table saw dust collection at the blade!!!

larry merlau

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Location
Delton, Michigan
ok folks, you have 12 boards to straight line rip and then rip to size and these are 74" long some of the pieces can have 2 more rips out of them after you have straight lined them. after your done doing these rips, how much dust do you have on the saw or the guide rail or in the air for you to breath? i dont like my setup and am going to do something to fix it,, a stuffed up nose and head from alot more rips than that on a sunday last week, has finally gotten threw my thick head.. i really didnt want to have some clanky hardware in my way while ripping but i dont need this health problem either.. now be honest on this answer, because i know what i had.. and it would never pass the glenn test:)
 
Larry,

This is what I have. It's the same system as the one Glenn uses except I mounted mine from the ceiling. It would be much easier to get out of the way in some operations if I had it floor mounted like Glenn's but that didn't suit my shop layout. I can still pivot the bottom part for more clearance, if necessary. The hood lifts several inches above the workpiece, in any case. When I'm able to use this for rips, I get nearly 100% dust pickup - especially nice when cutting MDF with its fine dust!

TSDC_oa.jpg
 
bill i got DC to my right of the table saw that i could connect to.. so could you give me a close up of the guard and swivel area i think i could make a square tubing appartus or maybe a round one to anchor to the right out feed table area and connect to the DC..just need to get the idea set in my head,, if i was as good as you in sketch up i could draw it up:) side not when you were in the cab shop,, air sanders or electric and then PSA or Hook and Loop? and what do you use in your shop?
 
bill i got DC to my right of the table saw that i could connect to.. so could you give me a close up of the guard and swivel area i think i could make a square tubing appartus or maybe a round one to anchor to the right out feed table area and connect to the DC..just need to get the idea set in my head,, if i was as good as you in sketch up i could draw it up:) side not when you were in the cab shop,, air sanders or electric and then PSA or Hook and Loop? and what do you use in your shop?

The PS site has a photo that shows good detail of the mechanism. Here it is. My installation uses all of the assembly around the hood but the swing arm goes to the ceiling.

The cabinet shops I worked in used dual-action air sanders with 5" PSA disks. I have PC and Makita electric ROSs using 8-hole disks in my shop.

As for SketchUp, a month ago I wasn't sure I wanted to try to tackle it again and even try. I had been frustrated with several previous attempts to use it. So much so, I didn't feel the least bit bad about continuing to use the 2D software I've used for a long time. One day, just over three weeks ago, I wasn't feeling well, didn't want to go to the shop. so I decided to give SU another chance. Whatever it was, it finally clicked! The bad thing about that is I became totally immersed in it and have gotten way behind on my credenza build. Being retired, I've spent at least 6 hours a day, six days a week for three weeks now. With that investment in time, I'd better be learning it!!! :type:
 
Larry, do you remember my set up when you were here last year? This is the overall view from the end of the extension table, and a closer view of the mount. The steel tube slides up into the attic to gain as much space as possible if I need to cut something tall. I think I get a little over 2' clearance. Could get more if the pitch on the roof was a little steeper.:D The 2 oak arms are a rear and a side stabilizer mount.dscn2755 OH dust collection right side.jpg DSCN2757 OH mount.jpg
These are 2 views of the pick up head. Note: this is the original pick up head for the Ridgid saw...I rebuilt it to be long enough to encompass the riving knife on the Grizzly saw, which is shown in the first picture above.DSCN2604 OH guard from 3612.jpgDSCN2603 OH guard from 3612.jpg I got the plans here: http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard3.shtml It works very well. If I was to do it again, I'd either use steel or steel angle, for the articulating arm or aluminum angle material, instead of the flat aluminum I used to keep deflection down to a minimum. But it works great. I cut a full sheet of 3/4" ply into 4 1/4" and 2 3/4" strips yesterday, and had very little on top of the wood or saw. Maybe 10 small specks. Jim.
 
I know what you me Larry. I spent almost 10 days and nights hacking my lungs out after ripping a bunch of boards for a bed I'm making. The TS is covered in sawdust and it blows everywhere. It didn't help that I had a few pin holes in my dust collector bag though.

I really need to build/buy an overhead system desperatly.
 
