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Thread: Turning Larger Vases

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Palm Springs, Ca
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    Turning Larger Vases

    Well its Christmas and hope all of you here have or had a great time ...............We got up and opened gifts and the kids took off for friends until Christmas dinner later in the day. So, I helped out around the house and had about 4 hrs or so to myself so I headed out to turn something.

    I decided to try to turn something large and long so I took some measurements to see what the max would be based on how deep I could go with my forestner bit and extension. I came up with a boring depth of 2 feet. Mounted up a decent size log and rounded it - put a tenon on it - flipped it around - attached my steady rest - set up a long drill bit and drilled to depth - then set up a 3" forestner with the extension (i have a bed extension on my Jet lathe) and started boring it out. Boring was into endgrain and it did take a bit of time - boring at 600-700rpm and 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time until I got to my required depth. This was about the max I could do with the headstock all the way to one end and tail stock at the other with the forestner and extension in place - there was barely any room left before the bit would enter the pc.

    See pictures below...............
    Pic 1 - setup
    Pic 2-3 - roughed turned and now inside to dry - total height from bottom of vessel to top is 2' 1/2"

    Question: If I wanted to make the vase longer in length than the 2' im thinking the only way would be to buy a longer drill bit from somewhere and drill it out to depth by hand...........thoughts or has anyone bought a longer bit ?......im not concerned about the travel from the drilling as it will be hollowed out anyway.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sunday-1.jpg   Sunday-2.jpg   Sunday-3.jpg  
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
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    Can't help ya on that one Dan as I never drill. I guess I just don't see a need to. That is going to be a nice HF. Are you going to do any embellishments on it? I could see some nice pyrography or some airbrushing. Hope your Christmas was good Dan. We are down spending it with grandson and son. Had a great meal last night as son brined and smoked a turkey. Soooo good. Merry Christmas Dan to you and yours.
    Bernie W.

    Retirement: Thats when you return from work one day
    and say, Hi, Honey, Im home forever.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.

  3. #3
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    Bernie.......guess im looking for more explanation from you on your comment on you don't see the need to ?? I would agree on smaller vessels i can cut out the center fairly easy
    using my monster hollowing rig and small cutter (3/16 I think). However, on larger logs and cutting thru end grain it seems to be to much of a chore to cut it out. So
    for me to make the hollowing easier I bore a hole to the depth I want first then start the hollowing.

    When its ready Im thinking that some pyrography and depending on the color of the wood Ill either leave it and rub in a few coats of oil - dry well - several coats of lacquer - knock down and wax finish
    If the wood is to bland I may use analine dye but when I can I perfer the natural look of the wood ..............ill keep you posted when i get that far
    Airbrushing is a thought to..............................thanks Dan
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tellico Plains, Tennessee
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    4,351
    For the deeper hollowing how about a lamp drill bit or a spoon bit? I think they have some length to them.
    Chuck
    Tellico Plains, TN
    https://www.etsy.com/shop/TellicoTurnings
    My parents taught me to respect my elders, but it's getting harder and harder to find any.
    If you go looking for trouble, it will usually find you.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
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    Dan I was just commenting that I don't drill. I attended a couple of demo's early on when I started turning one being Mahoney and another by a turner named Hasiak. Neither drilled but they both used hollowing tool to drill a little at a time. So that is how I learned to hollow and just haven't seen a need to drill. My longest has been 16" or slightly longer and I get a little anxious at that depth with a lot of tool hanging over the tool rest. Maybe drilling would make it more comfortable for me to turn at that depth but don't have plans for any big ones.

    Dan will be interesting to see what you do with this one.
    Bernie W.

    Retirement: Thats when you return from work one day
    and say, Hi, Honey, Im home forever.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Richmond, MI near Port Huron
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    64
    Hi Dan ya don't hear much from me but I'm out hear watching. A member of our club turns long vessels, one piece and segmented. One part of his system goes like this. 1. Mounts between centers, Turns for #3 chuck jaws, turns basic shape for size and turns another tenon for #3 jaws on the oppisite end. 2. Chuck up and mount steady rest. Drill center hole as far as he can reach. 3. The timber is turned end for end and chucked up. His steady rest is always in place. 4. He drills in the other direction to meet the first hole. 5. Bring the tailstock up and turn to shape. 6. Hollow to thickness. Turning end for end again and installing a floating bottom. 7. Rechuck with your deep reach system and finish the top.

    I've seen this system and the results. This is how I remember it and how I plan to do mine if I ever get that kind of time in the shop again.
    I hope this is helpfull and I made it understandable.

    Guy

  7. #7
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    Over the years I have had occasional need for long drill bits. I have had spade bits and augers lengthened by having a machinist weld extensions. One is over 3' long. They work but the downside is they do not push shavings back out. So you must withdraw periodically and clear shavings. Upside is they work and cost much less than something factory made. For a once a year use I'm reluctant to spend the big bucks.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Richmond, MI near Port Huron
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    64
    Now here's some hollowinghttp://www.anatolytsiris.com/?page_id=41

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy Bratt View Post
    I've seen that before. Impressive. Big and impressive.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Palm Springs, Ca
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    Bernie.............yeah I have one of Mahoneys DVD's on hollowing and he uses a cutter in a tool with a arm brace. Works well from watching how he does hollow forms but he is not doing them at 2' deep plus with it either. It may or may not work going to those depths im not sure because I do not have that type of tool. But I find the hollowing smoother by pre-drilling when going deep I guess.

    Chuck - Frank -------- Good idea on lamp drill bit or welding extension............thanks

    Guy --- Watched the video and yep its impressive - I am not quit at the point or have the tooling for something that big...........except the drilling from both ends the method you describe is how I do it also.....roughing-mount-steady etc.........If I understand you correctly after the drilling from both ends to meet - he makes a seperate bottom and attaches it to hide the hole in the bottom and then finishes it out.........sound right ???? thanks............it is a viable idea for sure
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

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