Fair projects

Jim DeLaney

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Here are a couple items I'm entering in the local (Canfield, Ohio) fair.

First is a finger-jointed poplar box, with a cherry top, and inlaid ribbon and bow made from laminated cedar and maple. Finish is a Transtint honey maple dye on the poplar (none on the cherry or the ribbon) and five or six coats of Target EM-6000.

DSCN0908 [800x600].jpgDSCN0910 [800x600].jpg

Second is a walnut sided tray, with a tiger maple bottom, and tiger maple inlays around the inside. It's about 9" X 12", and 2½" deep. The corners are mitered, with a 10° outward slope. Finish is two coats of dewaxed garnet shellac, and about ten coats of General Finishes waterborne lacquer.DSCN0912 [800x600].jpgDSCN0914 [800x600].jpgDSCN0915 [800x600].jpg

Wish me luck - the fair (which is actually bigger than the Ohio State Fair) starts next week.
 
Beautiful work Jim if that box aint a prize heck i dont know what is then. You had me totally fooled .....er initially. At first i thought what the heck Jim you just entering a box that seems way below your pay grade. :) At that time i thought heck he just tied it up with ribbon to make it look fancy. Then i noticed the ribbon is made of laminated different colored wood. Wow wow wow.

To be honest i love the finish and wood choice on the tray but ....it looks heavy. How thick is the wooden side sections. They seem i would guess around 5/8" dunno just has a heavy set to it. But that could be the picture. Well done anyhow dont mind my comment its just an idiots opinion. That wood sure looks good. :thumb: Will hold thumbs for you too. When i am done holding thumbs for you and Frank on his machine and Dan on his entries i think i will need a doctor. :)
 
Beautiful work Jim if that box aint a prize heck i dont know what is then. You had me totally fooled .....er initially. At first i thought what the heck Jim you just entering a box that seems way below your pay grade. :) At that time i thought heck he just tied it up with ribbon to make it look fancy. Then i noticed the ribbon is made of laminated different colored wood. Wow wow wow.

To be honest i love the finish and wood choice on the tray but ....it looks heavy. How thick is the wooden side sections. They seem i would guess around 5/8" dunno just has a heavy set to it. But that could be the picture. Well done anyhow dont mind my comment its just an idiots opinion. That wood sure looks good. :thumb: Will hold thumbs for you too. When i am done holding thumbs for you and Frank on his machine and Dan on his entries i think i will need a doctor. :)

Glad you like the box, Rob. The ribbon is about 3/16" thick, and is inset into the box ends and top about half depth (3/32").

The tray's sides are 7/16" thick, so not as heavy as it appears to you.
 
I saw the thread title and thought "Jim's work is usually much better than fair."

Turns out I was right about these two pieces, too. :clap: They both look great. Best of luck in the judging. :thumb:
 
Great pieces Jim, I am with Rob on the ribbon, could not figure that out UNTIL I expanded the pic and then WOW:thumb: I really like the tray also, one has been on my "must build" list for some time now. Excellent work:)
 
Those look great Jim. I especially like the ribbon. Good luck at the competition. I hope the judges are woodworkers, who can appreciate the thought, effort, and craftsmanship you put into the pieces.
 
well done jim,, the box is slick.. that water born finish must be working well for you

Larry,
The more I use the WB lacquers, the more I like them - easy to spray - pretty much right out of the can, and clean-up is certainly easy, too. I just empty the gun, run some soapy water thru it, then some airbrush cleaner, then some clean water, and a little alcohol at the end, to get all the water out. The whole clean=up takes about two or three minutes.

The finish they give is very smooth and clear, and requires hardly any rubout.

I have had some problems with the WB polyurethanes, though. I've tried three different brands, and have had coat-to-coat adhesion problems with all of them. If you wait overnight to re-coat, they won't adhere well. That's not a problem with the lacquers: They seem to burn in quite well.
 
uh....jim......I thought I could recoat with the waterborne after 60 minutes?

the coats feel dry to touch within 10 minutes, Im hoping I dont have to wait overnight, I havent so far.
 
uh....jim......I thought I could recoat with the waterborne after 60 minutes?

the coats feel dry to touch within 10 minutes, Im hoping I dont have to wait overnight, I havent so far.

I think you mis-read what Jim said. You should be fine recoating water-based poly after 60 minutes, but if you wait overnight, there can be problems getting the new coat to adhere to the old coat. In other words, you're doing it right. ;)
 
ok, didnt want to have to start calling someone else and asking how to undo my mistakes.

btw, jim, thats one dandy box top. hope you show me how to cut that on the scroll saw when I see you.
 
uh....jim......I thought I could recoat with the waterborne after 60 minutes?

the coats feel dry to touch within 10 minutes, Im hoping I dont have to wait overnight, I havent so far.

Vaughn already answered for me. Yeah, sure, you can recoat the poly after 60 minutes - maybe even less - but if you wait too long, you'll have to sand with 180 or 220 before another coat, and even then it might not adhere. The problem arises whe I'm working late in the evening, quit, and then decide it needs another coat or two the following morning.

Note I said poly. I know you're using EM-6000, and that's a WB lacquer. I haven't had any problems with either EM-6000 or General Finish's "Enduro" lacquer.
 
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