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Thread: Finding the right paint

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Finding the right paint

    I'm looking for the 2 part paint that cabinet companies use.
    What I have for info is that it is a Valspar paint. at one point on the label it says that it is a Conestoga wood stain and it says that it is Duraguard. So far google searches have turned up nothing on how to get my hands on this product.
    Any help guys?
    It could be worse You could be on fire.
    Stupid hurts.

  2. #2
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    Spitting distance north of Detroit Michigan
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    I'm the last person you'd want to hear from on this subject but google is my friend {most of the time} and here's some of what I found...
    Granted, I've been known to live way out in left field, so if none of this pertains, well, you got your monies worth

    "Acid catalyzed paint also referred to as Conversion Varnish. It is one of the widely used paints for kitchen cabinet industries based on their advantages - fast dry, high durability, passing all KCMA requirements, and good yellowing resistance. The CV is very easy to use - long pot life, and good sanding property.

    Pigmented CV works great for a "painted" finish. Base white pigmented CV can be tinted to match virtually any paint color and sheen. Lighter colors are easier to match. It's not necessary to topcoat pigmented CV with a clear coat. Pigmented vinyl sealers are also available, and can be tinted as well. All of these pigmented products are higher in solids and viscosity than their clear counterparts, and will likely require a different spray gun needle/nozzle setup to spray properly. The pigmented products build rapidly. You have to pay attention to film thickness, or you will exceed the maximum 4 - 5 mil dry film thickness and risk finish failure. Sherwin Williams, Mohawk, ML Campbell, and others make pigmented CVs and offer color matching services."

    As to the Valspar...maybe this will help... http://www.valsparwood.com/distribFi...stributors.jsp

  3. #3
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    Thanks Ken A big part of the problem was not knowing what it was called.
    It could be worse You could be on fire.
    Stupid hurts.

  4. #4
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    Yeah, conversion varnish is the way to go if you want a super tough finish. You can also use regular or precat lacquer tinted as paint as well.

  5. #5
    At work we use Cambell products. For clear finish we use the magna max and for anything painted we use the conversion varnish.

    Just be careful with the conversion varnish as I've found it's kind of touchy on touchups as far as the finish wrinkling on you.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Bienlein View Post
    At work we use Cambell products.
    I'm a big fan of the M.L. Campbell products as well.

  7. #7
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    Use the precat stuff - it's good and you don't have to mix the two components. And make sure you clean the gun very well. Once that stuff "sets" it's tough to get off.

    Mike
    Ancora imparo
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  8. #8
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    Now that we have the paint figured out what type of spray gun to use on said paint?
    It could be worse You could be on fire.
    Stupid hurts.

  9. #9
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    Chuck MLC is your best bet. Conversion varnish is good but try stripping it.
    All we use is MLC.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Thoits View Post
    Now that we have the paint figured out what type of spray gun to use on said paint?
    You can spray it with an airless sprayer. You just have to get all the solvent out when you rinse it or it'll eat up the seals.

    http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...ss%2Caps%2C188

    You can spray it with a regular cup gun I'm sure, but I don't know about nozzles and such for it. I use an airless for the vast majority of finishing even with regular lacquer. They're very fast and with the right tip size they do a great job.

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