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got my motor.....but..........

Sounds like you're on track to have one heck of a wood-cutting beastie there, Frank. :thumb:

Frank Fusco said:
...I understand the linker run very smoothly and last a long time. Might be very useful on Reeves drive equipment.
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I could be mistaken, but I don't think a link belt would work on a Reeves drive. All of the Reeves drives I've seen used a wider belt. (Take that with a grain of salt...I've only seen a few Reeves drives.)
 
Vaughn McMillan said:
Sounds like you're on track to have one heck of a wood-cutting beastie there, Frank. :thumb:

I could be mistaken, but I don't think a link belt would work on a Reeves drive. All of the Reeves drives I've seen used a wider belt. (Take that with a grain of salt...I've only seen a few Reeves drives.)
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I don't think so either, Vaughn. My old (meaning I don't have it anymore) 15" Craftsman lathe had a Reeve's drive and a link belt wouldn't have worked. The belt wasn't really all that much more wide, but it was deeper. Had to be a little beefier to handle the stresses of the variable pully(s).
 
Vaughn McMillan said:
Sounds like you're on track to have one heck of a wood-cutting beastie there, Frank. :thumb:



I could be mistaken, but I don't think a link belt would work on a Reeves drive. All of the Reeves drives I've seen used a wider belt. (Take that with a grain of salt...I've only seen a few Reeves drives.)
Click to expand...

Billy Burt said:
I don't think so either, Vaughn. My old (meaning I don't have it anymore) 15" Craftsman lathe had a Reeve's drive and a link belt wouldn't have worked. The belt wasn't really all that much more wide, but it was deeper. Had to be a little beefier to handle the stresses of the variable pully(s).
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You are both correct. The Reeves drive as you refer to it was officially called a PIV or positive infinitly variable speed unit.It was first introduced by the Reeves company which was later bought out by Reliance electric. Many knock offs were built after the patent ran out and they were refered to as Reeves drives much the same as nose tissue is called Kleanex. Any who only the side of the belt makes contact with the disks. The way you change the speed is by changing the distance between discs and since they are cone shaped the belt will go towards the center as they are opened wider and it will travel to the outside as you close the distance between them a link belt would not have the surface area to provide a positive drive since the sides are sorta jagged.
 
Ok so Frank i cant stand the suspense are we cutting wood on that saw or not??? lol my thumb is going blue from holding it on your behalf.

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Got the switch. More problems.
The friend who volunteered to do my wiring isn't as expert as some friends from other projects. Took some time to explain how I wanted it done. Enneywho, the switch won't work for this. Using 10 ga. wire, it is too thick to screw onto the switch. Just won't work. We are getting some 12 ga. and connectors to modify a little bit. The saga continues. :(
 
Frank Fusco said:
Got the switch. More problems.
The friend who volunteered to do my wiring isn't as expert as some friends from other projects. Took some time to explain how I wanted it done. Enneywho, the switch won't work for this. Using 10 ga. wire, it is too thick to screw onto the switch. Just won't work. We are getting some 12 ga. and connectors to modify a little bit. The saga continues. :(
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I thought about that but if we told you everything there wouldn't be anything left for you to learn. ;)
 
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Good news/bad news.
I guess the good news is I should consider myself blessed. My friend who was helping is almost exactly the same age as I am. I discovered his brain function has slowed considerably compared to mine. When we discussed something it took him several minutes to think over (process) and understand. Even then, he often forgot what we were talking about seconds later. For me, very frustrating and a sad experience. Up/downside of the day of wiring this motor and table saw was he got it working. But, he forgot to put the wires through the hole in the cover for the wire-birds nest-tangle on the motor. I didn't say anything because he was tired and correcting this would have taken a couple more hours.
So, after he left,I tried to rewire and put the wires through the hole. :dunno: Uh-Oh! Thought I got them all back the same but motor now will not run, just buzzes. Taking off connectors and retrying has made the wires from the motor shorter and nearing not having enough left to work with. Today will approach again. Puzzling part is this is a straightforward wiring thing. I'm really bumfuzzled as to what might have gone wrong. I think I have some alligator clip wires left from the farming days. If these are #12 wire I should be able to figure out quickly what the right wire arrangement should be. There goes my afternoon. :(
 
I wish I was closer, Frank. I'd come over and help you out. It shouldn't be that difficult, but for those who's electrical expertise is only the "I know how to plug it onto the wall" kind, it can seem daunting. But you'll get there.
 
Thanks, Billy. I am a hair better than that. I can do things but don't understand the volt/wattage/phase/ohms/etc. stuff. Never studied it.
See next post for latest on this continuing saga.
 
done

:D OK, got lucky, smart, fully caffinated :coffee: or was holding my mouth right.
Now wired properly and it works. :bliss:
Took another look. Here was problem: the motor wires are all black, they are identified by teensy markings as "F1", "T4, T8", etc.
When I disconnected and reconnected I got the F wire connected to a T. Not good. :( No turn, just buzz.
Well, this a.m. I went back, used a flashlight, took of glasses, got real close, scrunched eyes and discovered the error. Rewired the F to the ground, as it should be, put the correct T with the other correct T and tried. :woot: it worked. :champagne:
I know it should not have been a big project. Unfortunately, my well meaning friend was not up to the job either. Happens at my age level. Enneyhow, the saw is up and running. I'll try for cutting power another time but am confident it will serve me well for longer than I am around.
As requested, pics are attached. :photographer:
One is motor, other is my new switch. Old one (disconnected) is below.saw motor.jpgsaw switch.jpg
 
Frank, before you blow something up or burn your house down, can you post a photo or two showing where the wires connect to the motor, as well as a shot or two of the plugs you're using? This isn't rocket surgery...there should only be three or four wires involved
 
Phew just in time i was about to loose a couple of thumbs with them going purple. :) Happy for you Frank do as Vaughn has said just to be safe.
But looks to me like you now gonna have to paint that black frame to match the shiny new motor. :)


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:)
Vaughn McMillan said:
Frank, before you blow something up or burn your house down, can you post a photo or two showing where the wires connect to the motor, as well as a shot or two of the plugs you're using? This isn't rocket surgery...there should only be three or four wires involved
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Vaughn, I don't plan to reopen that circuit box on the motor in this lifetime. No pic. Sorry. Enneyhow, I do have circuit breakers and homeowners insurance. :eek:
In the box are five wires. Four are labeled as 'T' wires. e.g. T1, T4, T5 and T8, one is labeled as P1. P1 is the ground.
The others are connected in pairs to reverse direction of the motor. So, the wired pairs and ground present only three wires into the, yes, correct 220V plugs.
It turns well, no smells or funny noises. I am confident it is correct.
As for rotation, we got lucky, it turns the way I need. In fact the clock-wise and counter clock-wise thing confuses me. As in, looking at motor from which direction? :huh: It turns the way I need that is all that matters.
It is now waiting for a project. I'm thinking a cane stand/bucket for my growing collection of canes I don't need........yet.
Also a new blade is planned. When it arrives, my $25.00 table saw will have cost me only $300.00.:saythat:
 
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