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Thread: I knew better

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    I knew better


    Making a little project for my church.
    Need to fit 3/4" dowels into holes. Without thinking I bored 3/4" holes with a Forstner bit.
    Of course, the dowels don't fit. So, I reduced the ends using my 1" belt sander/grinder. Not the neatest or best way. I really don't want to buy a set of drills or Forstners that are all 1/16" inch over common sizes. In this case it would 13/64th.
    Wadda y'all do?
    BTW, pic of project later.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  2. #2
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    Been there and done that, but I think I would have used my lathe to reduce the ends of the dowels.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  3. #3
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    Delton, Michigan
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    have used a drill press to do the resizing over this way ..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  4. #4
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    And all this time I thought all of them good ole boys in Arkansas knew how to use a pocketknife for everything!

    Seriously, I've used a sanding block to knock some dowels back a little.
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  5. #5
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    new york city burbs
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    Im not sure where you got the 13/64th, I must be missing something frank. must be why my measurements are always messed up.

    when I make things with dowels that need reducing a pinch at the ends, I clamp a piece of wood on my TS, raise the blade a smidgen at a time and roll the dowel (with a stop block) back and forth over the blade. Keeps it nice and round.
    Last edited by allen levine; 05-03-2012 at 07:39 PM.
    Human Test Dummy

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan View Post
    Been there and done that, but I think I would have used my lathe to reduce the ends of the dowels.
    Wouldn't go through my chuck and arbor and I don't have a center steady for this lathe. Of course, my first instinct was to use the lathe.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  7. #7
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    If I had the larger forstner, I'd drill a hole with it in some scrap, then line up the scrap with the hole spaced over the smaller hole and use the scrap as a guide, fixed to the work piece of course. If not probably as you did if a lathe wasn't available.
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Fusco View Post
    Wouldn't go through my chuck and arbor and I don't have a center steady for this lathe. Of course, my first instinct was to use the lathe.
    Having now seen the finished project, I can see how mounting the long dowels could be a problem.

    In the past, I've had to make a bunch (100+) of 2 1/2" long tapered dowel pegs for my brother-in-law's Viking tents and furniture. Fortunately, the diameter of the dowels was small enough to feed through the spindle of my lathe, and I could grip it with a chuck. I'd feed about 3" of dowel through the headstock, tighten the chuck a bit, take a few passes with the skew, then use a saw to cut off the tapered peg. Once I got a system going, I was cranking out a peg every minute or two.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

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