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Thread: Narrowing down how I finish my turnings - Question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Palm Springs, Ca
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    Narrowing down how I finish my turnings - Question

    I always play around with finishes with my projects and find like most of us I like certain products and other ones not so much. The finishes I use most all the time now adays is oil finishes - laquer - Ren wax

    Picture 1 - dyed green coffee mug sleeve - finished with analine dye and 5 coats of laquer -0000 between the coats and final coat - EEE
    applied with lathe running at about 1200rpm - let dry for 30min and hand buff lightly

    Picture 2-3 - Some scrap pine turned coffee mugs sleeves - DO applied 3 coats with 0000 between each - then 4-5 coats ML Campbell laquer with 0000 between
    each - then Ren Wax applied as above - much higher gloss than the green one

    Picture 4 - Mug sleeve with two coats of DO on - will go with three and then some type of finish

    Picture 5 - Another sleeve with first coat of Formby Tung - sanded in with 400 - wiped well and out drying - finish unknown yet

    Picture 6 - Two larger vessels with analine dye - several coats of Deft laquer - 0000 between each coat - coat 3 drying on each - finish unknown

    Picture 7 - Small NIP vessel - oil/varnish appled - now drying out

    Picture 8 - Large vessel 2' long - sanded to 600 with MS - now drying - finish pending


    My common finish that I like is with oil as the first few coats and then on to laquer and finishing them in semi gloss to gloss finish. Sanding and/or using 0000 between
    coats of finish. Wax is always Ren wax when I do use it - sometimes the last coat of laquer looks great and I leave it.

    Question: I am wondering how other turners are finishing their turnings using oils and laquer ???????
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails P1010004.jpg   P1010007.jpg   P1010010.jpg   P1010012.jpg   P1010013.jpg  

    P1010015.jpg   P1010016.jpg   Sunday-2.jpg  
    Last edited by Dan Mosley; 01-13-2012 at 04:48 AM.
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Oceanside, So. Calif. 5 mi. to the ocean
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    So far I am no help to you. I use one or more of the following: BLO, no wax shellac, wax, clear satin spray can.

    I, almost always, prefer a satin or matt finish.

    Enjoy,

    JimB
    First of all you have to be smarter than the machine.
    VOTING MEMBER

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    ABQ NM
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    When I use lacquer over an oil finish (or an oil-based wipe-on varnish like Formby's Tung Oil Finish), I like to let it cure for a couple of weeks before I hit it with the spray can lacquer. If it's BLO, I'll give it a month or so. I'll use 400 or 600 grit paper (typically moistened with water) between the coats if there are any dust nibs to get rid of.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Vaughn - do you find that the 400+ wet sanding is doing better than 0000 ? I do the same using 0000 if there are any specs, streaks or ? on the turning otherwise build up the laquer until I get the finish I think looks good.....are you leaving the laquer finish or using Ren after?
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
    Posts
    4,834
    I use basically walnut oil or polymerized tung oil for my finishes utility items. I use shellac followed by lacquer on ornaments, mini birdhouses, etc. On HF's, vases, etc I may use antique oil, WOP, General Finishes Seal-A-Cell followed by Arm-R-Seal. I don't use lacquer, poly or any other finish over them as I have never seen a need to. I do like Vaughn and wet sand with 600 or 800 grit which I think leaves a extremely smooth and even surface. Generally I beall buff (except utility items) after the last coat has cured for a minimum of 10 days to two weeks using Ren wax for the last wheel.
    Bernie W.

    Retirement: Thats when you return from work one day
    and say, Hi, Honey, Im home forever.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.

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