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Thread: how do I drill out a 3 and 1/8th hole in thick wood?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    new york city burbs

    how do I drill out a 3 and 1/8th hole in thick wood?

    The following pictures are of a prototype of a free standing small wine wack Im trying to make.
    I used junk 2x6's and a damaged piece of plywood for the base, its only a sample to work on.
    My problem:
    even with my large forstner bit, its just not making the holes. It took me over an hour to get 2 holes, and the bit is just about shot, smoking, not cutting anymore.
    There isnt a large choice for 3 and 1/8th forstner bits on the market.

    I thought about using a hole saw, but they only go 1 and 5/8th depth.

    any thoughts how I can drill through 4 inches, or do I have to make each board 1.5 inches and glue up after I drill?
    Will a hole blade cut through walnut? cherry?

    as seen in pictures, I gave up after the second hole, but I think my idea and design is obvious, what Im going for.(the top will be cut at 20 degrees also, I just didnt have long enough 2x6s)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails kitchen reface 167 (Medium).jpg   kitchen reface 164 (Medium).jpg  
    Human Test Dummy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Portland, Oregon
    I'm not sure if one of these wing cutters would work Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	70933 or you might have to invest in a holesaw
    Jesus was a Woodworker

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Central NY State
    Nice design!
    To use such a big forstner bit, a couple of things come to mind.
    A bit that big has to run at a really slow speed.
    It also needs to be sharp.
    If it's smoking, I think the above 2 conditions are not being met.

    Another thought, is to adapt the design, and have the holder U-shaped in cross section, with just the outer parts drilled out. Then you can have the same overall width, but just drill a couple of much shallower holes. You could also use a hole saw, drill a pilot hole all the way through, and then come in from both sides. You'd be limited to twice the max depth of the hole saw. All in all, that would probably give you a rougher cut though.

    Just want to repeat, really clever design.
    If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the precipitate.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Santa Claus, In
    I would still go with the hole saw. Just go full depth and snap off the piece and go again until pass made all the way. By snapping I am thinking a wood chisel and breaking out what you have cut. I think the wing cutter won't like being in and out of the wood.
    If you don't take pride in your work, life get's pretty boring.

    Rule of thumb is if you donít know what tool to buy next, then you probably donít need it yet.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    falcon heights, minnesota
    i like the idea allen, but wouldn't it be easier to use 2 thinner boards, say 1 inch, and drill the hole in both. another idea would be to have the one large hole in the back board, and the smaller one (1 3/8") for the neck in the front board. if you're getting smoke allen, you're pushing too fast, at too high a speed (damhik).
    benedictione omnes bene

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Escondido, CA
    Make a template out of 1/2" MDF of the hole size you need. Use a hole saw for that. Rough out your hole in your work piece with a jig saw or scroll saw. Fasten the temple over the rough hole. Hot glue or double sided tape works well for this. Then use a pattern bit (router bit with flush bearing on the top) with the template to smooth the sides of the hole. Don't remove the template but switch to a flush trim bit (bearing on the end of the bit) and coming from the opposite side, flush trim the hole sides. You are limited by the length of the router bits and it is not a 'cheap' solution. But it is smooth with no burning or destruction of the cutters.

    Some say the land of milk and honey; others say the land of fruits and nuts. All together my sort of heaven.

    Power is not taken. It is given. Who have you given yours to? Hmmmm?

    Carol Reed

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Floydada, Tx
    take a hole saw and go thru one side till the pilot pokes out the back then drill from the other side. This will leave a nice clean cut on both sides and you will be able to make a cut in less then ten minutes.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
    That would make an interesting wine rack, no doubt. But, unless you plan to make and sell a lot of those, a Forstner bit that size would be an expensive undertaking.
    I would go with the glue-up layers. That way scrap can be utilized and you can make the rack with alternating color woods for an interesting effect.
    BTW, are all wine bottles created with equal diameters?
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    falcon heights, minnesota
    you have a point there frank. methinks that this design would limit the type of wine bottle to the standard 750 ml that is most commonly sold. the standard bordeaux 750 ml bottle is roughly 2 7/8" in diameter. if you wanted to have different size/style of bottle, one would be better off cutting the smaller hole for the neck size.
    benedictione omnes bene

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Yorktown, Virginia
    Try a band saw. Then use OSS to smooth out the cut?

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