TV wall unit a W.I.P.

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Glass doors today. Customer wants arch topped doors, not my favourite thing to make. I made a jig, cut a arch as given by my door calculator program. On the backside of the top pieces i sawed back the stock so a square sheet of glass would fit.
 
Great Job Bryan!! I am following with keen interest.

I have a question about the shaper. I have the same machine and I fin that the spindle moves slightly to the right when I try to lock the height. The locking wheel on he left side of the machine base seems to move the spindle and motor when tightened. This puts the cutter at an angle and changes the tolerances on the coping. I seem to always have a gap in the mortise and tenon portion of the stile and rail. Not sure if I am explaining this right, but have you dealt with this type of problem?
 
During clamp up I find adding short bessy k bodys to the joint keeps it lined up. I have recently been doing the same for joints on large panel glue ups.
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I use the vice grip type clamps for that same purpose. I can set the vise clamps to just the smallest amount of pressure and that settles the joint up. I only use very slight pressure so that the round clamp foot doesn't leave a dent in the wood.
 
Great Job Bryan!! I am following with keen interest.

I have a question about the shaper. I have the same machine and I find that the spindle moves slightly to the right when I try to lock the height. The locking wheel on he left side of the machine base seems to move the spindle and motor when tightened. This puts the cutter at an angle and changes the tolerances on the coping. I seem to always have a gap in the mortise and tenon portion of the stile and rail. Not sure if I am explaining this right,
but have you dealt with this type of problem?

Can't answer the tilt problem, sounds like something loose inside the cabinet. I don't have that problem , and I have owned it since new, some 20+ yrs.

If you have a gap here
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remove shims, too tight add shims between this cutter stack
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If you have a gap here
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then back off the shaper fence till the cutters just start taking wood off here.
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For square doors, you need to cut the rail ends square and the coping sled has to be square to the mitre slot. When I first started making doors, I made a coping sled with hold down toggle clamps. My doors when assembled always out of square a little bit. I fixed that by making the wooden mitre slot runner ajustable to the wooden sled so I could set it to 90 degrees. I now use a Shop Fox sled.

I don't cut my rails and stiles to width ( + 1/4" to 3/8" in width) till the shaping is done. That way if I get any chip out I can take another pass. If I set the fence so zero wood is removed in width, I take a 1/16 "pass on the jointer and send it through again on the shaper, usually will give me a chip free edge. If you set the shaper fence up so 1/16" is removed from the stock, a second pass cleans up any chip out. Then I cut to width + 1/16" for a pass on the jointer.

I'm a hobby woodworker, and this works for me for the few doors I make each yr.
 
I bought 1- 4x8 sheet of 3/4" oak veneer from the local HD, had them cut it into 2'x2' pieces, size needed was just under 23" for length and widths. Back at the shop I milled 3/4" x 7/8" ash, used 2 biscuits to align & glued them on the front of the shelves and let them sit overnight. I trimmed all 8 for depth , but cross cutting with a new 80T blade was ripping out the underside. I installed the 4" single scoring blade on the saw, and cut the rest of the shelves to width. I rounded over all the edges of the shelves with the small router. I do need to make some glass stop for the upper doors, should be able to start staining soon.
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IMG_6115.JPGhallway to my man cave, stairs to upper floor
IMG_0786.JPGman cave, used to be pink insulation on 2 walls. Left wall was put up 4 yrs ago to separate off a furnace room.

now youre talking bryan.

I hate drywall, taping it is a PITA. Almost got the walls done to the 12 x18 room, but also includes a 12 ft long hallway and also the stairwell to the main floor as the builder left it half done. I hope to start the on the TV room ceiling. I have roxul to put up, then the resilient channel, then the drywall using a lift. I'm hoping I can get this done within 2 weeks so I can get back in the shop. Projects are piling up! All this work cause I bought a new TV :rolleyes:
 
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