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Thread: clear filling knot holes

  1. #1
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    clear filling knot holes

    I am working on a rustic table and have some knot holes to fill, I have used 2 part 5 minute clear expoy in the past and it worked ok, is there anything better to use?

  2. #2
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    I have been playing around with the West System and so far I like it. Sets up slower than the 5 minute type, but it has a nice amber color to it when dry.
    If you don't take pride in your work, life get's pretty boring.

    Rule of thumb is if you donít know what tool to buy next, then you probably donít need it yet.

  3. #3
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    I think an acrylic casting resin like this would also work:

    http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/st..._casting?Args=

    That's just the first one I found by Googling. I know there are other brands available, too.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
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    workingwoods.com

  4. #4
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    In a video by David Marks, he shows several options ... flood the knot area with cyanoacrylate to firm it up, then fill the voids with slow set epoxy which can be colored (sawdust of same wood, pigments, etc) to match the wood, several colors can be added and swirled in to give a more natural look .. or, if the knot is a big void, find a good knot of similar size, cut it out via a 1/8" think 'veneer' type slice and inlay it ... or inlay some other wood in the knot area .. just some thoughts for you to consider ... best of luck.

  5. #5
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    Biggest problem with using epoxy or casting resins is air bubbles. I've found it best to use a longer setting filler (30 minutes or more) and over-filling the hole. That way, any bubbles will (hopefully) work their way to the surface before the filler cures.

    Also, stir the filler carefully while mixing, so as not to introduce air into the mix, and finally, use a toothpick, or similar, to carefully 'butter the sides of the void before you pour the filler in. This will help maximize adhesion as well as minimize bubbles.

    BTW, on darker woods, I often dye the epoxy black, using a Behlens brand powdered dye.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  6. #6
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    Most of the time we will use 2 part wood epoxy but the west system works good also. You can tone the either system with powder pigments to match the surroundings.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
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    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  7. #7
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    Guys, re-read the thread title. The OP is looking for a clear filler.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan View Post
    Guys, re-read the thread title. The OP is looking for a clear filler.
    When have we ever read a whole thread?
    If you don't take pride in your work, life get's pretty boring.

    Rule of thumb is if you donít know what tool to buy next, then you probably donít need it yet.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan View Post
    Guys, re-read the thread title. The OP is looking for a clear filler.
    Then the polyester casting resin is probably the best choice, but the exposed (top) surface will cure somewhat sticky, so he'll need to overfill the recess and try to shave off the sticky top surface (it's only a few thou thick, anyway).

  10. #10
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    I found some 20 min epoxy at home depot and tried that it seemed to work ok but I did get some bubbles trapped. I overfilled the voids and scraped them down a few hours later, worked really well. On part of the table there are some bug holes , by some I mean a lot, so it will be some work to scrape them down. I'll have to see how it goes.

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