Workshop Update #4

Kyle Murphy

Member
Messages
129
Location
Tokyo, Japan
I have not posted any updates on my 'work in progress' for some time. The reasons are several. First, last October I had a total knee replacement of my right knee. Then I had other problems which required surgery. Nothing major unless something went wrong. Fortunately, so far so good.

The last time I updated, my friend Clyde and I put in one half of the wood floor. This was last fall. January and February, I had work and it was simply too cold to go up to a house on Mt. Fuji and work in a half completed workshop with wood and sterroform (sp?) in the windows. So, nothing happened until about a month ago. First, we finished the floor. With the exception of the entrance the shop now has a floor. A description with pictures can be found in part 3 of the shop tour thread. I do feel for a couple of wannabe woodworkers it was not too bad a job. We made some mistakes but like good woodworkers I think we were able to hide them. I plan to put down linked together mats that we got out of a gym that was moving.

This left the woodworking tools. Specifically, a Bandsaw, drill press, benchtop jointer, planer and a contractor table saw. They all needed mobile tables. The lathe, for the dark side work that I want to do is not yet on its stand. I also wanted to modify one of the IKEA tables I also got out of the club move to be a mitre saw table.

DSC_1083.jpg

Here is a picture of the mobile tables that I made for the TS, planer and jointer. I used the Kreg pockethole system. Not very fancy I admit, but, hopefully, it will get the job done. I also have too much plywood, a result of panic buying after the March 11th tsunami. Never used it. Hope to in the future. So, I built a storage cart for the excess lumber, including the extra subflooring.DSC_1084.jpg

In the background you can see the mobile base we made for the Bandsaw. The one for the drill press is the same. If I were over six feet tall these would be fine but I am only a tall 5'6 and 3/4" (I used to be 5'8" but I seem to be shrinking--at least in height) so, the mobile base needs to be replaced. Also, it is a little dangerous. I moved the bandsaw and I almost lost control when it was only on the wheels. I could not lift (push) it back to an upright position. Scary since I was by myself. Finally, I got it against a wall and was able to get it upright. (Afterwards, I could just hear my friends, "Buys a bandsaw and destroys it before it has ever been turned on.")DSC_1085.jpgDSC_1086.jpgDSC_1087.jpg

I had been using my mitre saw on a stand (the blue two step next to the lumber storage) that Stu gave me out of his liquor store. I really needed something more permanent. Since I had an IKEA table I thought I could modify it to be a mitre saw table. Ikea products look pretty but are not really very strong so, I used angle irons to stiffen it up. Then I cut out a piece so I could make the cutting surface of the mitre saw the same as the rest of the table. Easy to say but getting it right was not easy. Finally got it all put together and realized I had forgotten to put wheels on it. By then, I had run out of the right screws and I was too tired. Tried to clean up the shop, take some pictures and ride back to Tokyo. The last picture is my new "old" 1998 Pajero AE. (as an aside, look up the Spanish meaning of Pajero- obviously Mitsubishi did not when they named the car.-- Sort of like Chevy naming the Nova-which I am told means "No G0" in Spanish.)

Next I will build the lathe stand for my Nova DVR (it sits in back and is covered in plastic) and a worktable. I also need to get the windows in place (they have been ordered), adequate electricity in place and adequate lighting. Step by step.

As you all know, I am a wannabe woodworker. I study all the magazines, watch the YouTube sites and follow my FW woodworkers with awe and admiration. It took me three days to build three mobile carts, a lumber storage cart and a not so mobile mitre saw table. It was hard work for me. I had to learn even the most simple things from scratch. Without the Kreg dvd I would still be trying to put the joints together. So, I am ever so impressed with the quality of work that you ladies and guys do. You make it look so simple and very professional. You all set a high target for me to aspire.
 
Good to hear your back up & moving along once again. Nice looking MS station, adding the angle iron was a smart move.
I'd also say, that what you accomplished in 3 days, was outstanding...going by the peek outside, the location looks very distracting {in an awesome way}. :thumb:
 
It's all looking very good Kyle!
Just remember, it never ends, and I mean N-E-V-E-R ends, that is the working on your workshop part, you will forEVER be updating, moving stuff around and reworking things..... TRUST ME on that one!
I have to make a day to come up and take a look!

Cheers!
 
Coming along real nicely Kyle. That miter table is one if the nicest I've seen. ;) Actually it looks like it will function very well for the purpose, shelves for scrap and drawers for tools and such. Nice support on each side as well. :thumb:
 
Looks great, Kyle. I agree with Darren, the miter table looks top-notch. :thumb:

So...which Ikea model was the table? Was it the Bjorgenfiord or the Ursäkta Förlåt? :D
 
Help!! My walls are weeping. (me too!)

