Mohammad this is an aspect that i think does not need loads of cash spent on special tools to get right.
The most important part is understanding what has got to happen and how to get it to do it.
Then you can get the setting right with a variety of devices and some of the most simple ones are the best.
In the case of the jointer i do think that 1 way gauge is tremendous but my view is its very applicable in Stus case with an old machine and the way there are only two blades in his case.
But the key is understanding what he was doing and how to go about it. It also does take practice.
First time i did some of my machines all that really happened was me getting familiar with them and their adjustment points. It took me a while to get a "feel" as to what is real and what is just never gonna happen on my machines given the category they in.
There were also aspects that i never expected would need tuning that made a difference that have nothing to do with any purchaseable gauge.
Consider this , on a table saw at the low end there is no gaurantee that your arbor is running true. Then how much is true and acceptable.
One needs to consider that the arbor like most of the belt driven machines is running as a overhanging weight to the bearing its running on.
This applies in the case of the bandsaw as well but not a jointer.
In the jointer the blades are supported both sides by bearings.
The arbor of a table saw blade and bandsaw lower wheel have no support on the other side.
When i set my saw up without the blade and put a dial indicator on the flange supporting the blade i discovered significant run out.
This run out was not through wear in the bearing but rather poor manufacture of the part. (its not a million dollar machine).
So little things like this can make a world of difference and are not difficult to fix. I was not the first to come across this fact.
The same for the nut and washer holding my blade on. They are cheap and been pressed. So to the washer was not making contact evenly across its surface same for the nut. Well simply running them on some 400 water paper and smoothing them out relying at that time on the bed of the table saw made a noticeable difference in my saw.
Only after i had done this did i then get the mitre slot aligned with the blade.
I had chased that problem back and forth for sometime before curing it.
This is what i mean about getting more familiar with the machine.
Same for bandsaw. I have a book did all the tune ups etc. But it took reading about vibration from Iturra catalog to have me look into where the drive pulley was secured on the drive wheel shaft that took a load of vibration out of my machine and it was night and day when i then tried resawing a thin piece. This aspect was never mentioned in any of the things i had read. In my case i took for granted that the pulley had been put in the right place at the factory...NOT.
I still think if i could spend time with some on this forum while they do their machines i would learn 1000% more. So be prepared it a road you walk with a journey. Jigs help but i seen many videos where pros just use very basic items like set squares and get real good results just because they trully understand what is to be achieved and when to stop.
Best of luck. Remember you got quiet a knowledge base here so you aint alone.