Mine stands to the right and clears the outside of the fence by an inch or so when the fence is in its farthest location (about 41"). I think it would do better with the larger hose getting closer to the head like Bill A has done. Mine goes from 4" to 3" at the mast and then to 2-1/2" at the head. I have been thinking about increasing the hose size all the way to the head. You guys know how I am once something bugs me enough; I drop everything and modify / fix it on the spot so, I guess it is doing OK. I added the guy-wire as a belt and suspenders but, it ran for years without it, I'm just "that way". :)

P.s. I forget why the 1-2-3 block was in the last pic. It obviously isn't there normally.
 

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It's on my "someday" list also, Larry. I've heard very good things about the shark guard.

I know that Matt Meiser has one. I'll shoot him a PM and ask him if he has a photo of it. He comes around here every now and then. He should post some photos of that awesome $250 unisaw he restored...
 
I had an Excalibur. I did remove it when the saw was placed in a position where it would not work. This was years ago. It was VERY well built. I guess the unit in Jim's pic is an update of the one I had. If I moved mine off of the blade, it extended out to the right. That would be OK. However, when I moved the saw I had a wall in the way of the Excalibur. Mine would cover a 12 inch blade.

At $175 it is a real honest to gosh BARGAIN!

Enjoy,

JimB
 
I looked way too much at all the commercial options. I messed around with making my own blade guard. I didn't like the hardware to hold up the guard and couldn't get it to slide smoothly over any board I was passing under it. I didn't want to have to adjust it for each board. I bought a SawStop blade guard and easily retrofitted it to the stock splitter on my Grizzly G0691. This works well for me. The collection hose comes down from ceiling mounted pvc dust collection piping.
 

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pete, Im currently waiting on my sawstop blade guard dust collector.
(I made an order error and never received it a while ago)
Although I love the smell of fresh cut walnut, and pine, its getting into outdoor furniture season and I already know the PT stuff will torture me without something collecting dust at the blade.
Seems since I have to work in close indoor quarters now, its bothering me alot more.
Im hoping it grabs 99% of the dust as sawstop claims.
 
When i look at this subject i think saw stop has the answer with its blade guard design. If you watch the video of their blade guard you see essentially a tube going all the way to the front of the guard. Its sucking up dust that is thrown forward by the blade rotation. Its only open by the looks of things at the front so all that dust that gets thrown up by the blade teeth coming round gets to hit the top of the blade guard and then vacuumed forward. They using the rotation of the blade teeth to help that forward pull and the guard comes down close enough to the workpiece to kinda close the pocket.

If i compare that to the shark guard or any other type of overhead blade guard attachment that has an extraction near the middle yet has a huge port to pull it up, i wonder how well that peforms when bigger bits of wood need to be lifted. The fine dust i can see getting taking away by loads of moving air volume but the heavier fibres in my view would need more vacuum type lift which is what i percieve the saw stop blade guard is doing.

Check out this video see what you think, i dont see why this kinda of action cannot be replicated on a normal guard with a vacuum hose and closing the front end down.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJEi_lWGeLs

Its still not perfect when you check the video you can see the dust overshoot at the end of the board cut. Would like to see a video of some of the guys that have overarm blade guards when they do the same thing.
 
This is just a little of the dust from ripping one edge of a 48" piece of rough sawn maple. I'm really getting more concerned about airborn dust. I ordered one of the Wynn canister filters for my HF dc and put together this filter on a box fan until I save up enough to get a real air cleaner. Up until the past few weeks my main concern with dust collection was to collect the chips. Having COPD, and hacking my lungs out after cutting walnut and a few other type of wood I figured it's time to get serious.

I'd pick up the Excalibur blade guard if the guy who advertised it on CL would answer my calls :doh:

The big hunk of maple is the culprit that fractured my big toe. If he wasn't so pretty I'd be really mad at him:D The other pieces were hiding under the surface and popped out after I planed them down. They will look pretty nice as the head and foot board on my grand daughters bed.

saw dust.jpgthe culprit.jpgfilter.jpgcurly maple.jpg
 
Bob you want to think on that improvised air scrubber.

Here is why, the dust that causes the health issues is not the stuff we can see , if you aint getting it at source and aint got a low micron air scrubber filter, then moving air about is making your air quality worse rather than better. Whats happening is you are keeping the small size particles in suspension.
Better to think of getting one of these in the short term..
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=62066&cat=1,42207
This is not your ordinary dust mask. Its so effective that when cutting walnut and wearing it, i could not even smell the walnut odour.


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rob those work for smooth faces but not furry ones,,that is where trend or the equivalent steps into the picture,, and if i read you right your saying that the air scrubbers in the ceilings are just blowing around tha fines tuff not taking it out and collecting it on the filters?
 
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