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Thread: Building lacquer

  1. #1
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    Building lacquer

    I am working on some drums and I am using a satin nitro lacquer. I want a thinner finish so I tried 3 or 4 coats then sanded it flat. I still had some slight indentations from the grain on the hickory and I didn't want to sand any further because I thought I was close to going through so I sprayed another 3 or so coats on it. When I looked at it after those next coats the grain indentations where much larger than they were before the 2nd round of coats. Sooo I sanded it flat again with 400 grit and almost had the grain dents out when I started seeing wood. I just started a 3rd round of coats and the grain dents are move visible again. I am using minwax brushing lacquer and no sealer. Is this because I didn't use sealer?

  2. #2
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    I've never worked with hickory, but here's a typical schedule I use:

    Start with a bit of BLO/Naphtha to bring out the grain, let it cure a few days, then seal with several coats of dewaxed shellac; sand to 220. On mahogany, I've used a grain filler at this point to help flatten it. Sand to 220. Next, I spray on a couple of coats of NC lacquer and sand with 320 to flatten it. Then, a final topcoat of NC and let it cure. All of the finish products I use to this point are clear gloss to build depth. I rubout with FF pumice, then rottenstone to get the desired sheen; i.e., satin, semi-gloss, etc.
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  3. #3
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    Get yourself a can of grain filler. Then get back to me and I'll walk you through it.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  4. #4
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    Would this be a good one?
    http://www.targetcoatings.com/shop/p...2oz-78-11.html

    I know it is water based so I can't use it with solvent lacquer, after I finish the 2 drums I am working on I will be switching to water borne lacquer most likely this stuff
    http://www.targetcoatings.com/shop/c...quer-32-1.html

  5. #5
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    That will work. Just follow the directions. I usually put the filler on after I seal and sand.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  6. #6
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    I am an avid Target Coatings fan, but I like this grain filler - Behlen's water based... It works well under both waterbase and solvent based finishes, dries fast. So fast that it is a little hard to wipe, but since I sand off any filler left on the surface anyway, that isn't a big deal to me.

    http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2004...in-Filler.aspx

    Behlen's filler is mineral based - when you pick up a can, it is much heavier than you would expect, like there is a rock in it. Behlens provides the carrier and glue that seals the fine ground mineral into the surface and gives a super smooth surface. I use the brown even on a light wood such as oak, since I want the pores to be dark, not white. DAMHIK.
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  7. #7
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    David how the drums turn out.

    Behlins grain filler is what I use also. Great product.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hawksford View Post
    David how the drums turn out.

    Behlins grain filler is what I use also. Great product.
    they look awesome, i'll try to get a pic tonight. I didn't use any grain filler on these, but next time I will. I ended having to fix a crack in one of the drum shells when I was at the buffing stage so I had fix the lacquer, it was pretty easy with the nitro lacquer, Does the water borne stuff fix easily? The stuff I was looking at (target em6000 and general finish enduro water borne lacquer) is 100% burn in but I think its only with in a certain time frame. I have heard that denatured alcohol can be used to achieve burn in when not in the time frame, never tried that or the water borne stuff so don't know yet.

  9. #9
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    here they are, I am waiting on the chrome hardware for them, should be here friday. I used satin winwax lacquer, but then I decided to buff them out to a gloss. Its a little hard to see in the pictures but there is some curly figure in the hickory.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0296.jpg   IMG_0297.jpg   IMG_0298.jpg   IMG_0300.jpg   IMG_0301.jpg  

    IMG_0302.jpg   IMG_0303.jpg  

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Black View Post
    ...The stuff I was looking at (target em6000 and general finish enduro water borne lacquer) is 100% burn in but I think its only with in a certain time frame. ...
    I use Target EM6000 - I am not aware of a time limit for the burn it. In fact it even burns into NC solvent lacquer (at least to some degree). It does dry in minutes for dry sanding and/or recoating, but allow 5 days to cure before doing any rubbing compounds or wet sanding.

    I have not heard that General Finish Enduro lacquer had burn in, so I went to the spec sheets, and did not find a claim of any burn in.
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

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