Yes Marshal I have. I got the 2 part mix from woodcraft and used it just prior to applying a clear water based poly. I used the water based since it was non yellowing. It was on the dove that Toni carved for me on the church commission and after going on two years it is still pure white.
I don't use it prior to finishing, unless a determination that it's necessary,i.e., to match up if need be. But I don't use it as a matter of course. The times to use it may be if the wood has darkened, or developed mold or mildew, or discolored from chemical sources, or UV differentials. In lieu of bleaching to clean, you could try TSP (tri-sodium phosphate), available at home centers in the housewares section. It's basically a strong cleaning agent. Clorox can work, or a better bleach would be oxalic acid. What ever you use make sure you neutralize the bleached area, and allow to completely dry before doing any further finishing.
I knew a furntiure refinisher that used Clorox one time - but had forgot what the reason was he used it for . Thanks for sheding some light on this subject for me ...............MB
I knew a furntiure refinisher that used Clorox one time - but had forgot what the reason was he used it for . Thanks for sheding some light on this subject for me ...............MB
I've used Clorox on turned pieces to lighten the color of the wood. (Sort of like Frank, I used it to turn blond ash into semi-white ash.) Be aware, though, that if left on the wood long enough, Clorox will start to eat away the wood. Here's a close-up look at an ash bowl that was sanded smooth down to 600 grit, then soaked in Clorox for a day or two. (I was wanting the eroded look.)
And I did all my bleaching before applying the finish.