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Thread: Plane Iron - Resetting Primary Bevel sans Grinder

  1. #1

    Plane Iron - Resetting Primary Bevel sans Grinder


    I recently picked up a Miller Falls 22c (22" corrugated)... basically a Stanley 7c. The iron in it is severely cambered... about 1/16th. Not to open the cambered / non-cambered discussion, I want to re-grind this to a flat blade. I don't have a grinding wheel and this is waaaaay too much material to try to remove w/ 80-grit on glass.

    Does anyone have a suggestion of what to try? I've got files but none of them are fine files. I'm also leery of filing an edge so far away from my desired 25* that I end up spending hours on the 80-grit anyway.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Gonzales, Louisiana
    Do you have a belt sander? That's typically where I start on rehabing irons and chisels anyway.

    Just take it slow as to not overheat and change the temper.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    SW Minnesota
    I agree with Tom, a belt sander is the way to go. I use a cheap sharpening guide to hold the iron at the proper angle. Another advantage is that I don't have as much trouble overheating the edge as when I used a grinder for shaping.

  4. #4
    Nope, no belt sander. All I have is a ROS and a little 1/4 sheet jiggle sander. I've been doing some thinking about just cutting some wood to the proper angle, strapping it all together, then just being careful with a file....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
    Stanley makes a set with a sharpening stone, oil and a bevel guide for about $12. You can rub the blade against the stone until it reaches the desired bevel. It takes a long time, and you'll probably get fed up and buy a used bench sander...

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Central NY State
    I think your best bet is 80 grit and a honing guide. I have never used a file on a plane blade, I think it would be quite difficult to obtain a flat bevel.
    Stones will take way too long. I think you'll be surprised how quickly sandpaper will work.
    If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the precipitate.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Honolulu, Hawaii
    David, I agree with Ken on using the sandpaper method, but I think I would go to 100 grit "wet-or-dry" paper and use it with a water lube, (maybe a pump bottle spray). Ought to work fast enough. As Ken said, you "will" be surprised how quickly it will cut.

    I also agree with using the bevel guide holder (the one with the roller) as this helps you keep a consistant angle.

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  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Cape Cod, Ma.
    Ive used a mill file to get it close when I have picked up used planes and the blades are messed. Just take it slow, the file will remove a bulk of the material much quicker than sandpaper (in lieu of a belt sander of course) just follow the 25 degree bevel as close as you can with the file, even a stronger angle 28 + then when you hone you are honing the cutting edge and not the heel bringing you back to the 25 much quicker.
    He who laughs last, thinks slowest

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