Dan Mosley
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- 1,169
- Location
- Palm Springs, Ca
I posted this on another thread showing the Lacquer finish.
1) - This is the largest one I have made so far - It stands 2' 2" with a 6" Finial for a total height of 2' 8" tall. My Camera is not that good but its the best pic I had.
The outside - I used a steady rest and would not have attempted it without one due to the length. On the outside the "\_/" profile was the more difficult part in that I had to take smaller slices here and there to make it straight lined so to speak. Of all the tools to make the profile straight (shear cut), I found that the Ci1 was the easiest to use and control.
I cracked the rim with my boring bar when i was hollowing and thought I had ruined the project. I used to get mad and break it up and throw it on the firewood pile. Now I stop and think about it for a bit - How did it happen ? then Is there anything I can do to save it ? With this one I used CA glue, wood dust and my Optima 1 wood burning tool and created the branches you see on it. It actually turned out better than I thought.
The inside -The wood was not real wet so cutting was a bit tougher than normally would be if it was wet. To make it easier I used a spray bottle of MS and would spray the inside and let it turn for a bit before continuing the hollowing. This made it much easier, smoother cuts and alot less vibration on the tooling. I suppose you could many other things to spray and cut with but its what I had on hand and worked very. I do not use the standard 3/16" cutting tips and grind my own now with a different profile and change the angle of the bevel but the 3/16 works. I do this so I only cut once with a very smooth surface and never have to go back to clean up etc -.
The Finish - It started out a solid white pc of dull looking wood so I changed it. The finish was done using ML Campbell hight build gloss lacquer - surface was sanded to 220 - black transtint sanded back - then Ruby red sanded back - then light yellow mist sprayed over and not sanded - Lacquer sprayed on 8 coats or so - left to dry for a couple weeks - finish sanded with 600 - 1000-1500 then onto 3m rubbing compound - then swirl mark remover. It is alot of effort but a very nice finish that I have not tried before. I really do not want to do the rottenstone/pumice thing so I thought this would work just as well. Since then I have ordered some Menzerna compound to try out - I hear good things about it so ill see how it goes.
Could I have made it easier - you could have sanded it down and used 0000 with wax and hand rubbed it in and buffed off=
could have just sanded it to 2000 and rubbed it down with a dry towel to and both would have given you a satin
to a so-so semi gloss.
1) - This is the largest one I have made so far - It stands 2' 2" with a 6" Finial for a total height of 2' 8" tall. My Camera is not that good but its the best pic I had.
The outside - I used a steady rest and would not have attempted it without one due to the length. On the outside the "\_/" profile was the more difficult part in that I had to take smaller slices here and there to make it straight lined so to speak. Of all the tools to make the profile straight (shear cut), I found that the Ci1 was the easiest to use and control.
I cracked the rim with my boring bar when i was hollowing and thought I had ruined the project. I used to get mad and break it up and throw it on the firewood pile. Now I stop and think about it for a bit - How did it happen ? then Is there anything I can do to save it ? With this one I used CA glue, wood dust and my Optima 1 wood burning tool and created the branches you see on it. It actually turned out better than I thought.
The inside -The wood was not real wet so cutting was a bit tougher than normally would be if it was wet. To make it easier I used a spray bottle of MS and would spray the inside and let it turn for a bit before continuing the hollowing. This made it much easier, smoother cuts and alot less vibration on the tooling. I suppose you could many other things to spray and cut with but its what I had on hand and worked very. I do not use the standard 3/16" cutting tips and grind my own now with a different profile and change the angle of the bevel but the 3/16 works. I do this so I only cut once with a very smooth surface and never have to go back to clean up etc -.
The Finish - It started out a solid white pc of dull looking wood so I changed it. The finish was done using ML Campbell hight build gloss lacquer - surface was sanded to 220 - black transtint sanded back - then Ruby red sanded back - then light yellow mist sprayed over and not sanded - Lacquer sprayed on 8 coats or so - left to dry for a couple weeks - finish sanded with 600 - 1000-1500 then onto 3m rubbing compound - then swirl mark remover. It is alot of effort but a very nice finish that I have not tried before. I really do not want to do the rottenstone/pumice thing so I thought this would work just as well. Since then I have ordered some Menzerna compound to try out - I hear good things about it so ill see how it goes.
Could I have made it easier - you could have sanded it down and used 0000 with wax and hand rubbed it in and buffed off=
could have just sanded it to 2000 and rubbed it down with a dry towel to and both would have given you a satin
to a so-so semi gloss.