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Thread: Book Shelf Project for Moi! Update

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Escondido, CA
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    5,172

    Book Shelf Project for Moi! Update

    First piece for myself in longer than I can remember, but I am falling over books here.

    First, I need to make some decisions.

    Materials will be basically 3/4" BB plywood. The reason is it is dimensionally stable, relatively inexpensive, cost effective in that there is little waste with careful planning, can be colored to match almost anything, and makes strong shelves (with ledgers).

    Trim will be I don't know yet. How's that for definitive?

    Shelf depth will be ~10". Enough to handle three ring binders.

    Style will be standard library, meaning no particular style. Modified face frame, standing on a deck, with the top to be decided.

    Height will be 5 feet, determined by the longest length on the BB plywood.

    Width will be 3 feet, determined by the longest shelf length without undue sagging problems. Books are heavy. Additional units can be added as needed and the entire project remains esthetically pleasing.

    One shelf will be fixed for sure. I detest adjustable shelves, so likely will fix all of them.

    Joinery will mostly be rabbets and dadoes.

    Finish is intended to match cabinet in the office - sort of pale cherry in color, colored shellac, and protective finish in lacquer. Reasoning is that sprayed colored shellac is super easy with no serious blotching or even coverage problems. Lacquer as a final finish is easily renewed down the road, as it burns in and I spray lacquer really well!

    SketchUp drawing tonight.

    For any who want to follow along. Now you have my thinking process and having posted this makes you my accountability team so I get it done.
    Last edited by Carol Reed; 03-23-2012 at 04:27 PM.
    ++++++

    Some say the land of milk and honey; others say the land of fruits and nuts. All together my sort of heaven.

    Power is not taken. It is given. Who have you given yours to? Hmmmm?

    Carol Reed

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    somewhere east of Queen Creek, AZ - South East of Phoenix
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    8,529
    Good timing Carol, I am about to start one for my office out of 3/4 Ply also. Need something to store all my Medicare stuff on.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
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    5,321
    Quote Originally Posted by Carol Reed View Post
    ...Width will be 3 feet, determined by the longest shelf length without undue sagging problems...
    Carol,
    Aa minor suggestion: If you limit the shelves to a 30" width, you'll save a bit of material, since you could make six 10" (9-7/8" with saw kerf allowance) wide shelves from a half sheet of BB, and the case back from the other half. If it were me, though, I'd use quarter inch BB for the back, and then you could still build the whole thing with one full sheet of ¾" and a half sheet of ¼".
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Escondido, CA
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    Good thought, Jim. I did plan on a 1/4" back. I think I may stay with the three foot width though. I have wall space for a 2 foot section as well. That should even things out a bit. Though I have not optimized cuts yet. BTW, anyone using sheet cut optimizer software. There used to be one for a PC. I now have a Mac.
    ++++++

    Some say the land of milk and honey; others say the land of fruits and nuts. All together my sort of heaven.

    Power is not taken. It is given. Who have you given yours to? Hmmmm?

    Carol Reed

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Escondido, CA
    Posts
    5,172
    Click image for larger version. 

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    OK. A drawing of a side. It has sufficient information to begin.
    ++++++

    Some say the land of milk and honey; others say the land of fruits and nuts. All together my sort of heaven.

    Power is not taken. It is given. Who have you given yours to? Hmmmm?

    Carol Reed

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    So. Florida
    Posts
    268
    Sounds like you have a fun project. I'll make some comments because I just had some oatmeal, and some fresh coffee, and my German Shepherds have already done their morning business and are napping right now.

    Just for the record, I don't use software for any part of the process. Why you ask? Well it's simple. When I started out there was no "computers" per se used by just common human beings, and hence no "software". I guess you could call it "traditional times". I do this every day, and I've ground a system into my thinking process that works 100% of the time...even when the power goes off. Basically, I draw out the project (plan view) on some cheapo substrate. This is of course after I've made shop drawings, which don't have to be that elaborate. But, I feel closer to the work when I'm at my bench or assembly tables with drawings.

    I just posted a thread which is a general overview of my madness:
    http://familywoodworking.org/forums/...873#post325873

    So, if I may make some suggestions about your project, they are intended to give you something to think about.

    First, if a 4x8 sheet will part out better, you can buy Appleply, which is like BB. I've had very good luck with the quality...plys and color of the face veneers.

    Second, you may want to consider making a loose toe kick. That way, a continuous one can support multiple cabinets and could make leveling easier. It would also be less of a hassle cutting out the step on the ends.

    Third, I use a router to do most all dadoes and rabbets. I find using a stack dadoe on the TS can be difficult holding down the sheet, while guiding the fence. Also if done with a RAS, most stack sets don't give a good clean cut, and very flat bottoms. There's also the fact that with both of those methods, the machining is done to the face. I suggest a shop made jig for routing dadoes. It's fast and very accurate. You can see mine here:
    http://www.woodworkstuff.net/CabManRteDadoJig.html

    Fourth, depending on the actual thickness of the substrate, I like to leave exactly 1/2" thickness after the dadoe or rabbet. That means the depth is about 1/4"+/-. The reason for that, is overall widths may be important and easier to figure if each cabinet can be figured for 1" in width added onto the length of the shelves/tops/bottoms.




