Narrowing down how I finish my turnings - Question

Dan Mosley

Member
Messages
1,169
Location
Palm Springs, Ca
I always play around with finishes with my projects and find like most of us I like certain products and other ones not so much. The finishes I use most all the time now adays is oil finishes - laquer - Ren wax

Picture 1 - dyed green coffee mug sleeve - finished with analine dye and 5 coats of laquer -0000 between the coats and final coat - EEE
applied with lathe running at about 1200rpm - let dry for 30min and hand buff lightly

Picture 2-3 - Some scrap pine turned coffee mugs sleeves - DO applied 3 coats with 0000 between each - then 4-5 coats ML Campbell laquer with 0000 between
each - then Ren Wax applied as above - much higher gloss than the green one

Picture 4 - Mug sleeve with two coats of DO on - will go with three and then some type of finish

Picture 5 - Another sleeve with first coat of Formby Tung - sanded in with 400 - wiped well and out drying - finish unknown yet

Picture 6 - Two larger vessels with analine dye - several coats of Deft laquer - 0000 between each coat - coat 3 drying on each - finish unknown

Picture 7 - Small NIP vessel - oil/varnish appled - now drying out

Picture 8 - Large vessel 2' long - sanded to 600 with MS - now drying - finish pending


My common finish that I like is with oil as the first few coats and then on to laquer and finishing them in semi gloss to gloss finish. Sanding and/or using 0000 between
coats of finish. Wax is always Ren wax when I do use it - sometimes the last coat of laquer looks great and I leave it.

Question: I am wondering how other turners are finishing their turnings using oils and laquer ???????
 

Attachments

  • P1010004.jpg
    P1010004.jpg
    29.6 KB · Views: 23
  • P1010007.jpg
    P1010007.jpg
    60.3 KB · Views: 24
  • P1010010.jpg
    P1010010.jpg
    63.2 KB · Views: 24
  • P1010012.jpg
    P1010012.jpg
    97.6 KB · Views: 24
  • P1010013.jpg
    P1010013.jpg
    20.3 KB · Views: 25
  • P1010015.jpg
    P1010015.jpg
    76 KB · Views: 25
  • P1010016.jpg
    P1010016.jpg
    19.5 KB · Views: 24
  • Sunday-2.jpg
    Sunday-2.jpg
    47 KB · Views: 23
Last edited:
When I use lacquer over an oil finish (or an oil-based wipe-on varnish like Formby's Tung Oil Finish), I like to let it cure for a couple of weeks before I hit it with the spray can lacquer. If it's BLO, I'll give it a month or so. I'll use 400 or 600 grit paper (typically moistened with water) between the coats if there are any dust nibs to get rid of.
 
Vaughn - do you find that the 400+ wet sanding is doing better than 0000 ? I do the same using 0000 if there are any specs, streaks or ? on the turning otherwise build up the laquer until I get the finish I think looks good.....are you leaving the laquer finish or using Ren after?
 
I use basically walnut oil or polymerized tung oil for my finishes utility items. I use shellac followed by lacquer on ornaments, mini birdhouses, etc. On HF's, vases, etc I may use antique oil, WOP, General Finishes Seal-A-Cell followed by Arm-R-Seal. I don't use lacquer, poly or any other finish over them as I have never seen a need to. I do like Vaughn and wet sand with 600 or 800 grit which I think leaves a extremely smooth and even surface. Generally I beall buff (except utility items) after the last coat has cured for a minimum of 10 days to two weeks using Ren wax for the last wheel.
 
Top