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Thread: small cherry writing desk

  1. #1
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    small cherry writing desk

    very simple, tapered legs, mortise and tenons, very small pencil/pen drawer, will use tiger maple for the drawerfront if I can find the pieces I have without killing myself moving 2000 lbs of lumber.

    Im just very unhappy with the green cherry and some of the boards are common with knots.
    Learned a lesson about buying wood on the internet, no matter how nice the people were, the quality of their lumber doesnt cut it for me.

    So any suggestions how to fill in this knot on the tabletop? (I miscalculated and turned a board the wrong way and thought Id be cutting the knots out, but had knots on the other side, couldnt trim it enough)
    I tried some glue and sawdust, its smooth, but I dont know how it will take stain.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cabinet 085 (Medium).jpg   cabinet 087 (Medium).jpg  
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  2. #2
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    1. Rout for a dutchman and match the grain as close as possible.

    2. Make a 'design element' with a bowtie across the joint and repeat the same for the other side.

    3. Do a marquetry element (leaf or whatever in contrasting wood).
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  3. #3
    Or some black epoxy.

  4. #4
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    or dye the are you have filled with some trans stint and then like bill said make it part of it..it appears to be centerewd well on the end so i vote to do as bill said or leave it and color it to match a knot color..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Arnold View Post
    1. Rout for a dutchman and match the grain as close as possible.

    2. Make a 'design element' with a bowtie across the joint and repeat the same for the other side.

    3. Do a marquetry element (leaf or whatever in contrasting wood).
    since I have absolutely zero experience with any type of inlays except for a straight line, Id think Id mess it up alot more trying to match a grain and getting the cut exactly right without a inlay bushing/bit.
    I think the easiest way out for me is to try the epoxy, if I dont like the way it looks, Ill just cut the top down and reglue it.)
    If youre not busy bill, I would love to have you come visit and do some inlay work on it. Dinner is on me.
    Last edited by allen levine; 11-15-2011 at 10:23 PM.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by allen levine View Post
    ... If youre not busy bill, I would love to have you come visit and do some inlay work on it. Dinner is on me.
    Thanks for the invitation, Allen. But this old southern boy gets the shakes in Yankee land!

    (Besides, I'm far from an expert on inlays. I've done some but only simple stuff so far.)
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  7. #7
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    Black epoxy or using a very dark magic marker should work ok, if you can make it look like a dark knot.
    If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the precipitate.

  8. #8
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    I was playing around with it last night. There wasnt much of a hole, so I dug out the glue and sawdust, then took some sawdust mixed with a drop of poly. Made a past, let it set, but while it was drying I took out a little artists paint brush and touched the area with very dark stain. It dried, and I still didnt like the feel, so I used some crazy glue on top of the knot, smoothed it out, let it dry. Now I have a knot that is dark, but with the cherry stain, I think it will work.
    I will not make any tops or front panels with knots anymore. Little knots ok, but no more 1/2-3/4 inch knots, no more.
    I stained the bottom of the top to see how it would look, and its a bit darker than I care for, but a little color wont kill me.
    Id still prefer waterlox finishes, but for this small table I didnt want to lay out 85 bucks for 2 quart cans of original and gloss.
    Ill finish assmebly tomorrow and start sanding down the top to a finer grit, then work on the leg sections and aprons.

    I popped together a birch ply drawer for it today, when I get on the armoir build I will have the PC omnijig set up and I will remake the drawer using solid maple, with a dovetail joint.Until then, the plywood drawer is fine.
    Last edited by allen levine; 11-17-2011 at 02:52 AM.
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  9. #9
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    the knot looks like a knot, I can live with it, but wont make a top again with a knot.

    so I took 2 steps foward, but 3 steps back.

    I finally make my drawers correct sizes so they fit the slides well. Ive always seemed to have a problem, but lately, havent had to remake any drawers.

    My original design had a 3.5 inch wide apron, but when I looked at it, it didnt look quite right so I made the aprons 3 inches.
    Unfortunately, I didnt change the drawer height measurements and I couldnt fit the drawer in tonight.
    booooouuunggg! Had to smack myself in the head, the mind is slipping fast.
    I carefully looked where I had pins, and cut the drawer on the TS in half.
    Put it in place, then reglued the top back on.
    Just have to take off the slide when Im ready to make a new drawer.
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  10. #10
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    and now that Im thinking about it, I realized Im a bigger idiot that I thought(when I tried to explain it to my wife and told her Im a bigger idiot that I thought I was, she said shes known that for years)
    Now that the glue has dried, I cannot unscrew the back screw on the drawer part of the slide, since its not possible since the slides are attached to a piece that I was going to use as a runner.
    wow, Im really sinking on this one.
    Now I will have to take a jig saw and just cut the drawer in half from the bottom, carefully of course, shoulda just made the dovetailed drawer.
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