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Thread: Cutting Board - How Do I Do It

  1. #1
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    Cutting Board - How Do I Do It

    My in-laws live in a 1920s bungalow in San Francisco. Mom-in-law has asked me to make her a new cutting board. The existing one is 2' wide, 20" long and 3/4" thick. It slides completely out of a slot in a kitchen cabinet. It looks like 2 - unfinished oak boards with a long grain stile on each side and a rail across the front. The two large boards are joined with what looks like tongue and groove. This joint leaves a shallow groove across the cutting board which catches crumbs and other food stuff. Attached is a crude drawing using Word. I need to practice with Sketchup.

    I'm looking for some ideas on how to make a new one, possible in an edge grain style.
    Cutting Board.doc

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5B8oAJs3sik

    This youtube link from something called the wood whisperer has one. I didn't watch it but the board looks very nice.

  3. #3
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    Thank you. I watched it. Good information. I guess I am most worried that my cutting board would be only 3/4" thick and quite large. Most cutting boards seem to be over 1" thick and not as large.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    My basic cutting board is 18 x 13 and 3/4" thick Pete, so no worries on the size IMHO

  5. #5
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    St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
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    I have made cutting boards this size in 3/4" birch, edge glued. No Problems.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Austin, Texas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Janke View Post
    .... It looks like 2 - unfinished oak boards with a long grain stile on each side and a rail across the front. The two large boards are joined with what looks like tongue and groove. This joint leaves a shallow groove across the cutting board which catches crumbs and other food stuff. ...
    Those two stiles on the sides are pulling your cutting board apart. Wood expands and contracts across the grain, almost none in the long grain direction. Therefore the stiles are grabbing the two boards. For discussion, lets say at the middle. In the wet season, the wood compresses (crushing the fibers at the joint). In the dry season the wood shrinks, but are being held in place by the stiles, giving you the groove that is bothering you.

    I would take a more closed grain wood than oak - perhaps maple, and edge glue the pieces together, no tongue and groove. No stiles on the side. I bet you will have a cutting board that lasts a LONG time, especially if the wood is well dried to start, so there are no internal stresses to cause splits or warping. I have made many cutting boards by just slapping together a couple pieces of maple - they won't sell at a craft fair but they work great.
    Last edited by Charlie Plesums; 03-15-2012 at 03:12 AM.
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  7. #7
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    I'll second Charlie's recommendation. For an in-cabinet cutting board that's meant to be used, I'd just make a simple edge-glued cutting board out of maple that's well dried and stable. And that can be a warmup for the nice and fancy thicker end grain board you could make later to display (and use) on top of the counter.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  8. #8
    I agree with an edge glued board for this use plus I would forget the bread board end.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Northern CA Bay Area
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    Thank you for all your great advise, but Mom-in-Law wanted one like the old one. Maple with Cherry sides and end.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
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    Looks real nice, Pete. I'll bet your MIL is gonna love it.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

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