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Thread: Semi-frozen Morse 2

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Oceanside, So. Calif. 5 mi. to the ocean
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    Semi-frozen Morse 2

    Hi,

    I have a Delta 46-460 lathe. The center is quite difficult to remove from the tailstock. If I use the knock out bar, it just knocks out the central attachment leaving the revolving center in the Morse 2 of the tailstock.

    If I use a wood block on the back of the bearing and hit it with a hammer, nothing happens. If I use a half inch dia. steel bar and hit it with a mallet, nothing happens. If I hit the steel bar with a ball pein hammer a few times, it will come out.

    A less radical method of removal would be appreciated.

    Thanks and Enjoy,

    JimB
    First of all you have to be smarter than the machine.
    VOTING MEMBER

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    North West Indiana
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    6,097
    Jim, how often are you removing the item? If I leave the spur drives in the headstock of my mini lathes in the school shop over summer, I encounter the same situation you talk about. Once I knock them loose and students are taking them out and putting them in daily, this issue disappears. Maybe when done for the day, take the spur drive or whatever is the issue out?
    Jon

    God and family, the rest is icing on the cake. I'm so far behind, I think I'm in first place!

    Host of the 2015 FAMILY WOODWORKING GATHERING

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    ABQ NM
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    Jon, I think it's the live center that's stuck in the tailstock.

    Jim, most tailstocks these days have a self-ejecting quill. You should be able to turn the handle counter clockwise to the point where the quill is pulled all the way into the tailstock. Then turn it a little more, and the live center should come out. If you have really jammed the live center into the quill, it may take a fair amount of force, but you should be able to do it with the handwheel alone.

    From the User's Manual:

    Quote Originally Posted by 46-460 User's Manual
    REMOVING THE LIVE CENTER

    To eject the live center (F) Fig. 9, turn tailstock crank (P) Fig. 8 counterclockwise to retract the quill. As quill retracts, the live center contacts an internal ejecting pin. When it does, you will feel the crank get harder to turn. Turning further past this point loosens the live center for
    easy removal.
    If it's difficult to get the live center out that way, it's an indication that you're cranking it down too hard onto your workpieces. (That can be hard on the headstock bearings.) If the spur center is well-seated into the wood, you shouldn't need more than firm pressure from the tailstock to keep a piece on the lathe. I often make an "X" with a chisel for the spurs of the spur center to engage with. Actually, I do these steps:

    1. Use a mallet to lightly tap the spur center into the spot on the wood where I want it to go. This is just to mark the "X" where the spurs hit the wood.

    2. Remove the spur center and using the "X" mark it just made, take a 1" bench chisel (I use an old beater with a broken plastic handle), and give it a good whack or two in each half of the "X" to deepen it.

    3. Put the spur center back in place on the wood, aligned with the newly-deepened "X", and drive it firmly into the workpiece with a mallet.

    4. Then mount it on the lathe.

    5. Turn, turn, turn.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  4. #4
    Jim,

    as Vaughn stated.....most are self-ejecting but.....

    tighten the lock on the quill....then unlock it but don't turn the lock handle more than 1/2 a turn when you do. Then back the quill out and see if it will self-eject.

    On mine, when you unlock the quill, if you turn the locking lever/knob more than 1 turn or so, it will not auto-eject the center....
    Ken
    ------



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    North West Indiana
    Posts
    6,097
    That is what I get for not comprehending what it was I was reading! Eyes contacted the fingers before turning on the brain. My brains have begun to leak!!

    Disregard my post Jim and go straight to Vaughn's. Yep, self ejecting.
    Jon

    God and family, the rest is icing on the cake. I'm so far behind, I think I'm in first place!

