I got the hankering for some sawdust today, but didn't want to do any fretwork on the scrollsaw. As John will attest, I love stressing my scrollsaw blades by cutting thicker stock than most folks would think of trying.
Today's project are a few blanks which I'll shape with my router, spoon plane and probably dremel and 80 grit plane into some wooden spoons. I started out with a piece of dunnowood.
I drew a spoon shape on it and began cutting. You'd have thought I had a bucking bronco on the table, not a 3/8 thick piece of wood. Now I'm used to holding the workpiece down on my saw, as I don't have hold down feet on it, but this was Not normal. I couldn't for the life of me figure out what was wrong, until after I finished the cut.
Then it hit me, the jumping was from the blade pulling UP on the wood. Normally the teeth pull the workpiece down into the table, holding it down, except for the last 3/4 " or so on a reverse tooth blade (which I prefer) Time to check the blade out;sure enough, my son had been the last one to use the saw, and he had installed the blade upside down!
I flipped the blade end for end and finished cutting out another blank, this one out of 3/4 Maple.
That is where the 'stressing out' comes in. Ever try and cut 3/4 rock maple with a #5 blade? slow and steady is the only way to get the job done, eventually. I still have to hold the wood down , but it is just the normal amount for my saw.
Here is the maple cut out.
As you can see I'm working on another smaller maple spoon as well. For reference, the larger blank is just over 12" long, the smaller one I'd estimate at about 6".
Isn't the figure in there pretty? Going to be a very nice spoon, once I'm done.