Oak floor lamp with stained glass shade -Build thread

Frank Pellow

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Oak floor lamp with stained glass shade -Finally Completed

This is a project that I started earlier in the year and put aside for a while. Now, I am starting again and plan to complete the lamp and give it to Margaret (my wife) for Christmas.In this post I will describe the work that I did on the project last spring.I spent a couple of months searching the internet for designs of arts and crafts lamps. Finally, in April, I found a design that I like in a book I spotted at Lee Valley. The book is entitled ‘Boxes, Clocks, Lamps & Small Projects and it is published by Woodworker’s Journal. Here is a picture of a Prairie Style table lamp made from quarter sawn oak with opaque glass from Kokomo Glass of Michigan (who made the glass used by Gustav Stickely).Prairie lamp 00 -Photo from Woodworker's Journal book.jpgI believe that I can extend the design to make a floor lamp for our living room.The real trick to making this lamp is the many shop-made jigs employed in making the frame for the lampshade. I spent a day and a halfall working on these jigs and used them to make a prototype half-frame out of pine. Prarie lamp 06 -Testing adjacent sides of the prototype lampshade frame for 90 degree fit -small.JPG Actually, this is my second prototype and it is a little too big.Here is the tablesaw jig used to make the mortises and tenons at the 55 degree frame ends:Prairie lamp 01 -Mortise and tenon jig for lampshade frame -small.JPG Prairie lamp 02 -Mortise and tenon jig for lampshade frame -cutting a mortise -small.JPGI took a stained glass course at for 8 evenings at a stained glass store in downtown Toronto and, at the store, I spotted some glass (also made by Kokomo) that will work for the lamp and will fit in with the colours in our living room. Here is a mock-up of the design that I think I will use:Prarie lamp 10 -Simulation of an idea for glass -small.JPGI think that it is a good compromise between the “glass only” design that I started with and the more complicated “vertical herringbone strip down the middle” design that my stained glass instructor Caroline suggested. I hope that the lamp itself, will be a “work of art” and that this will compliment but not overwhelm the woodwork. So, I built a real panel:Prairie lamp 11 -A bout to solder together the pieces of a prototype glass segment -small.JPG Prairie lamp 12 -Protype glass segment up against a lamp bulb -taken with flash -small.JPG Prairie lamp 13 -Protype glass segment up against a lamp bulb -taken withou flash -small.JPG I do like it and expect that I will do something quite close to this for the real lamp, but I want to show the design to some folks and I want to think about it some more. I do have time, because I will be building the lamp as a present for Margaret next Christmas and I will build the real frame before making the glass panels to fit into it. There are three things I want to think about changing:
  1. Is the fact that one can see the light-bulb through the dark blue glass going to be a problem?
  2. Should the four light blue and amber panels form a continuum, as they do in the mock-up. Or can they be a contrast as in the prototype
  3. Should the proportions be changed or, perhaps, should the design itself be changed?
 
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Here is an extract from my weekly journal written in late May:

I’ve talked to several people about the glass for the lamp and everyone likes the glass exactly as I have done it. I did make one slight enhancement and that was to apply copper patina to the solder. Here is a photo taken after the copper patina has been applied:

Prairie lamp 13 -Protype glass with copper patina on the solder  -small.JPG

I have made a small start on cutting the quarter-sawn white oak lamp-shade frames. I have just enough wood for the lamp-shade frames but must purchase more for the lamp itself.
 
... There are three things I want to think about changing:
  1. Is the fact that one can see the light-bulb through the dark blue glass going to be a problem?
  2. Should the four light blue and amber panels form a continuum, as they do in the mock-up. Or can they be a contrast as in the prototype
  3. Should the proportions be changed or, perhaps, should the design itself be changed?

1. Could you try a piece of translucent white material inside the blue to diffuse the light a bit so the bulb isn't so apparent?
2. I like the continuum.
3. The proportions look fine to me.
 
Thanks for the advise Bill.

I like the suggestion about the white glass (or other material) behind the blue. Im not sure how I would attach it, but I will experiment.

I have decided not to go with a continuum.
 