    Host of the 2015 FAMILY WOODWORKING GATHERING

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Cape Cod, Ma.
    Posts
    1,553
    Dont feel bad Jonathan, I did the same thing a few weeks ago. completely forgot about the self eject feature and was pounding away with a mallet and the brass knock out rod...... I figured mine out accidentally when I cranked tail stock all the way and the live center just popped out.....
    He who laughs last, thinks slowest

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
    Posts
    11,825
    My first thought was the inside needs a good cleaning.
    Remember Tod's technique for permantely installing the chuck into a drill press that has an M2: spit on quill, insert and leave alone for a while.
    Works.
    For easy removal they need to be clean.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan View Post
    Jon, I think it's the live center that's stuck in the tailstock.

    Jim, most tailstocks these days have a self-ejecting quill. You should be able to turn the handle counter clockwise to the point where the quill is pulled all the way into the tailstock. Then turn it a little more, and the live center should come out. If you have really jammed the live center into the quill, it may take a fair amount of force, but you should be able to do it with the handwheel alone.

    From the User's Manual:



    If it's difficult to get the live center out that way, it's an indication that you're cranking it down too hard onto your workpieces. (That can be hard on the headstock bearings.) If the spur center is well-seated into the wood, you shouldn't need more than firm pressure from the tailstock to keep a piece on the lathe. I often make an "X" with a chisel for the spurs of the spur center to engage with. Actually, I do these steps:

    1. Use a mallet to lightly tap the spur center into the spot on the wood where I want it to go. This is just to mark the "X" where the spurs hit the wood.

    2. Remove the spur center and using the "X" mark it just made, take a 1" bench chisel (I use an old beater with a broken plastic handle), and give it a good whack or two in each half of the "X" to deepen it.

    3. Put the spur center back in place on the wood, aligned with the newly-deepened "X", and drive it firmly into the workpiece with a mallet.

    4. Then mount it on the lathe.

    5. Turn, turn, turn.
    That is some good advice I just learned.........thanks
    Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsmen can hide his mistakes!

    The Bible tells us to love our neighbors, and also to love our enemies; probably because they are generally the same people.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Oceanside, So. Calif. 5 mi. to the ocean
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    Removing stuck Morse 2

    Thank You All,

    Jon, I have not turned a bowl for a couple months. I did not remove the spur nor the revolving center from the lathe during that time. I just did spindle work. The spur came out with just a slight extra pressure. The problem was on the tailstock end. No, the self-eject did not eject.

    Vaughn, I turned the knob as hard as I though prudent. It was like turning a bolt into a steel plate; it felt like that was the absolute end.

    Ken, thanks for your info. I normally spin the the lock lever a rotation or two. I will try to be less exuberant.

    Frank, I clean the Morse 2 tenon and mortise parts each time I change things. My shop may not be neat, however, I tend to be very clean with machine parts.

    Thanks Again Guys (No gals replied. Maybe I should shower more often.) (Just kidding. I am a very clean person.)

    Enjoy,

    JimB
    First of all you have to be smarter than the machine.
    VOTING MEMBER

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Oak Harbor Washington on Whidbey Island
    Posts
    3,134
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim C Bradley View Post
    Thank You All,

    Jon, I have not turned a bowl for a couple months. I did not remove the spur nor the revolving center from the lathe during that time. I just did spindle work. The spur came out with just a slight extra pressure. The problem was on the tailstock end. No, the self-eject did not eject.

    Vaughn, I turned the knob as hard as I though prudent. It was like turning a bolt into a steel plate; it felt like that was the absolute end.

    Ken, thanks for your info. I normally spin the the lock lever a rotation or two. I will try to be less exuberant.

    Frank, I clean the Morse 2 tenon and mortise parts each time I change things. My shop may not be neat, however, I tend to be very clean with machine parts.

    Thanks Again Guys (No gals replied. Maybe I should shower more often.) (Just kidding. I am a very clean person.)

    Enjoy,

    JimB
    Sniff sniff sniff hmmm must be the brains....
    "Forget the flat stuff slap something on the spinny thing and lets go, we're burning daylight" Bart Leetch
    "If it ain't round you may be a knuckle dragger""Turners drag their nuckles too, they just do it at a higher RPM"Bart

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