have to add the small hose under the table now that I've seen it on Jim's saw. I only get a "little" dust under there, but after a few weeks it piles up if I don't tend to it! :)
 
well jim ,, can you show us the detail on the shelf addition to catch more dust??

Larry, Art, Bill and Others,

I added two pics to this thread in the original section at the top. They should help. Better yet see the new thread. I cannot remember the name exactly but it is very close to Glenn n JimB BS Total Solution DC. It was posted today 9-28-11. It shows all of the details. I think there are about 8 pics there.

Art, the 4 inch BS ducting disconnects from the six inch main ducting quite easily. Then I could move the BS and all of its ducting as a unit. If I stay true to form I may do that in 3 or 4 years when I have purchased some machine that I don't know about yet. The saw is not meant to be moved on a whim. Lots of planning went into the saw's location. Gads I sure sorry I wrote that. I can just see some essential reason for needing to move it coming up next week---Murphy, you know.

Everything in the shop except lumber storage can be moved. Most of it moves using a Johnson Bar; that includes the workbench.

Bill, There is virtually no dust outside of the machine either. It is the cleanest machine in the place now.

Enjoy,

JimB

If I move the Griz BS the "hard" plumbing will move with it. Then the 6 in main plumbing will need to be modified to take the BS in its new location---a wye or 45 degree el added for example. The 6 in plumbing may have to be modified where the Griz BS is moved from. It might be as simple as attach another machine to the 6 in wye and that is it. Or it might be that the Wye will have to be removed and a section of plain pipe will need to go in that stretch.
 
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Looks like a great idea Jim and something to think about incorporating into my Grizzly bandsaw, but just a few questions. How do you tilt your table top with that set up? Do you have to remove it each time and how easy is it to remove and put back on? and if you do tilt it do you have to hook up the lower port then? How do you block off the upper port if you did this? :huh:
 
Thanks for all the detail Jim but also the great way you write ;).

The results you have achieved make me wonder why Delta in making my version of their 14" saw took off the dust collection port that on earlier models i have seen was located under the table in optimum position. Instead they choose to put a single extraction point at the bottom of the lower wheel housing.
It certainly cannot be said to have been done for cost reasons for it complicated the base manufacture and build.
Had the just done a bit of the experimentation you and Glenn have they could have simply added that little baffle plate and achieved amazing results.
Really great thread I can see any manufacturer worth their salt get in on copying your ideas. But oh i forgot why would they they know better than the people who use their product. ;):)

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 
Wow, Jim, pretty slick.

I also have the "stock" two 4" ports hooked up on my Griz 5013. I'll have to open the lower door and check out how much dust is missed!
...art

Art, This system also picks up all of the dust that normally ends up on top of the lower wheel well and drifts on down onto ducting, BS base, floor, etc.

That little box idea I got from Glenn, REALLY WORKS.

Enjoy,
JimB
 
Looks like a great idea Jim and something to think about incorporating into my Grizzly bandsaw, but just a few questions. How do you tilt your table top with that set up? Do you have to remove it each time and how easy is it to remove and put back on? and if you do tilt it do you have to hook up the lower port then? How do you block off the upper port if you did this? :huh:

Drew,
I remove it when I tilt the table (which is very seldom). I just reach up, don't even need to look, and pull the box off to the front of the saw. All that holds it in place are two 3/4 inch earth magnets. The magnets are inserted so they are flush with the wood. It just hangs there, in air, while I work. It is not in the way. I just leave it open. A tapered wood plug, a cork, Deep lid from a detergent (or whatever) bottle stuck, very lightly, in the hole would stop the air entering. If you use flex duct instead of the kind that you can move and release, the duct will contract, rapidly, if the end is plugged. You should make allowances for that.

I do not remove the duct from the wye.

With vacuuming of any kind we have to remember that it is NOT VACUUM, it is movement of air. The better we can make the air go where we want it at an adequate speed the better the "vacuuming" job we get.

Enjoy,

JimB
 
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