    .

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    central florida
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    208
    from the picture of the side it looks like no adjustable shelves. Of the 3 book cases I have made i did all of the shelves adjustable except for one particularly tall one (over 8 feet) that had the one center shelf set to make the case ridged and stay square.

    But I was wondering why you avoid adjustable shelves. I know some people cant stand all the little holes. drilling them or looking at them

    and the space you have for the 2 foot section. is it along the same wall, like, you could put a 5 foot case but you don't want one that wide?

  8. #8
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    Mar 2007
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    Escondido, CA
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    Apple ply is not an option. Not readily available. BB ply is easily available. There is also the issue that I have a lot of cut-offs from a previous job that yielded a ton of 'waste' because of the client's wishes.

    Separate deck is still an option. I do have a vacuum template jig for the notch however, so it goes quick. First, a quick rough cut out with the Bosch jig saw, then the jig is vacuum clamped on and a flush trim router bit cleans everything up perfectly.

    I have set up my RAS to do rabbets and dadoes. Workpieces are clamped in and down so depth of cut is controlled. That was the purpose of acquiring that machine and it is dedicated to the task. Works very well and much quicker that routing them. I know most folks only go 1/4" deep for dadoes and rabbets. I go 3/8" deep and the width matched that which goes into it. The backs are 1/4" B ply. The rabbet is 1/4" deep and 3/8" wide. Much easier to located fasteners.

    Three foot vs. 2 foot wide units are not intended to be along the same wall. I have a jig for doing the holes for adjustable shelves. However, it is my experience that once the space is set, it almost never is changed. So I figured out what the spacing would be and will do fixed shelves. Much quicker.

    I had to work a very long day today, so haven't even looked in the shop. Tomorrow I need to do the next set of complex glue-ups for a pulpit project. When it is in the clamps, I will mill the sides of the bookcase.

    Different approaches for different folks. These will get moved multiple times and there are subtle design features to mitigate the rigors of moving.
    ++++++

    Some say the land of milk and honey; others say the land of fruits and nuts. All together my sort of heaven.

    Power is not taken. It is given. Who have you given yours to? Hmmmm?

    Carol Reed

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    central florida
    Posts
    208
    Carol;
    Your point about the shelves never moving from their set height is a real fact. the largest book case I made was a 15' wide built in. lots of adjustable shelves. almost none of them ever moved again (though its only been 2 years but I doubt it will change because its just to much work)

    but for me and my wife, we can't figure out how we want everything placed on the case until we are loading it. thats when the adjustable shelves come in handy.

    Though I do like the look of the set shelves much better.

    Sounds like you have everything well in hand I can't wait until I find the time too get my ras set up like you have.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Escondido, CA
    Posts
    5,172
    Progress today. But it did take as long to prepare this post!

    I had drawn a side. Decided the space between shelves. Decided on a separate deck. Looked at wood on hand. Hmmm...couple sheets of 3/4' BB ply. Some half sheets but the short grain orientation. Well, I'll do the sides first.

    First, select a sheet. It travels from storage via my panel trolley. The panel trolley is made up of 4 HF 10" pneumatic wheels and two pieces of plywood and inch apart. Long 5/8" bolts make up the axles. Have had it for years. Inspired by a door holding jig I saw on a job site one day. The plywood sheet is clear. You are seeing the shadow of the wood storage trailer.

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    Then transfer to the tilter. This plan came out of Wood magazine and is a little modified to fit my saw table set up. Works fine. It replace my electric hoist. I can't use th hoist because this garage has no trusses and I didn't want to pull down the roof! I'm renting.

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    Set up the saw table.

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    Then transfer the sheet onto the saw table.

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    Of course these 5x5 sheets need a little extra outboard support.

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    Now measure for the width of the sides to rip with the circular saw on my own track system. No longer being manufactured. Sorry. It was much beefier than what came out after I came to market with this, but I was underfunded and couldn't defend my idea. I made my bucks while I could. Did recover the extrusion molds and such. Barely.

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    OK, now the test. Are the ends square to the sides? Oh, yeah! Only have to measure the ends of one piece. See the next step.

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    Next test. Is each side exactly the same shape and size? Lay them on top of one another and run the fingers around the stack. These two pieces are flush all the way around. Perfect! If I were doing more than one set, I would mill all the ends at one time and test them all in one stack.

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    The next thing I do is select the outside faces and orient the top end, and the front and back edges. I pasted a piece of masking tape on each side near the top and on the outside face. It is properly labeled and will stay there until the outside face is sanded. By then the base will be glued together.

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    Ready for milling. See the next post.
    ++++++

    Some say the land of milk and honey; others say the land of fruits and nuts. All together my sort of heaven.

    Power is not taken. It is given. Who have you given yours to? Hmmmm?

    Carol Reed

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