Great Job Bryan!! I am following with keen interest.
I have a question about the shaper. I have the same machine and I find that the spindle moves slightly to the right when I try to lock the height. The locking wheel on he left side of the machine base seems to move the spindle and motor when tightened. This puts the cutter at an angle and changes the tolerances on the coping. I seem to always have a gap in the mortise and tenon portion of the stile and rail. Not sure if I am explaining this right,
but have you dealt with this type of problem?
Can't answer the tilt problem, sounds like something loose inside the cabinet. I don't have that problem , and I have owned it since new, some 20+ yrs.
If you have a gap here
remove shims, too tight add shims between this cutter stack
If you have a gap here
then back off the shaper fence till the cutters just start taking wood off here.
For square doors, you need to cut the rail ends square and the coping sled has to be square to the mitre slot. When I first started making doors, I made a coping sled with hold down toggle clamps. My doors when assembled always out of square a little bit. I fixed that by making the wooden mitre slot runner ajustable to the wooden sled so I could set it to 90 degrees. I now use a Shop Fox sled.
I don't cut my rails and stiles to width ( + 1/4" to 3/8" in width) till the shaping is done. That way if I get any chip out I can take another pass. If I set the fence so zero wood is removed in width, I take a 1/16 "pass on the jointer and send it through again on the shaper, usually will give me a chip free edge. If you set the shaper fence up so 1/16" is removed from the stock, a second pass cleans up any chip out. Then I cut to width + 1/16" for a pass on the jointer.
I'm a hobby woodworker, and this works for me for the few doors I make each yr.