1. Cut to rough dimensions (rip, crosscut, what have you) - if the board is not safe to rip on the TS, i use my bandsaw.
2. Face joint one surface in the best direction for the grain to minimize tearout.
3. Run it through the planer the right direction as above. Now I have a rough edged board the proper thickness and is perfectly straight/parallel on those faces.
4. Now that I have 4 options, pick the edge that will joint best based on grain direction. Having two flat surfaces eliminates being locked into going against the grain on the entire length of the board (no accounting for changing grain!)
5. Rip to final width. Once jointed, i have 3 good surfaces, all square with one another. Safest condition on the TS.
6. Possibly joint the ripped surface, but usually don't need to. On burn-prone species like cherry, I will rip about 1/32" wider than needed and joint off the scorching.
Lots of folks do the joint, joint, plane, rip, joint method. It works much of the time, but I find myself getting trapped in going against the grain more often than I'd like. It does mean a trip back and forth between the jointer and planer, but having 4 choices gives me the most flexibility and I find it really doesn't take that much time. If you're in that much of a hurry, I'd consider a different hobby