TV wall unit a W.I.P.

Bryan Cowing

Member
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728
Location
Ridgetown, Ontario, Canada
Fellow I made a stereo stand for a few years ago wants a wall unit for his rec room. From his sketch, this online one is close to what he wants. So far I picked up the oak veneer from HD , cut to approx size. Had this used TS for 5 years, 1st time trying the scoring blades on veneer. Took a lot of fiddling, but when set up with a zero clearance insert I made, got very nice clean cuts. :thumb:
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honey do list almost done :thumb:, got a few hours in Saturday, drilled shelf pin holes first this time before assembly! :D
If I get the 2 cabs glued up this am I can start the face frame :thumb:
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looks like your moving right along bryan,, that jig your using for the shelf holes where did you get that.. havnt seen one like that one which works on both sides at once.. do you have some kind of stop applied to your bit to prevent drilling through the ply sides..?
 
looks like your moving right along bryan,, that jig your using for the shelf holes where did you get that.. havnt seen one like that one which works on both sides at once.. do you have some kind of stop applied to your bit to prevent drilling through the ply sides..?
Lee Valley sells them, bought this one 20 yrs ago, been using it for a long time. I bought the longer rods, use a 1/4" lipped drill bit to try and get cleaner holes. Handy jig!
Yes, you need a stop collar too.
change the currency for usa prices, I have it set on canadian dollars.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32251&cat=1,180,42311
 
Its funny, I noticed that jig also.
Ive been using pegboard forever.
But Alan and Karl introduced me to those 5mm screws to put in drawer slides, and I was thinking about ordering a jig for shelf pins and 5mm holes for slides.(I made a huge order from McFeelys the other day, enough screws and hinges to last me a long time, 15% off, 1 dollar shipping, cant beat it for the quality)
Think Ill take a look over there and make an order.

Brian, its always a pleasure to follow along on your builds. Thanx for sharing the steps, just want you to know some of us woodworkers look foward to guys like you , glenn,and alan posting up step by step builds, techniques, equipment used, etc.
 
At least I got the 2 cabs glued up today, as I thought I might get to mill some of the clients Ash he cut from his bush . Had to do some trimming to get the parts to got together right. My back dado wasn't deep enough for the 3/16" thick panel.:huh:

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Looks like your making some good progress there Bryan.:thumb:

I have a couple of questions for you.

If your using a scoring blade then whats the purpose of the "zero" clearance insert? I've never had a problem with tearout when using the scoring function on a slider and have even cut chip free with the proper blade and no scoring.

Are you just relying on glue in the dados of the cabinets to hold them together?

Have you thought about pocket screws to hold the assembly together while the glue sets? We do it all the time at work for finished ends of cabinets.

I myself use this style of joint and can preassemble the cabinet with out clamps to check fit and use a pin nail in the corner thru the tongue with glue for when I do permanently assemble it.
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Its funny, I noticed that jig also.
Ive been using pegboard forever.
But Alan and Karl introduced me to those 5mm screws to put in drawer slides, and I was thinking about ordering a jig for shelf pins and 5mm holes for slides.(I made a huge order from McFeelys the other day, enough screws and hinges to last me a long time, 15% off, 1 dollar shipping, cant beat it for the quality)
Think Ill take a look over there and make an order.

Brian, its always a pleasure to follow along on your builds. Thanx for sharing the steps, just want you to know some of us woodworkers look foward to guys like you , glenn,and alan posting up step by step builds, techniques, equipment used, etc.

I couldn't bring myself to spend that much on a jig to drill holes. I just make one up from scrap 1/4" ply or masonite and a 3/8" forstner bit. This one I did for my shop cabinets and cut it to use for other projects. The bit on the left is 5mm and the one on the right is 1/4". Both work in the same jig.
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Looks like your making some good progress there Bryan.:thumb:

I have a couple of questions for you.

If your using a scoring blade then whats the purpose of the "zero" clearance insert? I've never had a problem with tearout when using the scoring function on a slider and have even cut chip free with the proper blade and no scoring. I had to swap out the insert, so had to make one .

Are you just relying on glue in the dados of the cabinets to hold them together? and biscuts on the face frame. No brads.

Have you thought about pocket screws to hold the assembly together while the glue sets? We do it all the time at work for finished ends of cabinets. Clamps are fine for me . I'm a low production woodworker, maybe once a year someone wants something made, and I'm in no hurry.
I myself use this style of joint and can preassemble the cabinet with out clamps to check fit and use a pin nail in the corner thru the tongue with glue for when I do permanently assemble it.
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Thanks!
 
I couldn't bring myself to spend that much on a jig to drill holes. I just make one up from scrap 1/4" ply or masonite and a 3/8" forstner bit. This one I did for my shop cabinets and cut it to use for other projects. The bit on the left is 5mm and the one on the right is 1/4". Both work in the same jig.
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Those look neat. That was not available when I bought my jig. I have had it a long time, maybe 23 yrs, LOL!! I like your face frame to ply joint!
 
the planer/molder is something I must look into.
It was a troublesome project using my router table to make crown molding with a 3 inch high thick bit.
That planer - molder was my 1st planer, bought it in 1980. Never used it for molding till I bought a 100 yr old house and used it to reproduce the door and window casing, baseboard. Doesn't get much use now. I bought 2 sizes of crown knives that fit the Asian planer - molders, and modified the aluminum wedge blocks to fit the old Foley.
 
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