sons kitchen updates

[allen levine]

just so noone gets their panties in a knot, I apologized to dan, I accidently edited his post, meant to post many loose screws myself, but eh.........hit the wrong button, answering phones, taking care of paperwork....sorry dano.
I wont attempt to correct it, Ill only do more damage, so you change it.

[larry merlau]

well allen a slight adjustment of the fluid or the air flow knobs will make day light and dark in the way it works..a good exercise is to shoot it and see how its working then mess with knobs and go back to the same pattern till you get feel for what makes it work well.. i use card board to shoot against each time to make sure the gun is set right..each time you make a mix it can be different and you will need to alter your guns settings to make spray right.

[Dan Noren]

and since you're using a water based lacquer, you can practice your spray patterns with plain old water.

[allen levine]

I do practice with water.

I believe my problem was simple.

It was just a matter of getting adequate without over pressure, and the correct amount of fluid fed into the gun.

I realized after the fact that I have to readjust the gun once Im done with one coat.

the coats blended in very nicely, the third coat did it, didnt feel any more coats were necessary.

Ill touch it lightly with 400 grit sandpaper tomorrow.

I have to cut 8 shelves this week, so Ill get a bit more practice with the gun.

[Jim DeLaney]

I do practice with water.

I believe my problem was simple...

Yeah, the problem is simple - the EM6000 is thicker than water, so the same settings can't be used. You'll need to open up the fluid valve a bit more to get the same flow with the EM6000 that you had with water, and you might (but again, might not) need to increase the pressure slightly, too.

I practice on poster board, and use the finish I want to shoot for the practice. Generally, it only takes a couple passes to get the pattern and flow I want.

I only spray waterbornes, and mostly use either EM6000 or General Finishes' Enduro WB lacquer. Both spray beautifully, and require minimal rubbing out after they cure.

[allen levine]

never thought of that jim.
I test shoot water onto those pink boards(I use them to protect my machines also)
then when I fill the gun, I shoot a bit onto the back of the cabs that wont be seen, so I can see it on the wood.
makes sense, need a slightly larger fluid flow since its thicker.

[allen levine]

yep, its one of those days.
been taking my time, working at 1/3 speed to make sure each step is right, no do overs.
so this morning, had to cut the dovetails on 6 drawers.
labeled each side, inside and out for the jig.

the first drawer, I turned one board the wrong way.

the first drawer.

just one of those days.

[Don Baer]

the first drawer, I turned one board the wrong way.

the first drawer.

just one of those days.

Allen just use that board for a drawer on the opposite wall.....

[allen levine]

well, after all my mistakes and mishaps, turns out I didnt have to remill or recut the maple drawer.
due to an earlier mistake not realizing one cabinet was shorter than the other one since Im adding a 3/4 raised panel on the opposite end, the drawer was a bit too long.
so I cut off the miscut tails, and used the same 2 sides and cut new tails a bit shorter, maybe 1/4 inch shorter overall depth than I wanted, buts its only one top drawer, wont be noticed.
The two bottom drawers, while I wanted them approx 3/4 less depth, they will fit tight front to back, maybe I needed an 1/8th more, so I put the pin boards from both drawers on the jointer, and took them down 1/16 on each outside .
Now they all fit fine.

the depth measurement mistake of the cabinet when I measured for drawers is actually not a mistake in the cabinet design, I just forgot to measure each cabinet separate,(for drawers or pull outs) thinking they are all the same depth except for that one.

[allen levine]

progress is slow, but Im updating where Im at with this project.
I have all the cabs built.
All the face frames are on.
All shelves as well as cabs are sprayed just need to be rubbed a drop.
This morning I glued up the final 3 drawers and will sand and start finishing all of them tomorrow.
The one cab in the picture with the 3 drawers, the top one is a drawer, the bottom two are pullouts behind one cabinet door. I have bumpers to put on the drawers so they dont damage the inside of the door.
I used mostly hard maple for the drawers, but had to throw in some quilted/figured maple and a piece of silver maple. My maple supply is just about depleted, I only have a bunch of 2 inch thick by 12 footers, just too much work for me to break down and resaw right now, so I used what little I had left of assorted maples.(and perhaps birch)
All drawers are dovetailed.

these four cabs will make up the pseudo island extending into the kitchen dividing the kitchen and dining room, where we took down the wall.
I purposely did not build the toekick base into the cabinets, so I can build one base, fit the heater, size it all, and place the base exactly where I need it to hide the floor where the wall came out and the different floors meet. I also feel it might be easier for me to level the base first, then just sit the cabinets on top of it.

my time in the shop to work on this is very limited. Besides having to churn out chairs, Im busy ferrying relatives and friends back and forth from the airport, twice this week, twice last week, and alot of other little errands that keep me from the shop. Not to mention the heat and humidity are cutting my hours drastically.

Im beginning to think I wont have this project done until thanksgiving!

the rest of the cabinets are in my den, since I have no room to store them safely in the garage, fearing Ill bump into them or scratch them up, they just need doors now.