Paul Downes
Member
- Messages
- 959
- Location
- Westphalia, Michigan
I would echo what Jim said. I've been welding for a long time and also used to teach welding focusing on mig. A 120 volt machine set up for gas would be the most useful in my opinion. You can weld stainless with a gas welder and also run flux core if you need to weld outside in the wind.(you need to switch the polarity when you switch from gas to flux core) Remember that when a machine is rated to weld 1/4" that means it will weld 1/4" steel in one pass. It doesn't mean you can't weld thicker stock, you just need to weld multiple passes.
There is a misconception that mig welding is easy to learn. You can lay down a nice looking bead with mig but unless you use proper technique it may be a junk weld and fail. That being said it is easier to learn than stick welding. Its just different and requires different skills. I ran a mig welding certification program and never had a new student pass all the requirements the first time taking the test. The students always failed one of the welds in root penetration fusion. It just isn't as easy as it looks.
Stick welding is good for welding rusty metal although I always preached grinding or wire brushing the weld area. Stick welding can be a cheaper option when welding a wide variety of steel because you can buy relatively small amounts of rod.
TIG welding is quite versatile depending on what shielding gas and filler rod you use. Take note though, that you need an AC (AC/DC) machine to weld aluminum. The cheaper TIG machines are DC inverter type welders without a cooler. You can do very precise, small, pretty looking welds with a TIG machine. (I sometimes call them "art welders") While I do sometimes use my MIG machine for welding stainless, the TIG welder will lay down a really nice smooth bead whereas the Mig generally doesn't.
I have seen some good deals on CL and bought a Miller 210 machine last year off that site. Beware the deal though and take a good look at the machine and test drive it if you can. I had to stick several $100 into the machine I bought. I knew it was in non-running condition when I bought it and I think I paid $400 for it. It runs perfectly now and I just came in from the shop after fabricating a HD turnbuckle for the dog cable run because my German Shepherd broke the last one. Next week I will be hard facing the wear surfaces on a payloader bucket. I use my welders all the time.
I have: A 1969 vintage Lincoln Idealarc 250, A miller 210, Oxy/acetelyene torch set and a micro welder. I am still in the hunt for a TIG machine and have to go to my buddies shop and use his on occasion.
I would shoot for either a Lincoln, Miller, or maybe a Hobart MIG welder in 120 volt. There are some other decent machines out there. Maybe a Snap On or Esab if the price is right.
There is a misconception that mig welding is easy to learn. You can lay down a nice looking bead with mig but unless you use proper technique it may be a junk weld and fail. That being said it is easier to learn than stick welding. Its just different and requires different skills. I ran a mig welding certification program and never had a new student pass all the requirements the first time taking the test. The students always failed one of the welds in root penetration fusion. It just isn't as easy as it looks.
Stick welding is good for welding rusty metal although I always preached grinding or wire brushing the weld area. Stick welding can be a cheaper option when welding a wide variety of steel because you can buy relatively small amounts of rod.
TIG welding is quite versatile depending on what shielding gas and filler rod you use. Take note though, that you need an AC (AC/DC) machine to weld aluminum. The cheaper TIG machines are DC inverter type welders without a cooler. You can do very precise, small, pretty looking welds with a TIG machine. (I sometimes call them "art welders") While I do sometimes use my MIG machine for welding stainless, the TIG welder will lay down a really nice smooth bead whereas the Mig generally doesn't.
I have seen some good deals on CL and bought a Miller 210 machine last year off that site. Beware the deal though and take a good look at the machine and test drive it if you can. I had to stick several $100 into the machine I bought. I knew it was in non-running condition when I bought it and I think I paid $400 for it. It runs perfectly now and I just came in from the shop after fabricating a HD turnbuckle for the dog cable run because my German Shepherd broke the last one. Next week I will be hard facing the wear surfaces on a payloader bucket. I use my welders all the time.
I have: A 1969 vintage Lincoln Idealarc 250, A miller 210, Oxy/acetelyene torch set and a micro welder. I am still in the hunt for a TIG machine and have to go to my buddies shop and use his on occasion.
I would shoot for either a Lincoln, Miller, or maybe a Hobart MIG welder in 120 volt. There are some other decent machines out there. Maybe a Snap On or Esab if the price is right.