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Thread: Band saw blade drift solved

  1. #1

    Band saw blade drift solved

    Well I just learned something a few days ago about blade drift on the band saw. I found out how easy it was to get rid of. It was so simple that I couldn't believe it. All this time I have been adjusting my fence and could never get it consistent with blade changes. I ended up making the blade tracking on the center of the upper wheel and then proceeded to make sure the miter gauge slot on the table was parallel with the blade and then aligned the fence to the miter gauge slot.

    I got a cheap home depot brand 3/8" blade that had a few miles on it and proceeded to rip a few pieces of wood and they came out straight and parallel. I couldn't believe it so I got a different piece of wood and got the same results.

    Now the real test was putting in my good 1/2" blade I got from woodcraft. I checked the tracking to make sure it was centered and got the same results as the cheap 3/8" dull blade. No drift what so ever.

    All this time I've been fighting with blade drift and all I had to do was a few simple alignment checks that we normally do on our table saws.

  2. #2
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    Yup! When I got my Grizzly G0555 I spent a bunch of time just setting it up and used the 3/8 blade that came with it to start. Got good straight rips right out of the chute and when I put on a "real" blade (Olson Brand), it still cut just fine with no drift. Set up on any machine is 99.9% of preventing any future problems. Glad you had good results.

  3. #3
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    would you go into more detail alan on how you aligned the table to the blade..you mean from under neath or just threw the upper wheel adjustment..to me a 3/8" wide surface isnt very much to register off of??
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
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  4. #4
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    My G0513 17" bandsaw has crowned tires, so I have always adjusted the tracking to give me a straight cut rather than mess with the fence. Same with my new G0555 14". Bandsaws with flat tires do require fence adjustment, as I understand, but I'm glad I don't have to deal with that.
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  5. #5
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    Bill whats your method to achieve this? Do you do it by trial and error. Cutting after each adjustment?

    Because i had same concerns as Larry re Alans method re referencing off a strip as narrow as 3/8" to align a mitre guage slot.

    Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
    cheers

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Keeble View Post
    Bill whats your method to achieve this? Do you do it by trial and error. Cutting after each adjustment? ...
    Trial and error, mostly. I keep a 1/2" Woodslicer on my 17" saw. I've learned about where the blade needs to be visually from doing a lot of re-saw. I use a scrap of 2x4 to test before cutting anything serious.
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Newby View Post
    Yup! When I got my Grizzly G0555 I spent a bunch of time just setting it up and used the 3/8 blade that came with it to start. Got good straight rips right out of the chute and when I put on a "real" blade (Olson Brand), it still cut just fine with no drift. Set up on any machine is 99.9% of preventing any future problems. Glad you had good results.
    When I got my Griz 0555 setting it up and doing the adjustments was a real learning curve. I had no experience and no one to turn to for advice. That might have been the best way to learn. Now, changing blades, using is second nature. I don't have blade drift and do not (and never have) adjust the fence for drift. IMHO, sharp and proper tension are the most important factors.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  8. #8
    Well by getting the saw adjusted properly it didn't matter if the blade was sharp or dull. I tensioned with the flutter method.

    As far as aligning the blade to the miter slot I used the steel rule from my combination square up against the blade till there was no gaps between the two. I did it numerous times just to see if I was consistent and it came out the same every time.

    Larry I loosened the bolts holding the trunnions to the top and shifted the top till it was aligned. Basically just like you would do with a table saw.

    I take some step by step photos and post them.

  9. #9
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    Thanks Alan and Bill for the responses.
    cheers

  10. #10
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    Congrats Alan. I'm with Bill A. I am sure saws/blades that drift are out there because people always seem to be talking about them. Of the half a dozen or so saws I have owned or used I have not had trouble simply aligning/tuning them to track "straight". This includes my old tilt-head Craftsman and my current plastic-wheeled 10" Rockwell/Delta. I seem to change blades a lot so changing my setup for drift is not an option. I change between 3/4", 1/2" and 3/8" on my larger saw and 1/4" and 1/8" on the little guy without readjusting anything except the guides. If its luck, I sure hope it keeps up .
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