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Thread: table saw dust collection at the blade!!!

  1. #1
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    Nov 2006
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    Delton, Michigan
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    table saw dust collection at the blade!!!

    ok folks, you have 12 boards to straight line rip and then rip to size and these are 74" long some of the pieces can have 2 more rips out of them after you have straight lined them. after your done doing these rips, how much dust do you have on the saw or the guide rail or in the air for you to breath? i dont like my setup and am going to do something to fix it,, a stuffed up nose and head from alot more rips than that on a sunday last week, has finally gotten threw my thick head.. i really didnt want to have some clanky hardware in my way while ripping but i dont need this health problem either.. now be honest on this answer, because i know what i had.. and it would never pass the glenn test
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Larry,

    This is what I have. It's the same system as the one Glenn uses except I mounted mine from the ceiling. It would be much easier to get out of the way in some operations if I had it floor mounted like Glenn's but that didn't suit my shop layout. I can still pivot the bottom part for more clearance, if necessary. The hood lifts several inches above the workpiece, in any case. When I'm able to use this for rips, I get nearly 100% dust pickup - especially nice when cutting MDF with its fine dust!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  3. #3
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    bill i got DC to my right of the table saw that i could connect to.. so could you give me a close up of the guard and swivel area i think i could make a square tubing appartus or maybe a round one to anchor to the right out feed table area and connect to the DC..just need to get the idea set in my head,, if i was as good as you in sketch up i could draw it up side not when you were in the cab shop,, air sanders or electric and then PSA or Hook and Loop? and what do you use in your shop?
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  4. #4
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    May 2007
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    Thomasville, GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    bill i got DC to my right of the table saw that i could connect to.. so could you give me a close up of the guard and swivel area i think i could make a square tubing appartus or maybe a round one to anchor to the right out feed table area and connect to the DC..just need to get the idea set in my head,, if i was as good as you in sketch up i could draw it up side not when you were in the cab shop,, air sanders or electric and then PSA or Hook and Loop? and what do you use in your shop?
    The PS site has a photo that shows good detail of the mechanism. Here it is. My installation uses all of the assembly around the hood but the swing arm goes to the ceiling.

    The cabinet shops I worked in used dual-action air sanders with 5" PSA disks. I have PC and Makita electric ROSs using 8-hole disks in my shop.

    As for SketchUp, a month ago I wasn't sure I wanted to try to tackle it again and even try. I had been frustrated with several previous attempts to use it. So much so, I didn't feel the least bit bad about continuing to use the 2D software I've used for a long time. One day, just over three weeks ago, I wasn't feeling well, didn't want to go to the shop. so I decided to give SU another chance. Whatever it was, it finally clicked! The bad thing about that is I became totally immersed in it and have gotten way behind on my credenza build. Being retired, I've spent at least 6 hours a day, six days a week for three weeks now. With that investment in time, I'd better be learning it!!!
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Between Aledo and Fort Worth, TX
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    Larry, do you remember my set up when you were here last year? This is the overall view from the end of the extension table, and a closer view of the mount. The steel tube slides up into the attic to gain as much space as possible if I need to cut something tall. I think I get a little over 2' clearance. Could get more if the pitch on the roof was a little steeper. The 2 oak arms are a rear and a side stabilizer mount.Click image for larger version. 

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    These are 2 views of the pick up head. Note: this is the original pick up head for the Ridgid saw...I rebuilt it to be long enough to encompass the riving knife on the Grizzly saw, which is shown in the first picture above.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	64816 I got the plans here: http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...m_guard3.shtml It works very well. If I was to do it again, I'd either use steel or steel angle, for the articulating arm or aluminum angle material, instead of the flat aluminum I used to keep deflection down to a minimum. But it works great. I cut a full sheet of 3/4" ply into 4 1/4" and 2 3/4" strips yesterday, and had very little on top of the wood or saw. Maybe 10 small specks. Jim.
    Coolmeadow Setters...
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    Home of Irish Setter Rescue of North Texas
    When Irish Eyes are smiling, they're usually up to something!!
    At a minimum, I'm Pentatoxic...but most likely, I'm a Pentaholic. There seems to be no known cure. Pentatonix, winners of The Sing Off, season 3


  6. #6
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    Jul 2009
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    I know what you me Larry. I spent almost 10 days and nights hacking my lungs out after ripping a bunch of boards for a bed I'm making. The TS is covered in sawdust and it blows everywhere. It didn't help that I had a few pin holes in my dust collector bag though.

    I really need to build/buy an overhead system desperatly.
    Faith, Hope & Charity

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Woodstock, Ontario, Canada
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    719
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	64851I have the excalibur over arm. Works good and can easily be swung out of the way.
    Last edited by Bryan Cowing; 02-07-2012 at 10:19 AM.
    hobby woodworking since 1972

  8. #8
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    Jul 2009
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    I found this on Craigs list. I'm going to give him a call today and take a look at it.

    http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/2823135660.html
    Faith, Hope & Charity

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Gibson View Post
    I found this on Craigs list. I'm going to give him a call today and take a look at it.

    http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/2823135660.html
    Grab it at that price bob, you cant make one for that cost... the other solution would be a trend hood but that wont clean up the dust on the saw just keep it out of the lungs which wont work either if you dont wear it
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    No, not all of SoCal is Los Angeles!
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    9,076
    Mine stands to the right and clears the outside of the fence by an inch or so when the fence is in its farthest location (about 41"). I think it would do better with the larger hose getting closer to the head like Bill A has done. Mine goes from 4" to 3" at the mast and then to 2-1/2" at the head. I have been thinking about increasing the hose size all the way to the head. You guys know how I am once something bugs me enough; I drop everything and modify / fix it on the spot so, I guess it is doing OK. I added the guy-wire as a belt and suspenders but, it ran for years without it, I'm just "that way".

    P.s. I forget why the 1-2-3 block was in the last pic. It obviously isn't there normally.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Overarm cable 001.jpg   Overarm cable 006.jpg   PSI guard hood 005.jpg  
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