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Thread: Help flattening chisel with bevel on back

  1. #1

    Help flattening chisel with bevel on back

    I'm working on sharpening a chisel recently bought a flea market to be used as a paring chisel. While flattening the back, I discovered the back edge of the chisel had a bevel about 1/16" wide.

    This would mean that I'd have to raise the chisel to get any cutting action, which seems to violate the use for paring/shaving.

    I've attached some pictures below and would appreciate advice and counsel on how to proceed.


    Full chisel view (back side)
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    Front of chisel
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Back of chisel
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks,

    Jim

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
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    2,746
    You will probably have to grind the bevel back to the flat part of the back. Or use this one for opening paint cans and find another chisel.
    Cheers,
    Roger


    The other member of Mensa, but not the NRA

    Everyone is a self-made person.

    "The thing about quotes on the internet is that you cannot confirm their veracity" -Abraham Lincoln

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Austin, Texas
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    1,448
    I'm with Roger, but, from the picture, it looks like the front bevel is too steep to be useful opening paint cans.

    I doubt if it is as bad as you think. A belt sander can be used to do the rough shaping before you move to a better flatter sharpening device - just be careful not to overheat the edge until it loses temper (a glass of water at hand while you are working can keep it cool). After the back is flat, the front bevel can be rough cut with a simple jig, or a grinder with the guide set for the desired angle.

    I cannot read the brand stamped on the chisel, but the fact that they were proud of the brand probably means the chisel wasn't an 1890 WalMart special.
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
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    5,320
    I'd grind the edge back to get rid of the bevel, then put a new bevel on the front (only ). Since you want to use it as a paring chisel, I'd make the new bevel pretty shallow - like maybe 15 ~ 20.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
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    17,471
    what jim said!!
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Plesums View Post
    I'm with Roger, but, from the picture, it looks like the front bevel is too steep to be useful opening paint cans.
    Yeah, I missed that. I use a belt sander for putting new bevels on chisels and plane blades, then hone on waterstones. Works fine.
    Cheers,
    Roger


    The other member of Mensa, but not the NRA

    Everyone is a self-made person.

    "The thing about quotes on the internet is that you cannot confirm their veracity" -Abraham Lincoln

  7. #7
    Thanks for the input folks. I'll go forward with flattening the back and changing the bevel on the front with a beltsander and then hone/polish on waterstones.

    Not sure I'd use this chisel to open paint cans as I already have a 3lb sledge for that. :-)

    Jim

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Oceanside, So. Calif. 5 mi. to the ocean
    Posts
    4,944
    You got it!

    I'm With Jim D and Larry M and their advise.

    Enjoy,

    JimB
    First of all you have to be smarter than the machine.
    VOTING MEMBER

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