sons kitchen updates

just so noone gets their panties in a knot, I apologized to dan, I accidently edited his post, meant to post many loose screws myself, but eh.........hit the wrong button, answering phones, taking care of paperwork....sorry dano.
I wont attempt to correct it, Ill only do more damage, so you change it.
 
well allen a slight adjustment of the fluid or the air flow knobs will make day light and dark in the way it works..a good exercise is to shoot it and see how its working then mess with knobs and go back to the same pattern till you get feel for what makes it work well.. i use card board to shoot against each time to make sure the gun is set right..each time you make a mix it can be different and you will need to alter your guns settings to make spray right.
 
I do practice with water.

I believe my problem was simple.

It was just a matter of getting adequate without over pressure, and the correct amount of fluid fed into the gun.

I realized after the fact that I have to readjust the gun once Im done with one coat.

the coats blended in very nicely, the third coat did it, didnt feel any more coats were necessary.

Ill touch it lightly with 400 grit sandpaper tomorrow.

I have to cut 8 shelves this week, so Ill get a bit more practice with the gun.
 
I do practice with water.

I believe my problem was simple...

Yeah, the problem is simple - the EM6000 is thicker than water, so the same settings can't be used. You'll need to open up the fluid valve a bit more to get the same flow with the EM6000 that you had with water, and you might (but again, might not) need to increase the pressure slightly, too.

I practice on poster board, and use the finish I want to shoot for the practice. Generally, it only takes a couple passes to get the pattern and flow I want.

I only spray waterbornes, and mostly use either EM6000 or General Finishes' Enduro WB lacquer. Both spray beautifully, and require minimal rubbing out after they cure.
 
never thought of that jim.
I test shoot water onto those pink boards(I use them to protect my machines also)
then when I fill the gun, I shoot a bit onto the back of the cabs that wont be seen, so I can see it on the wood.
makes sense, need a slightly larger fluid flow since its thicker.
 
yep, its one of those days.
been taking my time, working at 1/3 speed to make sure each step is right, no do overs.
so this morning, had to cut the dovetails on 6 drawers.
labeled each side, inside and out for the jig.

the first drawer, I turned one board the wrong way.

the first drawer.

just one of those days.
 
well, after all my mistakes and mishaps, turns out I didnt have to remill or recut the maple drawer.
due to an earlier mistake not realizing one cabinet was shorter than the other one since Im adding a 3/4 raised panel on the opposite end, the drawer was a bit too long.
so I cut off the miscut tails, and used the same 2 sides and cut new tails a bit shorter, maybe 1/4 inch shorter overall depth than I wanted, buts its only one top drawer, wont be noticed.
The two bottom drawers, while I wanted them approx 3/4 less depth, they will fit tight front to back, maybe I needed an 1/8th more, so I put the pin boards from both drawers on the jointer, and took them down 1/16 on each outside .
Now they all fit fine.

the depth measurement mistake of the cabinet when I measured for drawers is actually not a mistake in the cabinet design, I just forgot to measure each cabinet separate,(for drawers or pull outs) thinking they are all the same depth except for that one.
 
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progress is slow, but Im updating where Im at with this project.
I have all the cabs built.
All the face frames are on.
All shelves as well as cabs are sprayed just need to be rubbed a drop.
This morning I glued up the final 3 drawers and will sand and start finishing all of them tomorrow.
The one cab in the picture with the 3 drawers, the top one is a drawer, the bottom two are pullouts behind one cabinet door. I have bumpers to put on the drawers so they dont damage the inside of the door.
I used mostly hard maple for the drawers, but had to throw in some quilted/figured maple and a piece of silver maple. My maple supply is just about depleted, I only have a bunch of 2 inch thick by 12 footers, just too much work for me to break down and resaw right now, so I used what little I had left of assorted maples.(and perhaps birch)
All drawers are dovetailed.

these four cabs will make up the pseudo island extending into the kitchen dividing the kitchen and dining room, where we took down the wall.
I purposely did not build the toekick base into the cabinets, so I can build one base, fit the heater, size it all, and place the base exactly where I need it to hide the floor where the wall came out and the different floors meet. I also feel it might be easier for me to level the base first, then just sit the cabinets on top of it.

my time in the shop to work on this is very limited. Besides having to churn out chairs, Im busy ferrying relatives and friends back and forth from the airport, twice this week, twice last week, and alot of other little errands that keep me from the shop. Not to mention the heat and humidity are cutting my hours drastically.

Im beginning to think I wont have this project done until thanksgiving!

the rest of the cabinets are in my den, since I have no room to store them safely in the garage, fearing Ill bump into them or scratch them up, they just need doors now.
 

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just realized today, as I was about to start making doors, I made another design error.
I only put 2 sliding shelves, the last post, the pic on the right, or the cabinet on the right in first pic.
If I mount door protectors on those sliding shelves, the door wont close flush. I needed to offset the slides more to allow for the thickness of the plastic drawers guards. Not sure if Ill have enough room on the faceframe to moount them now, or if Im just going to leave them off at this point. Id have to mount a piece of wood in back of the faceframe to screw the slides on to move the shelf back, or at least thats what I think. Any ideas? I dont think theres another way.
 
Those cabinets look awesome there Allen. Very professional!:score:

You said something about bumpers on the fronts of the pullouts to protect the backs of the doors? Do these mount on the slides on the drawers? The slides are whats going to do the damage.

Is there a reason you used clamps on your dovetailed drawers? I know when I do mine I never had to use clamps. Once I tapped them together with glue there was no way they were ever coming apart.
 
I dont know why I use clamps, once I tap them with glue, they are fine, I think I just do it because Im used to clamping anything I glue. its out of habit.

the guards have 2 sided tape that will stick to the slides, but I have the slides mounted on the 3/4 face frame, set back maybe a 1/16, so the doors close, so I can move the slides back enough, since the guards have some thickness, do I have to attach a piece of wood to the inside of the ff to reattach the slides?
 
Depends on how much further your moving them back. If your within a 1/4" of the back of the stile you would be fine. Any less than that and I would add some blocking.
 
I only got a couple of hours today, but I managed to recut the long pieces I messed up(dont try to take a short cut and cut the long end before the end grain on the stiles/rails).
then I put in a block to move the slides back and attach the door guards to the drawer/shelf.
worked out ok.(I left an inch behind the drawers, so now there is a 1/4 inch) Just will have to touch up the 4 holes on the faceframe from the original screw holes.
 

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well, I learned another hard lesson today. I have been taking my time so each step I plan out and double check.
Dont let a piece of wood touch a blade or bit until I checked and then rechecked my measurements or thinking.
so today, I wanted to predrill out all the doors for hinges and handles, so I can give a final sanding and then stain.
All was going well, until I made a terrible error.
The base cabinet with the slide outs, I placed bottom hinge in the same spot as all the other hinges, but failed to realize the hinge wont fit because of the slide out.
So I recut the hole, now I either have to junk the door, or fill in the hole, and for that I cant figure anything else out other then to take a hunk of cherry, and spin a 35 mm thick dowel and then glue it in .
Any ideas?

(my wife said to me, if you cant see it, it isnt there. Im not sure I can live with that hole, and man oh man I dont want to start remaking a door, but I believe I might not have a choice)

and luckily, I also didnt realize the 106 * opening doors, the pull outs just clear it, I could have made the drawers a bit more narrower, but Im relieved they slide out with just enough clearance.
 

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