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I tried Bill's suggestion: "place translucent white material inside the blue to diffuse the light a bit so the bulb isn't so apparent" but all three pieces of transucent glass that I tried blocked too much light.

I am still looking for some sort of diffusion globe as suggested by Bart. If anyone knows of such a thing, I would appreciate hearing from them.
 
I'm no help on the diffuser, but I do like the design of the glass panels. Nicely done. :thumb: Personally, I don't mind the fact that the bulb shape was visible behind the glass. I see it as the nature of a glass lampshade.
 
Weekly Update as of Nov 13:

I did make a little bit of progress this week. But, not a lot of progress because I am waiting for this 6/4 quarter sawn oak to acclimatize to my woodworking shed:

Prairie Lamp 17 -6-4 quarter sawn oak getting accliamitized in woodworking shed -small.JPG

The progress that I made was to solder together the pieces of the glass and to put a copper frame around the assemblies:

Prairie Lamp 16 -All stained galss has been assembled -small.JPG

I could have done more but I got off on a tangent this week on a a seperate stained glass project that involves no woodworking at all. I spent between 40 and 50 hours working on this dragonfly:

Dragonfly in stained glass -4 =Zinc frqame has bee attached -small.JPG Dragonfly in stained glass -3 -Seeing how it looks in the light -small.JPG

When I started learning how to do stained glass work about a year ago, it was done stricktly so that I could "jazz up" some of my woodworking projects but, much to my surprise :doh:, I find that I like the stained glass work at least as much as woodworking.
 
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Yes, stained glass can be a whole 'nother career rather than a side note to woodworking. Frank, your artistic and attention to detail show through as much in the endeavor as it does with everything you set out to accomplish. I have no suggestions other than, keep on working on the wife's lamp, Christmas is just around the corner!
 
December 5th Update:

I am getting back to this thread after a goof and a recovery from that goof both documented in the thread:
http://familywoodworking.org/forums...rder-to-deal-with-a-BIG-GOOF-that-I-just-made

The frame was assembled by gluing one corner at a time, clamping each joint until the glue dried, then moving on to the next corner:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/membe...ld-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=44776;imagePrairie Lamp 27 -Gluing the frame together one joint at a time -small.JPG

The frame was screwed together as well:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/membe...ld-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=44778;imagePrairie Lamp 28 -The frame was screwed as well -small.JPG

The grooves were filled with walnut wedges cut with 59 degree angles. I designed a jig to cut the wedges:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/membe...ld-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=44782;imagePrairie Lamp 31 -Another look atr the jig -small.JPG Prairie Lamp 30 -Using the jig to cut a walnut wedge -small.JPGhttp://festoolownersgroup.com/membe...ld-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=44791;image Prairie Lamp 32 -Walnut strip cross section.JPG

After letting the glue dry on a wedge, it was trimmed at the top using a fine-toothed hand saw:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/membe...ld-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=44795;imagePrairie Lamp 33 -Trimming the top of the glued-in wedge with a handsaw -small.JPG

I hope that it will look like I planned the lampshade frame this way. I will put a bit of walnut in other places on the lamp in order to help make it seem that this was planned.

The lampshade is now assembled temporarily but I need to take the glass out in order apply a finish. I have
not yet decided which finish to use. The plane in the book call to fume the oak, but I am certainly not going to that. I decided to apply a black patina to the solder and to the frame (in case any of it shows), but the patina that I have would not colour the copper frame around some of the panes. I solved this by melting a very thin layer of solder over the copper, than applying the patina to that layer.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/membe...ld-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=44797;imagePrairie Lamp 35 -Melting thin layer of solder over the copper edging  in order to be able to app.JPG

Each pane of glass is held in with a narrow strips of screwed to the top
and the bottom of the frame:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/membe...ld-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=44799;imagePrairie Lamp 36 -Screwing molding at both top and bottom in order to hold glass -small.JPG

Thus, the glass will be easy to remove if necessary.

Here is how the lampshade looks right now:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/membe...ld-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=44801;imagePrairie Lamp 37 -Lampshape frame assembled -now working on piece to fit in the top -small.JPG

I am still working on the top piece (to say nothing about the rest of the lamp).
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