Drill press table with pics

Dan Forman

Member
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60
Location
Spokane, WA
Well, I finally (just about) finished this up, all there is left to do is set up the fence with cam actuated locks, then make a circle jig so that i can bandsaw a few replaceable inserts. It doesn't really show, but the hole for the inserts is offset, so that the insert can be turned a number of times, revealing a fresh surface as needed. The lighting in this corner of the shop is not very even, so please forgive the high contrast in the photos.

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The table is two layers of 3/4" melamine, the trim and drawer face is lighly spalted birch. The box that supports the table and holds the drawer is 1/2" baltic birch, and the drawer is aspen. Table is 18 x 28".

P1010664.jpg


P1010663.jpg


The drawer box supporting the table provides enough extra room to be able to crank the table up and down without busting my knuckles against the table.

The fence is a piece of 1/4" x 2 x 2 aluminum angle. I took a chunk out of the center to allow for chuck access if I need to drill right next to the fence. I'm going with cam locks on it so that I won't be banging my knuckles every time I go to move it.

Not sure that I like the type of hold down I have presently, doesn't seem too secure, so will keep looking.

I borrowed the design from Photog over on WoodNet, so I can't claim credit for much of anything as far as that goes other than choice of wood. If I were to make another one, I would go with 1/2" malamine instead of 3/4", which would make for a lighter table, would also eliminate the need to rout out the fence/hold down slots, as the aluminum channel is 1/2" deep, and could be accomodated by making the top layer of melamine in three pieces.

Dan
 
WOW! That is one awesome table, Dan. Beautiful construction, and the choice of wood trim is striking! Look forward to seeing more details on your fence. Also, and pics of the back, and with the drawer open?

I have the Steel City DP and a Woodpecker table top and have really been enjoying it. I came from a very small bench top, and I find myself using the DP much more often that I thought. I do less and less with a hand drill, unless the location just makes it easier.

Again, very nice!
 
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I borrowed the design from Photog over on WoodNet, so I can't claim credit for much of anything as far as that goes other than choice of wood. If I were to make another one, I would go with 1/2" malamine instead of 3/4", which would make for a lighter table, would also eliminate the need to rout out the fence/hold down slots, as the aluminum channel is 1/2" deep, and could be accomodated by making the top layer of melamine in three pieces.

Dan
Nice work! Hope you don't mind if I "borrow" the design from you! :D
 
I have always snickered when I see people put all this effort into Drill press tables. Always thought what a waste of effort that could be spent building furniture or something really useful. (Keep reading!!)

Then I started using the Craftsman drill press I restored. I go to use it last week on a project where I needed a fence to hold the part(s) against I was working on. I grabbed a scrap of wood and my quick acting clamps to hold the make-shift fence in place as I have done for years. To my surprise the shape of the table on the craftsman is not conducive to clamping a fence down. It can be done but you need three hands and it's a royal pain in the rear! Not to mention if you need to make a small adjustment to the fence both clamps end up in the floor! :doh:

So now I must say I like that Drill Press Table. :eek: I think I am going to build something similar! :)

Jeff
Who learns something new all the time!
 
Hi Dan;
Very nice work, & nice touch on the drawer face. Thanks for the large clear photos. As a complement to you, I can easily take your idea an adapt it to my standing DP. Like another poster mentioned, I have a simple chewed up board clamped to the table. This makes a lot more sense, and a place to keep DP stuff.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Thanks guys. Here is a link to the thread at WoodNet from which I borrowed the design. http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbth...=&Board=UBB8&Number=2732968&fpart=&PHPSESSID=

It also shows how to make some stops for the fence, which I will be doing soon.

Greg---I used to think that the dp was a luxury, and it was way down on the list of things needed. Now I seldom use the handrill anything other than for countersinking and driving screws, or if the piece is just to big or unwieldy.

Not much to the fence, used a jigsaw to cut out the piece in the center to allow room for the chuck when drilling near the fence, then tidied things up with a file and some sandpaper. All that's left is drill a couple of holes for the cam locks, which I'll have to order from Lee Valley, then it will run in the aluminum T slots.

Vaughn---The drawer is very handy to store odds and ends, also to protect the knuckles!

Rennie---Feel free, there are now a few of these in existence. See above link for the original.

Jesse---The funny thing is, the birch I used was about the cheapest wood I had on hand. It's sold as "character birch" because of all the "defects",a little spalting, a few knots, and wormholes. Cost about $1.50 bf. I kind of like it though.

Jeff---I hear you about the problems using clamps on a CI table, not fun.

Mike---Thanks, but again, can't take credit for the idea, other than recognizing that it was a good design and borrowing it myself.

Dan
 
Thanks Allen and Don. The circular insert is definately the most distinct feature of this design. Don't know why nobody thought of it before, wish I could take the credit for it. :D

Dan
 
I wish someone had thought of it years before when the shop class was busy drilling holes in the table on mine! I had thought of welding a plate on it, but the more I look at this thread, the more I think I may want to do something like this with a drawer.

Thanks for posting it Dan.
 
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