new/old saw

Frank Fusco

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Messages
12,782
Location
Mountain Home, Arkansas
On way to town today I passed a yard sale sign that said "tools". Had to stop. Wheeled in. The guy was cleaning out his garage and had lots of various tools. This old Craftsman (model 133) table saw was there marked $50.00. I asked him to run it. He had to plug in to run, which it did very smoothly. But the switch was broken. He came down to $40.00, I said I would think on it. He countered with $35.00. I continued looking around and came back and handed him $25.00 which he happily took. It definitely needs cleaning but everything works, motor, a 3/4 hp. is new. I am happy with the big table with wings. Kinda feeble in the power department but I'll look around for a 1 1/2 or 2 hp in 110V. My very old $89.00 Delta will be up for sale. I'll ask $50.00 and take almost anything offered. Not a bad day considering.

Craftsman table saw.jpg
 
table saw - $50 (Millwood)

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Date: 2012-06-08, 9:23PM EDT
Reply to: kcz2x-3053895555@sale.craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]
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Craftsman table saw. Works very well. no scammers, cash only. Must sell, moving to LA.


pretty strange frank, Im looking for a used cheap saw to stick in my sons garage for the time Im doing his kitchen in case I need to rip something on site, and Im going to contact this guy and see if I can get up there monday, Iwas going to offer him 40. looks like the same saw.
 
Thanks all. I'm happy. I'll be out of town today but tomorrow I'll clean it up and remove the old switch. If I can't find a switch locally, Grizzly has a big assortment at good prices. Plus shipping. :(
 
Got it cleaned up today. Took thirty layers of dust off, steel wooled the bed and put good oil where needed. Looks hundreds of times better than when I hauled it in here. Blade looks OK but I plan to order a new one, or two. I installed the guard/splitter. Not sure how long it will stay on but I'll give it a try. Figured out the broken switch isn't broken at all. When the new motor was put on the previous owner simply did not wire the switch into it. And I don't plan to either. I'm ordering a foot switch that will plug directly into the motor. It will be the kind you hit once to turn on and again to turn off. About $15.00 from Harbor Freight.
 
Will that work ok for a safety shut down? Like a paddle over a switch mounted on the saw?

Bart, I gave that careful consideration. The switch mounted on the cabinet is really not in a handy location. It requires reaching under the bed and possible wood to reach. I almost always work alone and sometimes have to support the wood on the outfeed. So a constant pressure switch is out of the question. Safety-wise I believe it will give a tiny margin of added safety but a lot of convenience by allowing both hands to stay free.
 
Would work and be fine. But probably requires being wired in and me and the elektriks thing.....:eek: Wat I'm getting just plugs in.
I see you have to economize on space also. Big difference, mine is not as neat as yours. Organized but not neat, if that makes sense.
 
Chuckle well Frank my craftsman saw wasn't very neat either it used the same switch a black hot wire & a white neutral & a green ground & I usually used 12 gauge good quality cord 15' long. I got rid of the saw but kept the cabinet & will use it for my Dad's 1957 gold anniversary addition craftsman table-saw. I also kept the fence system & put a Rigid fence system that I had on it before I got rid of it.
 

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No doubt I need a new motor. I tried ripping some 2 1/2" seasoned maple (mentioned this on another thread too) and it stopped the 3/4 hp motor dead, as in ded. Blade is recently sharpened. Having to dip into the emergency fund to get another motor. A friend will be picking up a 2 hp. 1 ph at Harbor Freight for me. Price is $149.99.
The maple will be ripped, in the meantime, by a friend with a 3 hp. table saw. I hope my investment pays off.
BTW, what little cutting I have done so far, the foot switch is proving to be a great choice.
 
This is what I was thinking of.

Bart,

Your switch looks similar to what I did for my TS, BS, and Lathe. I have foot switch on DP, jointer, and grinder.

I used tempered masonite for the paddels. It is lighter and does not swing back and turn the machine off because of the lighter weight. My paddles are also larger. The one on my lathe runs the length of the bed (roughly 4 inches vertical and 40 inches horizontal). The TS and 14" BS are about a foot wide, again, the light weight is a big benefit.

The DP and grinder are "dead man" because I, basically stand in one place. The jointer has "push for on" and push again for off because I do move around. The jointer swx. is placed about the middle of the range of body movement. Therefore one foot or the other can reach it. It slides under the jointer when not in use and I have a separate swx. on the jointer that stays in the off position when not in use---to avoid accidental "step on swx." accidents.

I have thought about making a long knee swx. for the jointer, like on the lathe. However, that is quite a ways down on my list.

Enjoy,

JimB
 
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