Over the last year, between various stints in the hospital, I have slowly been moving my shop forward. Before I put my floating floors down (check previous posts) my mentor, Stu of the dungeon, told me to check for leaks in the walls. I did so. Honest. Found one and repaired it. Watched the walls through the rainy season. Dry as a bone, so we proceed to put down the floating floor.

This year the rainy season was particularly heavy. After two weeks in Hawaii I took my new tools up to the house on Mt. Fuji. Went down to check the shop and discovered the weeping. The shop is in a walk out basement. The house is built on a slight incline and the wall along the back (7 meters long and about 3 meter high. 9ft high and 21 ft long) is weeping. A lot! The weeping goes up from the bottom about 2ft or so. I lined the floor with plastic but that only goes up six inches or so.

Stu has told me about a powder that you mix with water that absorbs into the cement and creates a bond. He could not remember the name. Can you guys help me?

I need to take up the floor along the wall roll back the plastic And repair. My question is:what do you use and what else do you do? HELP!
 
The outside of the wall should be sealed from the bottom up, & do you have drainage around the outside base of the wall?

Hi Bart,

I am not sure about the outside drainage. None is obvious. I doubt if too much was done. I bought the house from a man whose brother's construction firm built it. I believe they sealed on the other side of the wall simply because the rest of the construction is pretty solid. It would be virtually impossible to do anything fro the outside.
 
Hey Kyle, I'm glad to see you posting on this problem, sorry you are having it.d

Steve, that Drylock stuff is a paint, right? It forms a film on the top of the concrete, correct?
I was thinking about a different stuff, it is almost water like, and spray it on the inside of the concrete walls, and it creates a crystal like structure that fills all the voids in the concrete, and it will eventually migrate to the outer side of the wall, completely sealing the wall. It is also self healing, if you get a new crack in the wall, the crystals will grow into the void and seal it. It is added to new concrete, I know as hour whole building is made from this kind of concrete, once we had a big earthquake and then a typhoon, the roof of my Dungeon developed a crack from the quake, which then leaked a few drops when the typhoon came, but it never leaked again, it healed itself.

I guess I'll go Google it :D
 
Hi Kyle good to see you back up and at it. Glad you recovered and get to woodwork for another day. I think you done an amazing amount for three days. Heck it takes me months to pull of what you have done.

I would not worry about your skill level. You will find with participation here and practice in your shop that it will increase over time. Stu is absolutely right about the shop never being finished so any boo boos you make you can rest assured you probably gonna have chance to do it a different way at some point.

I cannot offer any advise on the weeping wall.

While i am amazed at the new technology Stu mentions, i cannot help but feel that if there is no weeping tile (as i understand it being called) on the other side of the wall, i have visions of the water that is prevented from seeping through the wall, washing away at the very foundations behind the wall or on the side of the building.

It may be near impossible to get at, but may be something that could be the shortest path to a proper solution to keeping your home in place not thinking of the shop issues.

Stu given your past experiences in your building and all your reno work, perhaps you should try steal away to get to see it and advise Kyle. First thoughts i have given the kinds of things Stu has shown in the past was, did the building given its location get a proper inspection at the time of construction taking into account what you mention in brotherly relationships and being in the country.

Might be worth checking out.I apoligize but after what i have seen Stu find in the apartos i aint sure about the building code in Japan or its application.
 
Thanks Guys,

I have been looking for Drylok in Japan and so far have been unsuccessful. The site you sent Stu shows that their address is in Gaienmae near Bell Commons. I will go over tomorrow after I call. Now I got to take up all my floor along the wall. Bummer. I wish I were developing new skills related to woodturning, oh well...

I did get the Nova DVR up on a table. I built the one in their manual. Also, I got the three windows finally installed. In Hawaii I bought a Porter Cable hammer drill and several boxes of Topcon cement screws. I was going to install 2X4s around the shop--near floor at 4ft at 6ft and at 11 ft off which I could build an insulated wall around the shop. But with the weeping I think I am only going to install the two by fours and prepare them as French hooks. I will paint the walls White (with Drylok if I can find it and use the crystals that Stu suggested on all the lower areas. Looking forward to it. But will have to delay a little as I have a big project I am working on in my business. Hopefully, some money will come it so I can finance my woodworking dreams. Thanks Guys, I really appreciate the support you guys give me.
 
Just spoke to XYPEX Japan. They do not sell just the product. They sell the product plus installation. This weekend I will take pictures send them and they will give me a quote.
 
Just got a quote from XYPEX. It will cost approximately US$1,250 to make the repairs and seal the wall. That is, unless they find more problems.... Honestly, I do not see how I can not do it. The integrity of the house is at stake. Such is life. Wonder what else can go wrong.....? Actually, not as bad as I had feared.
 
Sorry to see you're running into weeping issues. It does sound like the builder didn't provide sufficient drainage on the outside of the wall. Like you, I kind of figured it'd cost more than $1250 to treat the wall. Sure seems like it'd be money well spent.
 
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