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Thread: Hardwood and finish question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    GTA Ontario Canada
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    Hardwood and finish question

    I need some guidance here please.

    The inlay i made to my bench is bloodwood. In my limited experience this wood is so hard it fits into that category of hardwoods like Jatoba where the density is so tight it makes for real fine dust when cutting and the wood is what i would almost describe as brittle. Cracks very quickly.

    So i thought to copy some of you who have treated your workbench in blo and mineral spirits.

    Anyhow mixed a 50/50 mix thinking that the thin liquid would quickly penetrate the whole top of my bench and that would be that.

    Well yes except for the bloodwood. It probably has "penetrated some but it also seems to just have settled on the top and made a shiny film over the bloodwood as if i had sealed it with a varnish.

    Now given this is a work surface thats not going to stay there long in fact i will remove it when its dry. But it did bring up the whole issue to me of understanding how woods like Bloodwood get finished or what treatment to use for finishing this kind of super dense wood.

    When i cut this wood on my bandsaw and later on the router the powder it creates is like no other wood. Obviously worse because its red so you see it easier but wow its a very different kind of sawdust. It really is dust rather than tiny woodchip.

    So how would you have treated this flat sawn piece of bloodwood to get it to absorb any finish.?

    By comparison i have walnut and oak and ash all on the same bench and none had any issue with the blo/mineral spirit mix. They have all absorbed it well and darkened nicely.
    cheers

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    In my limited experience with bloodwood, it seems to have a good amount of natural oils. These oils prevent the wood from soaking up the thinned BLO, but on the other hand, because of the oils, the wood doesn't need the BLO to the extent that some other woods do.

    Long story short, I wouldn't get too worried about the maple leaf not soaking up any BLO.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
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    Interesting. Is padauk similar, as I have an unfinished plane for which I am using padauk as the soul, er, sole.
    Cheers,
    Roger


    The other member of Mensa, but not the NRA

    Everyone is a self-made person.

    "The thing about quotes on the internet is that you cannot confirm their veracity" -Abraham Lincoln

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Tulk View Post
    Interesting. Is padauk similar, as I have an unfinished plane for which I am using padauk as the soul, er, sole.
    The padauk I've worked with is not quite as oily as bloodwood, but it sure is good at producing fine orange dust that you will be finding throughout your shop for months afterward. I'll let someone who's more experience in wooden planes chime in, but I'd think padauk would work fine for a plane sole...although I'd make sure it has a good coat of wax on it.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    So. Florida
    Posts
    268
    The sanding regimen might have been too smooth. I would go to 180x, or with some denser woods 150x. I would do a wipe down with acetone before applying the finish. I don't do oil/wax finishes. I don't apply wax to any finish.





    .

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    GTA Ontario Canada
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    Thanks, Vaughn i did notice the oils or resin in the wood when i routed a bit and it got too hot. Makes sense now. Anyhow will bank this for future.
    cheers

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